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Thread: Tune & Log. Gen VI CBB 1999 Vortec 7400

  1. #261
    Alright... got the following clearances on the mains:
    #1 - 0.0017" - (Spec says 0.0017" - 0.0030") - Can you split sizes on mains? I was considering 0.0010" extra clearance, half (0.0005") for the upper bearing here ( for 0.0022")?
    #2 - 0.0015" - (Spec says 0.0011" - 0.0024")
    #3 - 0.0016" - (Spec says 0.0011" - 0.0024")
    #4 - 0.0015" - (Spec says 0.0011" - 0.0024")
    #5 - 0.0020" - (Spec says 0.0025" - 0.0038") - Ordered 0.001" extra clearance to get to 0.0030" as per factory manual
    Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 09-08-2024 at 06:44 PM.

  2. #262
    Got new extra clearance bearings for rods and undersized for crank mains. This would go a lot quicker without my day job, kid's activities, hospitalization, blood clots AND recent covid!!!!

    #1 - 0.0022" - (Spec says 0.0017" - 0.0030")
    #2 - 0.0015" - (Spec says 0.0011" - 0.0024")
    #3 - 0.0016" - (Spec says 0.0011" - 0.0024")
    #4 - 0.0015" - (Spec says 0.0011" - 0.0024")
    #5 - 0.0032" - (Spec says 0.0025" - 0.0038")

    Ship it! Cam going in shortly...
    Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 09-15-2024 at 06:32 PM.

  3. #263
    Cam is in, crank is in and torqued to spec (105 Ft/Lb) in 3 stages. I also installed the #5 cap o-ring and put a touch of sealer at the edge where the cap ends at the rear main as well. Crank Rotates really nice. Same with the Cam. Cleaning up the cam parts and timing chain/gear and should be installing tomorrow. Then Rods! I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!.

  4. #264
    My daughter hit a curb with the car, still learning how to drive, and learning IN A MANUAL! Had to go swap a tire and didn't get to the build last night, then worked tonight... Time. If anyone figures out how to manufacture it they will be set!

  5. #265
    I hope I live long enough to actually finish getting this thing back together, running and tuned! Icing in the cake would be a successful run from PA to NY towing some stuff! I am going to try to get the pistons in this weekend, connecting rod bearing clearances measured and adjusted, and the deck clearance measured so I can verify the correct head gasket and then start the 'don't have to measure everything and can just start bolting crap together portion till I get to the valvetrain geometry...

  6. #266
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    Looking forward to it, too.

  7. #267
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    color scheem of the motor says it meant to be

  8. #268
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    Yeah it's pretty cool isn't it?

  9. #269
    Mystery Machine.PNG
    Thanks! Didn't get back on it yet, wound up replacing control arms, axles and ball joints on my Wife's Sienna this weekend... sheesh...

  10. #270
    man... OK, trying to get back on this tomorrow! Wound up swapping transmissions (and rear differential) in my kids car because of a bad 3rd/4th grinding noise.... That and my actual job keep butting in line to take all my time!

  11. #271
    Was working on this again last night and trying to get good clearance measurements with Plastigage, but the caps are stubborn to get off once torqued. I was placing the plastigage on the rod side and pulling the rod up with the cap, and then knocking the rod back down to free it up without compressing the plastigage any while doing that. It is tedious and I wound up inadvertently spinning the crank slightly while torquing the bolts. Sheesh... SO gotta start over on that. I don't want to skip or rush this part, so will try to get back on it shortly. I THINK I got a measurement of about 0.0020", and I plan to add a 0.0005" thicker half shell and remeasure. All the journals were basically right on the spec, so I will confirm that it is between 0.0011" and 0.0029" but shooting for about 0.0013" - 0.0017". Going by my cheap ass micrometer and dial indicator, the clearance is about 0.0025", which is still in spec, but I want it on the tighter side this go around.

  12. #272
    Got the pistons in. Soon back to the tuning after I get this back in!

  13. #273
    ShortBlock2.0.jpg

    bottom end done. Ready for heads

    Edit:
    I jumped the gun on this... I have to do some hostage negotiations with the pan as there is some interference with the crank (most likely the rod bolts.). Getting pretty motivated so I don't think this will delay me for too long. I like beating the crap out of stuff with a dead blow mallet, so I am kinda looking forward to some exercise!
    Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:30 PM.

  14. #274
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    Looks good except maybe the lifter bores were overlooked. Can't tell for sure, but it looks like wear grooves especially in #1. When you get the pan on run the oil pump with a drill. While doing this, turn the engine over with a socket and monitor for oil pressure drops.

    Bushings and anti-rotation slots are an option before you get too far along.

  15. #275
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    I'm sure you realize the heads valve train assembly need to be on during the pressure check. You already mentioned putting the heads on, but thought I'd clarify.

  16. #276
    Gonna go get an eyeball on them before I get too far along. I don't recall any concerns when I was disassembling. Honestly this block seemed a good bit better than the one that came out of it. The machine shop guy commented as well on that. BUT I don't want to do this a third time, so gonna double check. Thanks for the heads up.

  17. #277
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    Lot of good info on the subject. I like listening to this guy talk. He did a video about upgrading a Y-block that is interesting, too.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9bFVz_uUC0

  18. #278
    Ok, so what I heard is reassuring as there is a higher tolerance for the roller lifter set. Now, to actually measure stuff is gonna take another minute. I have ALMOST successfully negotiated release conditions for my crank with my oil pan (slight scraping with no pan gasket and torqued down on all 20 bolts. So, if I can clearance it with no gasket, I am figuring I am good with a gasket. I will of course check again with the gasket, but that is where I am aiming. I can work on those lifter bore measurements next. My dial bore gauge kit says 0.7" - 6.0" and the bore is supposed to be at 0.842", SO that SHOULD be measurable by my current kit. Additionally I have a antique Snap-on 0-1" dial micrometer (One owner, me!) and SHOULD be able to check this in house... This weekend is my target weather wise and time wise, HOWEVER I am on-call for my company and will probably be capped at the knees on my personal stuff... So, fingers crossed that doesn't happen! The sad truth, at least for me, is "life happens while you're making plans". OR, "Everyone has a plan till they get punched in the face" - Mike Tyson.

  19. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldpartsnrust View Post
    Ok, so what I heard is reassuring as there is a higher tolerance for the roller lifter set. Now, to actually measure stuff is gonna take another minute. I have ALMOST successfully negotiated release conditions for my crank with my oil pan (slight scraping with no pan gasket and torqued down on all 20 bolts. So, if I can clearance it with no gasket, I am figuring I am good with a gasket. I will of course check again with the gasket, but that is where I am aiming. I can work on those lifter bore measurements next. My dial bore gauge kit says 0.7" - 6.0" and the bore is supposed to be at 0.842", SO that SHOULD be measurable by my current kit. Additionally I have a antique Snap-on 0-1" dial micrometer (One owner, me!) and SHOULD be able to check this in house... This weekend is my target weather wise and time wise, HOWEVER I am on-call for my company and will probably be capped at the knees on my personal stuff... So, fingers crossed that doesn't happen! The sad truth, at least for me, is "life happens while you're making plans". OR, "Everyone has a plan till they get punched in the face" - Mike Tyson.
    Lots of us out here in forum land wishing you good luck brother!! Been watching you for a ...while... now

  20. #280
    Thank you! Getting there,,,, slowly(obviously very slowly)... Latest hurdle, I ran out of gas for tacking the oil pickup on the pump..... off to the welding supply!