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Last edited by Rare87GT; 03-14-2007 at 02:11 PM.
Post your stock & lastest tune and I'll set up your knock sensors to get rid of the false knock. The V6 car's knock sensor's are way too sensitive.
Russ Kemp
Ok thanks. I'm in the process of getting the HPT program to re-connect to my car, it has been having problems connecting for the past couple weeks. I should have it fixed by the weekend. Thanks!
Back on this subject again..is there a way to desensitize the knock sensors until around 3000rpm. Basically I experience the most false knock around when the car goes into lockup. Basically 40mph and about 1800rpm just cruising. If I have it setup to where I dont see any knock until about 20% throttle that would be good. Any ideas? I will post up my latest tune here later on this afternoon.
Holy crap you haul ass in a 3.4L! Great times!Originally Posted by xonelith
On a 2001, you must have these tables. I'm guessing
Spark control>Spark retard>
1. High load: double the table
2. Knock Retard attack [Base Retard]: (make these numbers smaller to desensitize) I divided by 2. Still had alot of false knock. so then I lowered the number more(maybe 10%).
2002 heads/cam V6 Camaro
what about engine>spark control>spark retard>minimum rpm.
if you change your rpm to 3000 rpm your knock sensor will be disabled until you get to 3000 rpm.
Sure, post your tune. A scan log would help as well.
Russ Kemp
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Last edited by Rare87GT; 03-14-2007 at 02:11 PM.
[QUOTE=Rare87GT]Hey Russ. If you can look at my tune on this thread, let me know what you can do for my knock sensors.
Thanks,
Amir
Looking at your first scan, I don't see any knock retard. But your pe is set to 0% tps, and by having a value of 3.0996 in the Add vs. TPS table, leans the commanded AFR. So 11.6 base afr + 3.0996 = 14.69! The Add vs. TPS table should be 0. You need to log commanded afr, maf hz and your fuel trims. You should delete the dynamic cylinder air pid from the table display.
Russ Kemp
[QUOTE=Russ K]
So you're saying my AFR ratio at WOT is 14.7:1? It shows 12.0 on my Wideband though, is that incorrect? Just trying to make sense of this all before I ask my tuner what's going on.
This table will lean the afr at lower tps%. Shouldn't affect the wot commanded pe. You want the actual & commanded AFR to match, then your fuel trims will be right.
Russ Kemp
I want my AFR ratio to be around 14.7 at cruise I would think. That's why that table is setup like that.
Russ, I was quickly looking through the tune on my moms V6, that thing got tons of knock. What do you adjust to? It is a 1999 Grand Am. If you can post a tune of something similar (if its possible). I dont have the tune in front of me but I can get it later. I just dont recall seeing somewhere in there to desensitize.
edit: Saw you posted about the attack rate. So that table actually determines the knock level at which timing will be pulled, or?
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Mike,
On the V6 cars, I double the decay rate and halve the attack rate to start. You can then increase the decay rate by 10% at at time, and reduce the attack rate by 10% at at time also. Just make sure that there is no audible spark knock. If you zero the attack rate, there will be 0 knock retard. The V6 cars don't need more than 22* max wot spark timing.
Russ Kemp
Thanks Russ
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Yeah, I"m seeing about 8 degrees on my GTP, though I seriously doubt a force inducted car would run 8 degress of KR and not blow itself after 70k miles. I'm going to drop timing a bit and see if it reduces KR or if it stays steady.
Why do you say no more than 22* of max WOT spark timing? N/A cars can usually run higher spark safely than an F/I'ed car. Also, are you saying this based on a certain octane? (though I do tend to agree. My last GP was an N/A model and had an ASE chip. They bumped it up to 28* and I actually saw more KR and worse performance)
The procedure above will not eliminate KR, it will only lessen its effect, both real and false. However, if you desensitize the sensors, you can eliminate false knock but have the full safety effect with real knock.
On my old 2001 3.8L V6, I installed a Knock Desensitizing circuit. It involves adding resistors to the wiring for the knock sensors. It worked great. I went with a 30% reduction and all my false knock went away. If I pushed the timing too far, the KR would return so I knew the system was still working properly. I do not remember where I got the procedure but search the net, its out there.
Last edited by arthansen; 03-28-2007 at 03:33 PM.
2013 Jeep Wrangler JK
3.6 V6
More MODs than Stock
2018 Ram rebel
5.7 Hemi V8
Stock
Sorry to dig up an old post but please review my Log and let me know if the knock I am seeing is normal for a stock 2002 Monte SS with a 3.8
Then only thing that has been done to this car is the Cat was gutted..
Thank you for your time.
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