New to tuning, need advice
I been doing a lot of research on this forum trying to learn as i go. need somene to just look over and give any advice. BASE_FILE_3.hptDRIVE_11.hpl
2002 silverado, 5.3 lm7, tsp chopacabra cam, ls7 lifters, upgraded oil pump, pushrods, rocker arms, springs.
Get a wideband if you don't have one, you need it to calibrate the MAF and VE tables.
Get larger injectors if you plan to spin this engine much past 5,500rpm at full throttle. I can't view your log but make sure you are logging knock retard, cylinder airmass, injector pulse width avg, fuel trims, o2 sensors and all the things like that.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Why is MAP so low (91kPa KOEO, 88kPa WOT)? Are you at altitude?
Bank 2 is significantly leaner than B1. B2 is at times adding as much as 40% LT+ST, pretty consistently adding around 20% all the time, all while B1 looks relatively normal. This is most likely a mechanical, not tune, issue (dirty injector, exhaust leak). If it is one dirty injector causing that much of a lean condition for the whole bank, you are in the danger zone.
Looking at the tune, it's just not been tuned yet. Stock VE & MAF. Yet injector flow rate was changed in your last edit. This is bad.
I started tweaking the ve table kinda feels like im adj decently
But whatever, I'm sure it'll be fine.Originally Posted by blindsquirrel
As blindsquirrel said, theres a larger issue than what you're trying to adjust - Bank 1 and Bank 2 are waaaay too fudged to be trying to tune other things around it. You are simply adjusting the VE Table for no reason until you fix whatever is leaning out B2
understood, was hoping to kinda fix the issue. seems like i will swap out injectors and see from there. from the part number cant seem to find any info on the ones on the motor. i have an extra set hopefully they help out some.
Take them to an injector place and they can clean/test them for you for a reasonable price
So being off this for a bit did some work. replcaed tranny since the old 245k gave out. also changed fuel filter and changed injectors.
seems like its running somewhat better.
DRIVE_12.hpl
You are logging way too many channels at one time to get accurate data from your logs. You really should scale back to as few as possible to tune the area your currently working on. For this year model I have three separate channel lists that give me the items I need for Idle, Driving and transmission. Logging this many will prevent the data rate from providing enough resolution to spot trouble spots.
That is good to know. For a newbie starting out. Would you be so kind as to share what you think idle & driving channels would be best to make the most of a log file?
Building Automatic Transmissions since 1978
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Lol as if they have injector places in town on the corner or something. Not to be disrespectful but i see a lot off nonshalauntly arrogant misleading advice going on here.
Well now that you're here I'm sure everything will get sorted out in a jiffy. Can't wait to hear what the real problem turns out to be.
You still have something where B2 trims are near double those of B1. And it still has a P0106. Trying to tune it while there are mechanical/electrical issues is like pissing up a rope.
You have something majorly different going on between B1/B2. Whether that's a partially restricted exhaust, or just sensor issues, or something bad/intermittent in the harness, or secondary ignition stuff, no one will be able to figure out except the person who can put hands on the actual hardware and test things.
Change some parts and get rid of the codes. Use the real deal. Something like:
MAP sensor:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1111766&jsn=3
Upstream O2 sensors (replace as pairs):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...991990&jsn=724
Understand.
i have ordered new 02 sensors. i will look into getting a new map sensor. and i will scale back on channels when logging. any advice on which ones are not as important.
It's fine. I prefer more like you have it, personally.
I have been having issues with my setup, mostly idle. Tried switching to the 3.3 Bar Map Sensor now people are telling me the low pressure charachteristics are different from the Standard 3 bar. Makes sense though, have changed o2 sensors, they were fouled, also Denso like the new ones, a little different. Added flex fuel and did the math should be about 59% Ethanol, No difference . It has a lot to do with the cam, you can't just go off some tune posted up out there you have to take into consideration porting, style of intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, fuel injector type, Valve work and cross that over a tune that is kind of close ish. The overall tune over 2500 RPM is the easy part getting it to idle and cruize is the challenge. Watching AFR error chart you should be able to follow the map sensor around and make little tiny changes until the idle decel and startup work together. If anything stands out or there are any codes dont even start changing anything check all the sensor readings plugged in with scanner and if there is a problem verify ground, key 12v and 5 volt reference with a good data sheet on wiring.
need some tips. got my o2s in and also got my wideband. since i have no cats could i delete rear o2 sensors and use of the o2 bungs for my wideband. of course i would use the wideband hardware and wire it up if possible . i looked around but i get mixed info and not sure if i can.
You can delete them. Did you determine the issue with the fuel trim disparity?
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