2013 Chevy Camaro ZL1 Spark Plug and tune issues

[thegaddyfamily5]

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Hello GM Fams,

I am currently getting a lot of backfiring throughout my entire time driving the car. I took it to my tuner and he had one of his guys to drive it around with computer reading doing logs but didn't find anything. I just don't believe they checked everything. My Mods will be listed below

- LSA Ported by Kong
- Nick Williams 103 TB
- DSX Tuning flex fuel kit
- DSX Tuning Aux Pump Kit
- Injector Dynamics ID1300-XDS Fuel Injectors
- Mighty Mouse CatchCan
- Kooks Longtube Catless Mid Pipe
- Straight Piped Exhaust
- 2.55 Upper Pulley
- Lower Pulley ATI
- BTR Torque Cam PDS
- Stock Heads

Very Respectfully,

[gtstorey]

Not sure if you are serious or being sarcastic. I’m not an expert on reading spark plugs but my guess is serious mechanical failure.

[Tfoggy]

Serious Mechanical Issues for sure

[Ben Charles]

I’m old and my eyes aren’t too good, but are you running different spark plugs throughout the engine??

Looks like no gap on one pic and it’s best to hell so something is causing that

[blindsquirrel]

Is there a setting in HPT somewhere for 'repair dropped valve'?

If not, there should be.

[GHuggins]

Every one of those plugs have the gaps closed up unless my eyes aren't seeing it right. Looks like somethings really worn or wrong somewhere plus the one has pieces of metal on it.

[2xLS1]

Looks like time to pull the heads at a minimum.

[blindsquirrel]

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[GHuggins]

These engines don't like to be revved over 7000rpms, especially with cams. I've seen them kiss valves right around 7300 even with good springs - I did this on a shop car and didn't realize it until we went to build the motor and found where one piston had indents from contact and I had a pretty good idea when it had happened as it was only revved that high one time - wasn't even misfiring or having problems. You can get away with it once as the pistons in the lsa are pretty soft and will take the brunt of the impact, but if it's repeated - well... On top of that you're running a lot of air from the looks of it on the intake side pushing on the valves. They're also pretty bad for the oil pumps to aerate above 6400 if memory serves and starve the bearings causing them to wipe out. You have what appears to be piston contact on the plugs, plus the extra metal... If things weren't upgraded and then pushed all of this is possible.

I'd just pull the heads, see what you have and go from there. I wonder if you haven't had a bent valve this whole time that finally dropped?

@blindsquirrel - wish I could find that +100hp button

[Alvin]

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That's great!

lol

[PGA2B]

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LOL.

I read the initial post and had to check my Calendar to make sure is it is not April 1 again...

[gtstorey]

Looking at his post history, this has been going on for a couple of months.

[blindsquirrel]

Is there one for 'increase ring end gap'? That would save SO much work. I'm gonna open a support ticket and request it...

[GHuggins]

Looking at his post history, this has been going on for a couple of months.

Yes, I find it hard to believe at this point that the shop didn't know something was happening especially if it was popping all the time - just hadn't seen any follow ups on it, so thought it was possibly fixed.

That's why I pointed out above that I wonder if he hasn't had a bent valve all along that finally snapped. Also why I mentioned the rev and oil pressure stuff.

At this point all he can do is tear down and inspect the damage. Hopefully he won't need a block, but even then he can have liners put in. If it comes to that point - unless he's just sure of a good local machine shop - I would ship the block to lingenfelter and have them do the work. Machine work is of utmost importance for how things turn out.

[Alvin]

Looking at his post history, this has been going on for a couple of months.

look at the logs he posted.. Fuel pressure often going over 95+ psi while on the gas. Injectors stop opening around that high up.. Could have gone lean and nuked it. Unregulated aux fuel pump kit strikes again.

[Capt Chewy]

look at the logs he posted.. Fuel pressure often going over 95+ psi while on the gas. Injectors stop opening around that high up.. Could have gone lean and nuked it. Unregulated aux fuel pump kit strikes again.

ive got a 13 zl1 that close to being put on the road and was researching the best way to get more fuel. How do you make sure the aux pump doesn't strike?

Make sure the reg is set and plumed correctly..??
Use an in-tank pump intstead..?? problems with ficm from power draw
Push stock set up to max and use meth to make up the difference..??

A performace shop i watch on youtube seems to have it figured out but they don't give all the secrets away. They are using a hob switch to activate the aux pump and I would assume they have the reg and return line done right so no real issues.

Edit:
As i post i see the key word in your post. Unregulated

[GHuggins]

Yes, most run a hobb's switch with a return fuel system. This way the pump is providing the extra supply while not cooking the fuel and will raise pressure with boost.

I know this was meant toward Alvin, but that should be close to the answer.

[Capt Chewy]

Yes, most run a hobb's switch with a return fuel system. This way the pump is providing the extra supply while not cooking the fuel and will raise pressure with boost.

I know this was meant toward Alvin, but that should be close to the answer.

And that it is... Thanks

[Alvin]

ive got a 13 zl1 that close to being put on the road and was researching the best way to get more fuel. How do you make sure the aux pump doesn't strike?

Make sure the reg is set and plumed correctly..??
Use an in-tank pump intstead..?? problems with ficm from power draw
Push stock set up to max and use meth to make up the difference..??

A performace shop i watch on youtube seems to have it figured out but they don't give all the secrets away. They are using a hob switch to activate the aux pump and I would assume they have the reg and return line done right so no real issues.

Edit:
As i post i see the key word in your post. Unregulated

I absolutely wouldn't use one. We've stopped doing installs and turn away builds asking for them from now on.

There is a HUGE difference between a second pump coming on with a hobbs switch and going though a regulator to keep pressure inline. The kits i'm referring to have you drill the tank, run a separate pump dead headed into the fuel supply after the regulator and cryptic ?instructions? to modify the FPCM to account when this pump is coming on and off.

Sometimes they will behave reasonably with an automatic car.. They can be total shit shows with a manual.

[pannetron]

Recommend using a boost referenced VaporWorx controller with a CTS-V2 in tank pump module re-fitted with two DW300C pumps -- https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/produ...-fuel-modules/