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I am in no way defending this tune. Could it be better? Of course. Any seasoned tuner would agree. I'm just not into slamming other tuners for their product.

I agree with edcmatt, way too high of an idle for that cam. I would typically set that combo to 800-825 RPM.

I just took a quick look. Tune doesn't look bad IMO. I always give vehicles that I tune a quick check up on the road after the dyno, before I call it good. I can't stand it when idle dips low when...

No reflash should be needed. Just swap sensors and HPFP over, and she should fire right up and be happy.

It should run okay with those mods and a stock calibration. Something else is up. Please elaborate on the situation with this car. Was it demodded? Was it bought at an auction? Etc

I've seen minimum spark set to full ignition timing in some tunes i've opened. Yikes.

You may also want to revisit your minimum spark table. Not enough negative spark in those tables, which is contributing to a very slow return to idle.

I will give you a hint, the fix is in your throttle map. Hope this helps

Unplug the battery for 5 min. Then try again. Should write normally after that

Segment swaps are the way to go, this way even VT and VVE gets easily emulated

Im sure if you post the tune, someone might help and send you a bare minimum tune to get the truck running.

Trust me, just do an L83 or L86 swap and segment swap the PCM. You'll be thankful you did.

Load this up. The 06-07 E38 for whatever reason hates the wheel hop TQ management and almost always interferes once the car is modified. I felt bad, so I also added a better timing table for you to...

Look at map points used on the S197, and tune it like you would tune a GEN 1 Coyote

What type of supercharger? That makes a huge difference.

I usually run 14-16* on 91 octane and about 8 psi for these older 5.9s

You can also try by adding 15-20% to the cranking fuel table in the warm areas.

If you're desperate, run in open loop and lean out the idle areas you want more chop from. Or you can do it the right way and get a higher stall converter.

Post your stock tune and list of mods, and someone may help you.

The TCC button on the VCM scanner had me going for a little while. lol!! I definitely remember that one.

110% agreed. At a certain point, it costs you less to limit certain jobs. Call it cherry picking or whatever, but it keeps your sanity, time and money in check.

I'd absolutely try and do a 320 lph in-tank pump with a one way check valve and a Holley hydramat. That should easily build 60 psi in less than a second, and keep the pressure while cranking.

Post one of your tunes, with the mod list attached, and I am sure someone on here can be blunt and honest enough to tell you if you're ready or not. Regardless of how seasoned you are, something...

Use injector data from a C7 Z06 and edit the fuel pump axis to match the 14% lobe.

I see this more with LT trucks than LT cars for whatever reason. My first "go to" in fixing this issue is the DD table. If "massaging" the DD table doesn't cure the issue, I fix it with the VVE table...