Seafoam will get rid of that carbon if you do the vacuum port method with the engine up to temp. Running a fuel additive continuously isn't normally necessary btw. Just use them every once in a while. I like the TC-W3 method because it's compatible with oxygen sensors, won't break off chucks that can lodge in the rings, and lubricates injectors, fuel pump, valve stems, seats.
Leave OL STFT disabled. O2's don't heat up as quickly without catalytic converters present.
oh ok, what is tc-w3 ?Originally Posted by SiriusC1024
could only find one open spot too mount this wideband gauge but it is not ideal as i would have to look away from the road to view it, and the way my exhaust is set up i had too mount wideband o2 about 2 feet from where the pipes merge instead of the 8 inches i was seeing online.....but there is plenty of pipe behind the o2 sensor so hopefully it will be fine
thumbnail.jpg
o2.jpg
TC-W3 is 2-stroke marine oil.
That's mounted pretty far downstream. Hopefully it stays hot without cycling the heater. See how long it holds up I guess. Looks like there is plenty of room on the y-pipe especially before the merge.
Set the controller to read lambda btw. Verify commanded vs reading when logging.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 05-25-2023 at 07:27 PM.
everything before where i put it is too tightly compacted around the pipe making it impossible to mount it 10 degrees above the horizontal plane, the location i put it was the only open area i could possible weld it in without dropping the exhaust....i hope it works too. waiting for the pro harness from hp before i can finish the wiring. i though lambda was supposed to be easier too glace at and understand the readings, but the guy at jegs said afr was better and something about having too carry around equations in order to use lambda.....what was he talking about, any idea?
Up to you that's why the gauge came with different settings and faceplates.
Stoichiometric for any fuel from methanol to toluene will be 1 for lambda. 14.7:1 reading for ethanol would be actually 9:1.
i have no preference as i have used neither one before, but from what i have read i thought gas was supposed to 14.7:1, what are you talking about 9:1 ?
it will be my luck i'll have exhaust leaks all over the place and this thing won't work right anyway.
Last edited by JR92RS; 05-25-2023 at 09:48 PM.
Natural gas: 17.2
Gasoline: 14.7
Propane: 15.5
Ethanol: 9
Methanol: 6.4
Hydrogen: 34
Diesel: 14.6
question for anyone in the know:
i know the po1 does not support can function, but the aem 30-0300 does, and with the prolink+ is it possible to hook up the
Orange ? CAN High
Yellow ? CAN Low
signal wires into a usb cable then download some type of software that will allow my computer to recognize can signals?
and if not then:
would it be possible to use the blue serial/rs-232 output wire (too usb d+/or vcc pins) and the black power ground (to usb ground/ or d- pin) from the aem 30-0300 to tie into a usb cable to run to computer for a serial connection?
USB-Type-A-Connector-Pinout.jpg
my laptop does not have a db-9 connector, i only have a vga hd-15 connector, 2 usb's 2.0's, 1 usb 3.0, and an hdmi connection
and i'm try to expand my options from just using the analog signals that are subject to interference???
also: the aem 30-0300 wants me to hook the ground wire to the same location the ecm is grounded too on the engine block. this is a delicate little 24awg or thinner wire and i would prefer to keep it inside the car.....can it be spliced into the ecm harness inside the car and if so which pinned ground on ecm would be best (pin number)?
Last edited by JR92RS; 05-27-2023 at 11:00 AM.
You can't do what you're talking about. The serial/usb adapter has a small chip in the connector to convert the signal. I wired the gauge into a female DB9 connector then use a serial-usb adapter to read it. Opt for an adapter with the FTDI chipset.
ok thanks searching now, want to make a harness with a serial option and the analog option
this is what i was looking at, an all in one solution for turning the rs-232 signal from the aem 30-0300 into a signal the laptop will accept through the usb port
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19577386958...Bk9SR8aH7uuLYg
let me know if this would work, if so then i can look for something with the chipset you specified
Yeah that's an option.
This is cleaner and you don't have to worry about the wires coming loose and shorting when not in use:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Chips...s%2C108&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Fem...s%2C111&sr=8-9
agreed, but what is the reason for your specific preference to that chipset, have you used something else in the past that created too much variation with signal conversion?
Compatibility with Windows. Also, the other chipset has a problem with cheap counterfeits.
ok, i found them on ebay as well thanks
ok so until my rs-232 cord and adapter shows up i think i have this aem 30-0300 harness tapped into the prolink+ correctly, with the 2 wires (future use)i'll need for the serial tx output to hook into usb input on laptop. the goal too have an option of hooking up analog or serial signals.(not at the same time of course)
aem red wire - inline 5 amp fuse to switched 12v power
aem black wire leg 1- for ecm ground
aem black wire leg 2- for serial tx ground
aem blue wire- for serial tx positive/signal
aem brown wire analog neg - to black ground wire on prolink+
aem white wire analog pos - to red analog 1 on prolink+
just want to make sure this is correct before i wrap it all up and tuck it away
wide band wiring.jpg
wide band wiring2.jpg
also would there be any need to use the aemnet- /canl or aemnet+ /canh wires too the can lo and can hi on the prolink+???
and which grounds on pcm are safe to tap into pcm ground, or sensor ground?
Last edited by JR92RS; 05-28-2023 at 12:43 PM.
You're on your own with that. I don't use prolink. Just MPVI and get wideband off serial to usb.
i just fired it up, wideband gauge is working, now i just need to test prolink, before reinstalling interior panels
I currently use an AEM with CAN, It has a analog output I use on prolink. Make sure your not using the AEMnet. Works great that way I have an easy hookup with Gen 4/5 and alternate fast hookup with Gen 3. I got a new fully wired pigtail
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post717635
I picked up the fully populated connector from Summit and it worked like a charm.
i used the analog out's on the aem 30-0300 to the prolink+ and i split the ecm ground out from aem for my serial connection when the parts show up allong with the blue serial tx wire.
install done and i even managed to install the usb from the back of the radio into the center console as well (been carrying that pigtail around for years...lol)
finished.jpg
finished2.jpg
now i just need to figure out how to use this thing
Last edited by JR92RS; 05-28-2023 at 07:05 PM.
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