I know the basics but would like some more knowledge from experienced tuners on what all i should adjust to get the most MPG out of my 6.7 powerstroke, and if you guys have any insight on the trany side of it too that is greatly appreciated, ik making adjustments on both ends and increase mpg. i've spent days looking for a good thread for economy tuning and cant seem to find one with much information. any help is appreciated
One of the most important things that we need to know is if the truck is on a weight loss or not, as it will impact the way we adjust things. One thing that I would advise on the trans side of things, is that you would want to keep operating RPMs low, meaning low shift points, especially for around town driving. This doesn't mean extreme lugging, but also not hovering near 1800+rpms cruising around town.
I know on the 6.0 Tans and timing have alot to do with it.
I have taken a stock fueled file and added a significant amount of timing and have gained a good amount of MPG Were talking 6-10 degrees of timing in some aspects. May not be the correct way but it was just an experiment. and it worked.
Just like the above comment says though trans shift points low ( not lugging) but low enough to keep you in the bottom of your powerband to keep you going strong.
2003 Ford excursion 6.0 PSD
No limit intake
Straight pipe
Studded
EGR delete
KC billet single plane compressor wheel
Self Tuned
XDP Regulated return
RDP Fuel sump
AEM progressive water meth
Custom suspension air bags
8" lift
35" tires
on a 6l you can gain 4mpg just with ficm tuning alone, 6.7 tuning there is a lot more to it than pw..
You will be hard pressed to gain mileage on a 6.7, It's one of the best stock calibration trucks i've messed with. I've tried up and down to get consistent better milage not just one tank or one trip wonders as that's not real life. Can you gain 1mpg to 2, maybe, but most 6.7 tuners cheat the PW map to have your vehicle's mileage readout read higher. This is not actual better mileage!!! It's just tricking the factory fuel mileage calculation. It works like this, if you are filling cups of water to the top and shutting the faucet off at exactly the right time to not spill any. Let's say on a halfway open faucet it takes 3 seconds to do that. Our pressure is set to half way open, our volume is set to a full cup, and our PW or faucet on time is set for 3 seconds. The factory milage was calculated on filling that cup up because MM3 is a volume, volume over time is fuel milage... If I go into the PW map and set it from 3 seconds to 4 at 50mm3, the cup will now be overflowing, but the truck doesn't know that, it just thinks 4 seconds or 50mm3 is what it needs to fill the cup up. There for milage will be based on a full cup or 50mm3 and not a overflowing cup or new 50mm3 4 second PW. Every little bit of overflow over the cup at 50mm3 is a unknown loss of fuel that's missed by the milage calc. So every time it fires for the new PW of 4 seconds or 50mm3 that's a lost or unaccounted for fuel amount. What also ends up happening is instead of needing the 4 second long, 50mm3, of "over flowing full cup" to maintain speed it actually drops down in the PW map to the new 3 second long or say 40mm3 "actual full cup" area which is now 40MM3 on the new altered PW map. The truck thinks wow I used to need 50mm3 to maintain 70mph now I only need 40mm3! 40mm3 is lower than 50mm3 so the milage readout is miraculously increased! This is where the discrepancy in actual mileage is and why you should only base mileage on miles driven / gallons used.
What are you seeing for mpg currently?
I see about 13.5 city and 16.5highway going 75-80mph. Read out is like 17.5-18.5 on other tuners tunes but actual mileage is exactly the same lol. The best milage I ever got was on a stock truck with stock tires getting around 20mpg actual at 75mph.
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