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Tuner
I'm starting to think that this, besides the actual broken piston/rings, is kind of a blessing in disguise seeing how the bearings look. I think it must have been the fact that I just opened up, wiped down and dropped in the crank, rather than pulling the plugs and cleaning it thoroughly after reading about similar situations. Either that or there was some other debris somewhere in the block that neither I nor the engine guy cleaned. I bought the 'complete engine brush set' and cleaned everything I could get to... Oh well, lesson learned? Got a new set of stock size bearings coming and may wind up sending out the crank for polish if a quick check doesn't show that I can just do it myself. I was honestly surprised at the scratches and that conclusively tells me I missed something somewhere. I an theorizing that maybe the material that caused these scratches may have wound up clogging the first set of lifters, causing the noise from the get go? I will be pulling it apart to replace all the bearings. I know this is a tuner site, but who doesn't like checking out someone else's struggles, mistakes and, of course BROKEN STUFF? 
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Idk about that engine guy. Setting clearances loose and stuff. Block should've been hot tanked after machining anyway. Reason I was asking to see the rod bearings was to tell if the bolts had been torqued properly. Supposed to use a stretch gauge I'm sure you know. Wouldn't surprise me if they were ugga-nugga'd on with an impact. Be sure to mic the crank in multiple spots each journal before sending it for polish. Might just be the camera, but that one with the scoring looks like it doesn't have consistent diameter. Looks thicker on the right.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 11-19-2023 at 07:34 PM.
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Tuner
Well, the engine guy just handled the machine shop interaction, as around here there are very few and far between, so they don't really deal with individuals. He also gave the recommendations on bearings and such. I did the ring filing, piston to rod install, piston/rod to crank, crank, oil pump, oil pan customization (a rubber hammer was involved!), etc. I did follow the rod bolt instructions including the assembly lube and the degree after x kinda stuff. I don't remember what it was off-hand but will need to reinvestigate as I will be removing the rods and crank.
I took it to the 'engine guy' to have the following:
1. Bore 0.060" over
2. line hone, no refitting of main caps was required and the bore was straight
3. decking 0.010"
4. new cam bearings install
5. brass freeze plug install (didn't even need as they were already brass from the factory, he told me as much too, so didn't try to take me here.)
6. Heads clean, check ( I installed the valve springs, seals, etc.)
7. BLOCK CLEANING
I did plasti-gauge as I don't have the equipment for measuring bore, main and rod journals and that stuff. The pattern was even across each of the rod journals and I specifically remember this as I was impressed how far machining had come over the years because when I did my father's 85 Bronco engine (stock 351W, I just replaced the crank after Jiffy Lube 'forgot' to replace the drain plug when my mother took it in for an oil change and she drove it 5 miles home.... What's that obnoxious noise? I guess it's normal... la la la...) and the reman had some inconsistencies across the journals, but none were too tight, so I put it in... and it ran.
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Oh. Well when he said that clearances were set loose what parts were being talked about? I remember you had to run thick oil to get it to hold pressure.
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Tuner
he had me order extra clearance main and rod bearings. If I remember correctly they had like 0.0028" - 0.0030" roughly clearance almost across the board.
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Fucking 3 thousandths on the rods? No wonder. .001 clearance per inch of diameter is a rule of thumb, and that's the loose spec. I'm seeing rod journals are 2.2 inches on your engine, mains are 2.749.
I'd recommend find the GM spec and shoot for the middle. Should be around .0018-.002 on the rods.
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Where is your oil pressure sender located? As far as I know they're typically right at the filter. This puts it immediately downstream of the pump and before the mains. It could be the case that you were good oil pressure, but downstream the pressure was much lower. Remember how you saw hardly any oil coming out of the front lifters when you ran the pump with a drill? Also, the front lifters were the loudest while the engine was running.
If the pressure was bleeding off due to loose clearances, then this could've been the problem since the start.
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Tuner
The sender is at the top of the block behind the intake. It is possible this is the issue the whole time. I could not explain the lifter noise or lack of oiling to the front lifters. I have the whole parts list on the way, so I should be back to 'fixing' again soon. Thanks for all the guidance and input!
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Just take your time and double check. You'll get it done
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Tuner
Still here, just too damn cold to do anything.... Got all the parts and gaskets, just don't have a garage and have about 8" of snow on the ground and a high temp of 28....
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Same. Didn't even feel like being out in it to do an oil change today.
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