Hey everyone !
Yet another new guy here asking for help/advice on converter setup on a 4l60e
after days on end of research that contradics the previous material on previous page, not sure how to change the lock tcc safely, for everyday driving?
It seems to be slipping waay too much.
Normal driving seems to be pretty good overall,
but if you downshift and petal it some, it slips quite a bit.
Its a fresh converter. It came from btr as well as the cam.
Beginner w/very little time on software, and even less $, due to some very poor advice given to me, by someone that should have just said-i dont know !
This is my 1st forced air build, and its been a rocky one.
Ive make a few small changes, but havent gotten anywhere, and dont feel safe about it, so i thought id try this route.
Id sure appriecate some advice on how to set it up correctly.
My tune isnt the greatest, but its getting me around at least.
If someone has input on something that looks way off, and has advice on how to improve it, before breaking something, hat would be awesome.
Ive included a log w/what chaanels i thought were appropriate?
As well as the tune file.
Ive been reading for 3 days, but if you cant pronouce the words,
what am i really learning?:lol
Made a few edits under the trans tab to help with converter and transmission life. Also turned off BTM and adjusted throttle entry/exit for wot shifting. VE does not look great but you probably already knew that, nothing major that would kill anything or make for a bad calibration that i noticed.
I will check it out.
And thanks !!!
I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this one.
Without learning from others,
I think mistakes could get pretty expensive and time consuming.
No, no no. Lots of dickery with those trans settings. Think about what you're doing while you're doing it, both of you.
Examples:
- Set full throttle 3-4 shift rpm without changing full throttle 3-4 shift speed?
- Max 96 psi line pressure>set 1-2 shift to max from 360lb-ft up>Untouched Pressure Modifiers?
The 4L60E is a glass transmission in stock form, especially with a LSA strapped to that 5.3. Don't approach this with the MOH BETTAH attitude. There's room for improvement, but keep the limits in mind.
Turn on Spark Retard in Torque Management and fill in Torque Loss %. These tables track across to Torque Reduction vs Torque vs Shift in the transmission section. Should have torque truncation for gear shifts, and having that tabled zeroed means there is none. In fact, with your mods, you should be increasing torque reduction to keep things within the limits of the baby 4L60E.
The torque converter has limits. Don't want to be engaging too early or with too high torque. PE enable set for stall rpm.
Desired shift time. Have to keep room for a shift to happen. Don't take Performance, apply to normal, and divide everything by 2.
This is where I'd start. Engine Torque Management and Trans settings (attached).
Definitely will need to populate the torque management. I would not recommend shifting 3-4 at wot period. I would definitely keep the shift pressure maxed at 96psi in this case, those clutches are not going to hold otherwise. I have a over 220k mile original 4l60e in a silverado with 6.0, cam and stall that has been running max line pressure for many years.
It's a 4L60E not a 4L80E. Shouldn't have hard shifts I'm telling you. 96 psi is too high for the given torque value the way you have it. You're nearly doubling line pressure for 360lb-ft. Those lb-ft labels are coming from somewhere, remember? Yeah, it's supercharged. Again, you gotta think about what you're doing while you do it. What stock 5.3 is making 500lb-ft? Why even include those high values as part of the tune? Airflow>Torque Model. The model will account for the torque increase if airflow is accurate. Yes I increased line pressure, but it's a reasonable amount. It's for smoother shifting/engagement than factory. Also the higher values are to be on the safe side to account for error in the torque model, as well as expected increased torque transient magnitude.
Take a close look at mine. Don't forget to factor in the offsets. Another thing to look at TCC engagement. Not too low MPH for aftermarket higher stall TCC shudder, not too high TPS to prevent overload of the TCC.
Stock file for comparison.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 06-14-2023 at 06:52 AM.
You are not going to feel the extra psi through a stall. The 60e is only rated for around 360ft-lb so it needs all the help it can get with higher torque to keep the clutches happy. I am not worried about hard parts cracking from stress on a high miles stock 60e. It would be nice if the clutches would at least hold long enough to get through tuning. Therefore i max 96 psi at higher torque values and sometimes lower fmc slightly in the 90-96 column.
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