Dyno Tuning: How to, tips, or tricks? semi-experienced

[christianreid22]

I have street tuned a few vehicles, some WOT tuning with cars that have a wideband installed.

I will be going on a Dyno in a few weeks for my irst attempt at dyno tuning. Can anyone share some pointers/guidance on what to expect? Or How the process works for wot tuning for power?
The cars I will be tuning I have already street tuned and just looking to see if we can make more power, safely.

I read somewhere I can just add 1-2 degrees of spark to WOT tables... run a pull. If the torque increases... then I repeat the process. UNTIL you seek KR or a decrease in torque.. then you back off time timing ro the previous run. Does this sound about the correct method for WOT tuning on a Dyno? I anxiously wait your replies.

[malamri424]

I have street tuned a few vehicles, some WOT tuning with cars that have a wideband installed.

I will be going on a Dyno in a few weeks for my irst attempt at dyno tuning. Can anyone share some pointers/guidance on what to expect? Or How the process works for wot tuning for power?
The cars I will be tuning I have already street tuned and just looking to see if we can make more power, safely.

I read somewhere I can just add 1-2 degrees of spark to WOT tables... run a pull. If the torque increases... then I repeat the process. UNTIL you seek KR or a decrease in torque.. then you back off time timing ro the previous run. Does this sound about the correct method for WOT tuning on a Dyno? I anxiously wait your replies.

I'm no expert by any measure but I did learn that these Hemis go into knock retard without any high knock sensor voltages observed, so some desensitization is needed (i.e. raising the thresholds for knock sensor voltages above which they start pulling timing). A conservative way of doing this is to copy the thresholds of cylinder 2 and paste them onto cylinder 1, because #1 always has its thresholds too sensitive compared to the others.

[PurpleRam]

I have street tuned a few vehicles, some WOT tuning with cars that have a wideband installed.

I will be going on a Dyno in a few weeks for my irst attempt at dyno tuning. Can anyone share some pointers/guidance on what to expect? Or How the process works for wot tuning for power?
The cars I will be tuning I have already street tuned and just looking to see if we can make more power, safely.

I read somewhere I can just add 1-2 degrees of spark to WOT tables... run a pull. If the torque increases... then I repeat the process. UNTIL you seek KR or a decrease in torque.. then you back off time timing ro the previous run. Does this sound about the correct method for WOT tuning on a Dyno? I anxiously wait your replies.

Just my .02 worth and I can't speak for anyone else, but I've found that dyno's are only good for getting you 90% of what you want, it's hard to beat actual real world WOT pulls. I've seen 5.7 hemi(s) want 26* at 90-100KPA on the chassis dyno and slow down at the track, or set off the knock sensors all the way home.....turn Timing back to 22-24 and pick up what was lost.
I'm not saying don't do it, it's good to have chassis pulls to confirm what you have done in a "street tune" Dynos are help full in fueling ,dialing in AFR (to a point) they are also good at telling you that you already have too much..

2* increments is a good approach, add two , no knock and Tq increase , add another 2 check again, sometimes you'll get a 1/2 point of knock retard and an increase in Tq. then you need to find out what caused the knock. in the "real world sometimes these cars/trucks will pull 1/2-5 degrees because the of the shift scheduling.....the ECU/TCm will leave in in 3rd or 4th instead of downshifting to take some of the mechanical load of the engine......Dyno's not going to help with that ,...not unless it elevates....and I know my Dyno Jet did not come with that option...... point I'm trying to make is sometimes the Dyno's best is not street friendly.....just keep that in mind.
Talking NA here , No Boost...No NOS.
5.7s (any G3 displacement with a 3.95 or less bore) they make their best power around 24, there are some exceptions , eagle heads over 12 to 1 can still have detonation even if you don't see knock.
6.1s can take up to 26-28 ...again some exceptions
6.4s with real big boy pistons and Apache/BGE heads can make power up to 28* , OEM pistons I don't trust them in the engine let alone add spark to them. but seriously 26 depending on fuel quality.

The bigger the bore the more timing that CAN be needed to get the job done.
Boost ....more boost less timing.

My 392(4.08X3.75) based 6.1 with tons of work, 35k invested turns 9k+rpms , makes mid 900hp Naturally asperated 15 to 1 Comp, and makes it's best power at 26* all in by 4200RPMs
The Drag Pak 426s were making mid 900s and same thing optimal timing was no greater then 26*

Just my 02 worth ....but Have fun...dynos can be an AWESOME experience, were else can you do a 0-1XX mph pull and not worry about the cops or the Mustang in the lane next to you.

[HaasExp]

1st challenge is making sure the TC or ESP doesn't kick in at all
2nd challenge is making sure the trans doesn't go into limp or the TC doesn't stay unlocked (I like to tweak the tune specifically for the dyno so the TC stays fully locked in the gear of choice eg 4th or whatever is the 1:1).
3rd challenge is to make sure you log everything and pay particular attention to the IATs and ECTs. If you are not keeping these the same, then heatsoak can mess with your measured power especially when it takes a few minutes between pulls to study the datalog, tweak the tune and reflash. Note that elevated IATs could also trigger KR.

[rays04gtx]

1st thing I do no matter what the Dodge/Jeep/Ram, is take table 13512 and 0 it out.
When we're doing Dyno work for ourselves we do 10 pulls, toss out the Highest and the lowest reading pulls , ave the rest....study the logs, make changes and repeat.
I also try and limit any spark modifier to keep it from interfering, What ever the MBT is in my "optimal" Aircharge/MAP pressure range I limit it to 4^ above my target timing #s that way the ECU can't add timing (that much more) over what I want to see 'results from"
Power enrich rate table(44453) gets set to max .5000
I also set the vehicle up to run in open loop.
Record EVERYTHING, IAT,ECT, BARO.

[christianreid22]

1st thing I do no matter what the Dodge/Jeep/Ram, is take table 13512 and 0 it out.
When we're doing Dyno work for ourselves we do 10 pulls, toss out the Highest and the lowest reading pulls , ave the rest....study the logs, make changes and repeat.
I also try and limit any spark modifier to keep it from interfering, What ever the MBT is in my "optimal" Aircharge/MAP pressure range I limit it to 4^ above my target timing #s that way the ECU can't add timing (that much more) over what I want to see 'results from"
Power enrich rate table(44453) gets set to max .5000
I also set the vehicle up to run in open loop.
Record EVERYTHING, IAT,ECT, BARO.

Can you please tell me how I can set the vehicle to only run in open loop? Assuming these changes get reverted when done dyno tuning?

[rays04gtx]

Can you please tell me how I can set the vehicle to only run in open loop? Assuming these changes get reverted when done dyno tuning?

My one kid tells me a I go over board with it.... here's what a 2012 Challenger tune file would like like IF I was going to dyno it, (I think I read some where your working on a 5.7 2012 Challenger)

[christianreid22]

My one kid tells me a I go over board with it.... here's what a 2012 Challenger tune file would like like IF I was going to dyno it, (I think I read some where your working on a 5.7 2012 Challenger)

Thank you for that. I will be working on a few vehicles. I used to have a 2012 5.7… but now I will be tuning my own 2020 6.4 charger.

[christianreid22]

Thank you for that. I will be working on a few vehicles. I used to have a 2012 5.7? but now I will be tuning my own 2020 6.4 charger.

here is my 2020 6.4 stock file that I have mentioned, if it helps. Reid 20 6.4L Stock.hpt

[rays04gtx]

here is my 2020 6.4 stock file that I have mentioned, if it helps. Reid 20 6.4L Stock.hpt

Long weekend I'll look and work something up for tomorrow nite

[rays04gtx]

Da.1(1) is your File set to run in Open loop........this is an OFF ROAD USE only file.
Da.1(2) is your file with a timing curve I've used in the past.......Keep in mind this was used with a +4^ locked VVT gear and a stock SRT392 Manual cam.

[christianreid22]

Da.1(1) is your File set to run in Open loop........this is an OFF ROAD USE only file.
Da.1(2) is your file with a timing curve I've used in the past.......Keep in mind this was used with a +4^ locked VVT gear and a stock SRT392 Manual cam.

WOAH!!! Thank you for taking the time! I appreciate your help for Open Loop control.

I do have a follow uip for you...... Are you sure that 26* of timing is going to work on these hemis? That is a bit scary for me.. seeing as my cammed 5.7 was making out at 24-27 on e85.

[christianreid22]

1st thing I do no matter what the Dodge/Jeep/Ram, is take table 13512 and 0 it out..

What table is 13512? I do not see a search feature to search for a specific table.

[PurpleRam]

WOAH!!! Thank you for taking the time! I appreciate your help for Open Loop control.

I do have a follow uip for you...... Are you sure that 26* of timing is going to work on these hemis? That is a bit scary for me.. seeing as my cammed 5.7 was making out at 24-27 on e85.

The larger bore the more timing, if 24 is where you’re comfortable, then pull back , try 25 , if it works then try 26, the 481 I built earlier this year, made its best power@32. 4.125-4.165 bore g3’s will run as much as 30 na.

[rays04gtx]

What table is 13512? I do not see a search feature to search for a specific table.

Engine>General>Displacement = Table 13512

26* is where I've found the 392s thriving, Fatten it up to about 11.8 to 1 AFR ,and work from there, or run 24 and work up.

when we run my 04 X with the 468 at the track with good fuel and dry air I can run it as high as 32 on 100 oct ......but it's 4.185 bore(.095 larger then the 392's 4.09) 90% of the time I run this one at the track I keep it at 32* max on 100oct, 28 on 93 oct ,and around town I run 24* on 87/89 OCT , it'll make about 700Hp in that "pedestrian"24* mode , 11.10@ 122MPH(weighing in at 4950lbs) is the best run on 89OCT........Make a pass , hook the trailer back up to it and tow the race car home.

[LilSick]

So what?s the trick to getting a converter to flash? 10? that Paramount swapped stators in. Trans is hp70. I?m only seeing 3200

???

[christianreid22]

The larger bore the more timing, if 24 is where you?re comfortable, then pull back , try 25 , if it works then try 26, the 481 I built earlier this year, made its best power@32. 4.125-4.165 bore g3?s will run as much as 30 na.

24* was in a previous vehicle with a cam..

The vehicle I started this thread about is a stock 2020 6.4 charger with hellcat injectors for e85? I noticed the factory tables max me out on pulls around 16*. I am scared to bump it to 24* like both of you have mentioned 🥹

[LilSick]

Why? What could 24 deg on e85 hurt?

[christianreid22]

Why? What could 24 deg on e85 hurt?

I guess it couldn?t! New to tuning the stock cam so I just am not sure on its limits! But after this weekend we?ll find out!

[rays04gtx]

Hp70 I don't have any tricks, the NGC's and the 545 trans I have a few..... and they deal with Pedal Expected table + few others

I have a customer who runs a 04 Ram in a NHRA stock class, he runs a stock converter which OEM stalls around 1500-1600 , we have it stalling at 2200 , Pedal Voltage is 1.2 when staged on the line.
the OEM tune at 1.2 V wants between 40&60% engine power depending on VSS, I set up the Pedal Expected table so it's requesting 30% power at 1.2v and 65%@1.4v across all VSS. and table 35060 is set to inverse as close as possible. Once we have the Power train request values (Id 2710) Tables 36020&36022 (Brake Tq stall) are adjusted to give a little more cushion.

THIS IS A RACE TRUCK built for NHRA stock class, runs a blue printed 5.7 with a stock lift cam duration @ .05 is private figure, that dam stock Intake keeps this truck from running a real good high 11 et , truck weighs 3700(NHRA limit is 3685lbs) +175lbs driver. runs 12.30 on the 12.80 index.

it gets puttered around the pits , and then WOT. repeat till loaded back on trailer, t's Pedal Expected & Power Request table are not suited for a daily or even a weekend cruiser.

I did use those settings on the chassis dyno when we(oldest kid& I ) were trying to dial in the Air tables and TQ/request