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Thread: Daytona Coupe TT with 4* NR I can't seem to get rid of

  1. #1

    Daytona Coupe TT with 4* NR I can't seem to get rid of

    I recently redid my charge pipe arrangement due to my crappy design with my MAF too close to everything and a very short run.... I also only had 1 BOV....now have 2 -

    I went through tuning here online back in 2020 with a lot of success (thanks!) - so here I am again - I think I am close.... my MAF curve isn't exactly a curve up top but seems to match what the motor wants.....

    Anyway - long story but I now have a 13inch straight shot at the MAF and about 6 inches behind it until the first bend - let's just say that fixed all the start/idle and drivability issue I was having -

    so I had to retune the MAF for WOT. I am running 10psi - car runs fine seat of the pants.... the logs are showing a 4* NR value and it seems now looking through all my old logs I have always had a little NR... I have about 10000 miles on the setup (motor and turbos - all that is new is the charge pipe)....

    My AFR's are a tick rich right now - I have been sneaking up to my target - now making 2% changes at the top.... but before I make the next change was looking to reach out to anyone out there that might see something I am missing.

    Keep in mind this is a Coyote Control Pack stand alone - no speed sensor or MAP; all it knows it Air and throttle position - The AFR targets are done via the OL Cold table... and that is set to .77 target.

    I did do I timing log for the MAP POints and it is in the Boarderline table MP9 for 90% and MP8 for 10% during the NR..... I was gonna reduce timing in that area next but thought I would ask.....

    thoughts from you all?? And thanks in advance !
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    Last edited by eriktreves; 04-15-2023 at 04:58 PM.

  2. #2
    Well I fixed the bump in the MAF... knock is down to 2* .. still a tick lean in the meat of the curve... going to do more of the same and see if I get another half point richer

  3. #3
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    787
    Your spark timing is super low and the data density/frequency could use improvement. I find when trying to diagnose knock, you should trim down the channel list and speed up the data rate. Also, log borderline and MBT timing, if possible, plus individual cylinder KR if you have it set to per cyl. You might consider setting it to per cyl to see if it's one cylinder or random ones causing knock.

  4. #4
    Well I got the AFR's all nice and safe then worked on the timing a bit - it seemed to react to the timing changes so I have control via the mapped points - basically just pulled timing out until the knock dropped.... I am making a healthy 10 PSI maybe a bit over but I am not logging 10ths... pulls nice and hard - still not running what I would think would be the timing figure I would want - but - I am letting the log tell what the engine likes and not what I think it should do.... my guess is that the 93 octane isn't really 93 and it's still spring - so I am gonna get some fuel additive and see if it cures the last 2* - timing starts in at 22* at the 3000 RPM in 4th - and is at 11 by 7500 - so at 10 PSI on a 11:1 motor - seems ok - I would like to be at 15* but anything over 12 it would start pulling it back anyway.... anyway like I said it is stupid quick in a 2900lbs car... Lost of good info on the forum ... Murfie and Supervee - thanks for posting all those old threads - great reference material!

  5. #5
    it is a ford coyote after all

    2021 Car show.jpg

  6. #6
    well I solved the issue I was having - ended up being the pass side turbo wasn't draining correctly so I add a second scavenge pump so each turbo has its own pump - and after I did that I no knock at all... left the tune alone.