5.3L - Stage 2 Sloppy Cam - Tune Assistance Needed

[Swiss922]

Fairly new to tuning and my Father and I have LS swapped a (2001) 5.3L into a S10. Have had luck getting it to fire but still learning the software and charting.

Could use some assistance on fuel trims and timing if anyone has some tunes they have done on these before? Motor is fully rebuilt and basically the same motor but with a stage 2 sloppy Elgin came installed.

Have it running and such but was hoping to get some tuning advice on the fuel trims, timing etc from anyone that has done it. I can send the tune file to help pinpoint our issues with it missing and such.

[DodgeZ]

lowbuckls has some good youtube videos on cam tuning

[Swiss922]

Thank you! Ill look it up now.

[DodgeZ]

Thank you! Ill look it up now.

This guy has some good HPtuners stuff too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuq3bDYGrKs

[Tranzman]

I am a retired master-tech and also new to tuning. I purchased an MPVI3 interface last Sept. I originally wanted it for small changes like shft speeds and TCC on/off adjustments, but that changed after I I have a 2000 S10 2.2L VIN 5 to a 5.3L L33 swap in it's tuning stage. I'm using and Elgin E1839P camshaft. I purchased a startup tune, wire harness & P59 PCM frm CPW. It would idle fine until about 170 degrees. Then it would start to surge and die out. when it got all warmed up it surged bad enough that I couldn't drive without 2 footing the pedals. I found rinkrats post on idle tuning very helpful.

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...ght=rinkrat456

I made a bunch of changes and flashed it. It didn't want to accelerate and had to flash back to the original tune. So at that point I just started with flashing 1 or 2 steps at a time. I did end up using the LS6 underspeed/overspeed tables to keep my timing more stable at idle.

It now idles good and I can drive it, now I just need to take the MAF out of the loop and log some VE info. It's my understanding that the MAF does't actually do much under 4K RPM. The log files will let you gain information on your new airflow under 4K. This will be used to smooth out the transition from the table to the MAF at 4K and above.
Timing will need to be worked on after that. I have not reached that point myself. I am almost to the point of just taking it to someone for the final tune work, but i will want to be involved for the knowledge...

[Swiss922]

Thanks alot for the info Tranzman. I found some good printouts online last night and going to apply some changes tonight after work. Going to read up on that link now. Again, thank you!

[IROCMac]

Any update on your tune? I have about the same setup. 2003 5.3/4l60E Combo DBC. Long tube headers, LS6 Intake with rail and injectors.
My base tune ran great prior to cam swap. Fired right up with no issue after the swap. Drove it under its own power from shop to my garage (about 10 miles +/-). Played with the tune in the garage using VCM Special Functions and found that the idle sounds and feels really good at 850 RPM with Spark Advance set to 18.5 degrees of Timing and locking the IAC to 110 step count.
Most of the forums tell me to disable DFCO. I did and i immediately noticed while Idling, it doesn't smell nearly as rich as it did prior.
Outside of that, I haven't done anything to the tune other than "trying" to log LTFT to adjust the VE Table. I got a feeling I'm doing something wrong as all my LTFT values seem a bit extreme. Averaging most around (-16). Applied those values to VE table and notice the chart curve lowered.
Either I'm not understanding this correctly, or my data is skewed. I thought with a cam swap we'd be pulling more air into the engine, which in turn, I would imagine would raise the VE Table as it would see more useable air entering the engine.

Now it has me second guessing myself...

Am I somewhat on the right path of thinking as far as the VE table goes?

Also, does it make sense that Disabling DFCO would alter anything associated with idle?

[horsepowerguru427]

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...uning-write-up
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tricks-373848/
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...e-(w-pictures)

Read up on those, Id probly start with the bottom link and work my way up. If yall are having trouble with VE MAF and idle tuning then those 3 pages should be all you need on a GEN 3.
If you still dont understand how to setup the histograms then go to goat rope garage on youtube and his gen 3 section will give you a visual.

[horsepowerguru427]

Any update on your tune? I have about the same setup. 2003 5.3/4l60E Combo DBC. Long tube headers, LS6 Intake with rail and injectors.
My base tune ran great prior to cam swap. Fired right up with no issue after the swap. Drove it under its own power from shop to my garage (about 10 miles +/-). Played with the tune in the garage using VCM Special Functions and found that the idle sounds and feels really good at 850 RPM with Spark Advance set to 18.5 degrees of Timing and locking the IAC to 110 step count.
Most of the forums tell me to disable DFCO. I did and i immediately noticed while Idling, it doesn't smell nearly as rich as it did prior.
Outside of that, I haven't done anything to the tune other than "trying" to log LTFT to adjust the VE Table. I got a feeling I'm doing something wrong as all my LTFT values seem a bit extreme. Averaging most around (-16). Applied those values to VE table and notice the chart curve lowered.
Either I'm not understanding this correctly, or my data is skewed. I thought with a cam swap we'd be pulling more air into the engine, which in turn, I would imagine would raise the VE Table as it would see more useable air entering the engine.

Now it has me second guessing myself...

Am I somewhat on the right path of thinking as far as the VE table goes?

Also, does it make sense that Disabling DFCO would alter anything associated with idle?

Actually, you need to DFCO, PE, COT, and depending on HOW youre going to tune it there are other things to turn off so there arent fueling changes being made in the background. Adding a larger cam DOES add airflow, but not in ALL AREAS! A big cam is less efficient on the bottom end so your VE will always be less at idle than it was with a stock or smaller cam, thats just the way it is. Click on the link i posted in the other comment (the like that ends with "(with pictures) and itll take you step by step to what you need to do. and remember, idle tuning is mosly done AFTER VE and MAF is correct, same with timing. DO MAF and VE tuning, then move on to the other stuff, albiet, some things will have to be temperarily changed such as Base Idle setting until you get everything smoothed out.