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Anyone have one? I've got examples on everything but that it seems.

If it will be at 19 psi I would for sure do a 3 bar OS.

Heads up your attachments failed.

The canned tunes from those companies are usually not super great.

BTW. You should read about adding a SCIAP sensor. It makes an absolute tremendous difference in driveablity with a magnacharger...

It's possible that timing changed between shifts before but its almost certainly not TM. No GEN 3 I'm aware of has torque management between manual gear shifts.

That is a good question. You can use any map sensor with any OS.

You do loose quite a bit of resolution on these with a 3 bar OS. Considering you are only at 15 psi I might would stay with a...

It doesn't matter if the speedo is accurate in the scanner/ECM unless you are using that to drive a speedometer.

Often the sending units for older trans/cable speedo VSS things.. they aren't the...

i'll bet the return from the regulator is blocked or the regulator is hooked up wrong.

I would only use GM map sensors on this. There are plenty of options.

The aftermarket ones I've had serious issues with. There is a turbo company that sells one for around $40. I've had 3 come...

You really ought to delete the map sensor pid you are using and add "2/3 bar map" in the scanner. I'm assuming this has a 2/3 bar OS on it. If it doesn't it needs it.

A wideband would be helpful...

You won't hurt this setup being too lean.

The drivers side o2 sensor looks suspect. The fueling needs to be gone over.

There is a lot of rough things in that tune. I'd consider starting from scratch. You should be able to find a stock compare file on the repository.

a rich idle will drive the airflow demands for a idle way up.. I'd get the fueling under control before spending too much time on the idle.

only open is used.

Ah its permanent..

Just disregard. It means at one point it set this code. It will likely go away on its own but after lots of drive cycles.

Usually a situation like this is going to be a bad sensor, banging exhaust, sensor loose or too tight.

Very rarely will it be something else like injectors

Knock sensors usually get super sensitive or super dull when they go bad. This could maybe just need a new set of sensors torqued properly.

Try putting all the supercharger Torque management back to stock. You can leave a higher boost limit but the rest.. go back to stock.

This thing is really rich. It likely has air it doesn't need to make it idle rich.. Which is later causing it to pull down the road.

I'm not trying to offend you. Just sharing personal/professional experience.

The PCM not returning to 0% shouldn't have anything to do with it being at 0.7+. Its more that it hasn't returned to...

I wouldn't worry about it.

This is the exact reason why people filter out fast pedal movements when tuning fueling (VE or MAF)

You can get a successful TPS reset way up into the .7v range.

Usually when you see the TPS % get stuck high its because the throttle cable is sticky. Or there are some aftermarket throttle...

You can remove the timer and the RPM delay. They aren't needed. This is a good spot to make a big difference on these.


Adjust the TPS and MAP qualifiers so that it is only getting to PE at...

You will always have a rich/lean tip in or out reading. The engine will be running behind what you already injected. This looks reasonable.

Do you actually feel a hiccup or something?

I lower all the LS3 GMPP 525. I think they are on REV 8 now. This might all be old issues. Who knows.