You were right! I?m hitting a wall with the map sensor. I?ve been trying to figure out why I can?t make more than 22 psi of boost. And it turns out that in order to make more than 20psi both TMap and Map ( intake manifold pressure sensor ) needs to be upgraded.Originally Posted by Seishuku
We only upgraded the Manifold Map sensor.
We just placed on order for the second and I will let you know and post the log and power numbers.
Last edited by alsdriftshop; 08-15-2024 at 12:15 PM.
Well even after the upgrade of both map sensor this same results here is a clean run map and log take a look at it.
thank you
Log is still showing MAP topping out around 37PSI, but besides that the only thing that stands out in the log is turbo airflow vs turbo airflow desired... It's a modeled value, so I'm not really sure if that has any bearing on torque management.
And at 20 seconds in on the log it says overboost is detected, though it didn't drastically pull load, but it might be doing something, so you might have to do into Engine Diag. -> Airflow -> Overboost and set those up to disable that. Usually when overboost is detected, it will set a DTC and force into wastegate FMEM (wastegate spring pressure only), but it might not be detecting it for long enough to do that.
To disable overboost, set overboost TIP threshold to max, TIP threshold to max, TIP near saturation to max, and excessive threshold to max.
Something else I would like to try would be playing with pedal position WOT start/end values (ECM 44373 and 44374), maybe try start at 358 and end at 512 and see what happens?
Based on your log, I don't think it will do anything helpful, because your driver demand limit source and torque airload source are both "no limit".
Compare the files. Some of it is redundant.
2017 FORD FOCUS RS 307hp 312torque - Try This.hpt
is this yours?
Here is the results up the Exh inver temp to 3.0 load Max torque to 690, LSPI tables Low to 2.7 in the correct areas High to 3.00 down to 2.5, Nominal to 2.6-2.0 comb stability up the max brake torque to 690, flashed it and than tested. I flashed my tune with no limits and made 303hp 356t but im not happy with my dyno graphs.
2017 FOCUS RS 3032HP 359TORQUE 21 PSI.hpl
2100. 6300RPM RUN 296 356T WHEEL REV 10 test no limit 310hp test run 2.hpl
2100. 6300RPM RUN 296 356T WHEEL REV 10 test no limit 310hp test run1.hpl2100. 6300RPM RUN 296 356T WHEEL REV 10 test no limit 310hp test run1.hpl
There's a lot of things going on here so I just want to point out a few things that may help.
1) Your desired load is clipped at 2.40. You need to move whatever is blocking it in order to get more out of the engine. Your symptom is that the throttle inlet pressure remains at or above target and the throttle is closing to 30-40% in order to maintain the load target. You cannot just look at the fact that the limiters say "No Limit Active" and assume that nothing is clipping you.
2) Pay attention to the pressure delta over the throttle. It's mostly about compressor efficiency, but sometimes you're better off keeping the throttle open with lower TIP desired
3) Spark is stuck at cylinder pressure limits. Is that your intention?
Last edited by Rob@HPTuners; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:01 AM.
1) Your desired load is clipped at 2.40. You need to move whatever is blocking it in order to get more out of the engine. Your symptom is that the throttle inlet pressure remains at or above target and the throttle is closing to 30-40% in order to maintain the load target. You cannot just look at the fact that the limiters say "No Limit Active" and assume that nothing is clipping you.
- What could it be? I know I had tried setting my max load 2.7 even to 3.0. I?ve made sure my TIP is 40.1 psi to target 25-26 max boost. My Outlet Pressure I set it to 26 maybe 27 psi I think. I don?t have limits. If I up the torque in driver on demand i run in to other issues.
I guess I am no longer focus on adding boost. But I need to keep my throttle open just a little more to get a smooth torque curve on the dyno.
2) Pay attention to the pressure delta over the throttle. It's mostly about compressor efficiency, but sometimes you're better off keeping the throttle open with lower TIP desired
- you?re saying that if I lower my desired pressure I might be able to keep my throttle open longer?
But now base on the file I uploaded and the log.
What should I focus on adding to try to get more power. My driver on Demian tables ?
I know I have enough boost probably too much that?s why the throttle body is closing, correct? If I?m not hitting any limits, my throttlebody is closing. This probably means my tour command in my actual work or what I need to up correct I had tried adding an extra 10% on my driver on demand Tour tables, but then I had other issues and the throttle was just close.
3) Spark is stuck at cylinder pressure limits. Is that your intention?
-no, that?s definitely not my intention. Actually, what I did end up doing it?s retarded time on some of the tables thinking that it would take the lowest borderline values and not the cylinder pressure values but I?m guessing there?s another table that is preventing me from doing that. I also went into the retard tab and there max Advance seared out those tables didn?t run. It didn?t make much of a difference so I put back on two more degrees so if I need it more computer could add it.
Unfortunately, this is the first car. I?ve tuned that it?s twerk based. And the owner is letting me use it when he is out of town so I can maximize power on it. He has been kind enough to let me learn and this is the reason why I don?t just wanna switch or make changes Without confirming that it will be OK. I will be getting it back in about a week and I really wanna try now only commanding more tour making sure my Mac tour gets good and probably rescaling some of the tables from 2.4 load to Maybe 3.0 load.
I had tried rescaling the tables before and a previous map, but then I encounter other issues that I had no understanding now I?m learning more. I?m understanding a little bit more but it also very hard when you don?t get much of an answer from other people. I feel some people think I just want someone to tune the car for me, but I really wanna learn and if I had to pay someone to teach me, I would unfortunately not a lot of people want to share knowledge. I paid for the Eco boost tuning course from the tuning school, but there isn?t much information or explanation of what the table was actually do and why they do it. I?ve been learning that as I go. And the video courses and even on the book it says go to this table we add 15%. You don?t wanna hit your limit so I have this limit so I have that limit. Make sure this limit doesn?t hit this and blah blah blah test and check again honestly I don?t think it was a full waste of money, but it really I feel like I?ve learned more reading online from you or even other people that have shared some opinions than the book that I physically have in front of me or the videos that I?ve watched.
I truly do really appreciate you taking the time to answer me and hopefully I can learn more and finally be able to make this thing go even faster. I?m not very happy with the power curve on my dyno or the power. Because of how it?s built, but it?s kicking butt out there And I wanna make it go even faster.
I would forget targeting or adding or focusing on boost in general until you have a torque and load request that is *higher* than your actual torque and load. Otherwise yes, the throttle will close and effectively limit your boost (TIP isn't really an indication of boost, MAP is).
I would raise the cylinder pressure limit spark table if you want more timing and don't want to ride that limiter. It'll clip you.
I see Turbo FMEM and Overboost. It seems like maybe you messed with the WGDC models to try and get more TIP. But as I said, you need to keep desired/actual in close correlation. You may also need to move FMEM airflow limits, I haven't looked too closely at your tune.
As far as things like exhaust temp protection and other models go, when you modify the setup (ie. larger turbocharger) the models typically go to waste and they're not always easy to recalibrate. For example, it's unlikely that most people can recalibrate an exhaust temperature or pressure model without an exhaust temperature or pressure sensor. So, while it may not be the "right" way to do it, many people just want to push these models so far out of the way that they no longer become a concern. An easy way to do this for exhaust temp specifically is to uncheck it in both of the Airlimit Sources Configurations. I would not blindly disable them all though, for example the injector clip will save you if you max out the fuel system.
Ecoboost tuning can be really difficult for a few reasons. For one, the logic changes frequently between years, engines, and platforms, etc. So what works for one person on their car doesn't always work, even on the same car with different operating systems. Two, the logic is intentionally complicated and difficult to wrap your head around. Some of the information you may find or read can be a bit pseudo-scientific or even anecdotal at times. You're going to have to do a lot of guess and check to try and figure out what's getting in your way.
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