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Thread: 06 300c with cam, no start (springs required?)

  1. #1

    06 300c with cam, no start (springs required?)

    I am tuning a friend's 300c that he put a cam in. It wasn't the best choice of cams to put but nonetheless, I can start it playing with the trottle BUT as soon as I let off car dies immediately.
    Can someone share some pointers or starting areas to address to try and keep it idleing ??

    According to the owner, he only replaced the cam and put 6.1 valve springs in it. When googling the part grind it comes up as a NSR cam.. but cam card states it need springs 26918 from compcams... (SADLY, I JUST NOW REALIZED IT SAYS THIS ON THE CARD)
    Is this why I can't keep the car idling?

    Cam specs:
    214/233 @ .050
    Lobe Seperation 112.0
    110 ICL

    I think the answer may be in the TB Airflow or minimum spark but just not sure.
    06 300C NSR (STARTUP) 2.2.hpt
    06 300C STOCK READ.hpt
    06 300c start up.hpl

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner SultanHassanMasTuning's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Senior Tuner TheMechanic's Avatar
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    When it comes to springs the only issues you can have is to much seat pressure/to much spring. This will wear components excessively. Next is not enough either from incorrect selection, broken, or lost tension from age. This will give you high speed misfires and as it progresses the misfires will happen at lower and lower engine speed. Last is coil bind. This usually ends up bending or breaking valvetrain and either ticking valvetrain noise or worse. I don't think your situation will cause idle issues unless you have a misfire.

  4. #4
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    That cam is only .500" lift
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    don tanklage

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner PurpleRam's Avatar
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    Comp recommends springs only because the exhaust duration is over 210 on that cam, during hi rpm dyno sessions, it would float oem 03-08 5.7 springs, the 09+ 5.7 and 6.1 springs are fine, cam was designed with pre 09 5.7 r/t in mind, , the longer exhaust duration helps the small stock valve. The vvt version works well in the manual trans r/t’s

    Your friend will be ok with with the oem springs as long as he/she doesn?t wing the crap out of it.

    As for idle issue?. The springs shouldn?t be an issue unless one broke, and if it did it would be a pop /back fire type issue
    Last edited by PurpleRam; 03-07-2023 at 01:04 PM.
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by SultanHassanMasTuning View Post
    So this tune had the car idling for about 5 seconds before stalling. ON second attempt, I could keep the car on again with playing with the pedal.
    **I would like to note the O2 sensor voltage for B1S1.. it is only reading .003V. I have already replaced that sensor and still getting that reading? Could that come into play?


    here is two logs if you do not mind reviewing?
    hpt support first try.hpl
    hpt support try 2 throttle flutter.hpl
    Last edited by christianreid22; 03-07-2023 at 05:57 PM.

  7. #7
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    Definitely something going on with that B1S1 O2 sensor. In the first log it basically stays pegged at 1.273V. In the second log it sort of wakes up but then pegs 0.003V.

    The o2 sensor on bank 2 seems to be working ok.

    What brand of sensor did you use when you replaced the bank 1 sensor? IF it's anything other than NTK or genuine Mopar you are going to have a bad time.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by HaasExp View Post
    Definitely something going on with that B1S1 O2 sensor. In the first log it basically stays pegged at 1.273V. In the second log it sort of wakes up but then pegs 0.003V.

    The o2 sensor on bank 2 seems to be working ok.

    What brand of sensor did you use when you replaced the bank 1 sensor? IF it's anything other than NTK or genuine Mopar you are going to have a bad time.
    It is the NTK sensor!!

    So is the consensus there may be a wiring issue? Causing the car not to stay on?

  9. #9
    Advanced Tuner N2speed's Avatar
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    I bet the cam is either off a tooth or a push rod out of place


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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by N2speed View Post
    I bet the cam is either off a tooth or a push rod out of place
    So far, no engine CELs.. the car just won’t stay on.

    @N2SPEED did you see my comment about the O2 sensor?

  11. #11
    Senior Tuner SultanHassanMasTuning's Avatar
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianreid22 View Post
    It is the NTK sensor!!

    So is the consensus there may be a wiring issue? Causing the car not to stay on?
    Either that or the sensor is fubar. Try swapping sensors bank to bank and see if the problem follows or not.