Pan installed, oil cooler lines installed. Gonna go try to measure the lifter bores next.
Pan installed, oil cooler lines installed. Gonna go try to measure the lifter bores next.
Ok, getting ready to install the heads and they need a cleaning from sitting in the shed for about a year....I plan to use mineral spirits and am seeing if anyone knows if the hood/umbrella style 454 valve seals are impervious to this or not? I am thinking that since oil is a petroleum product, gas is a petroleum product and mineral spirits are a petroleum product that I will be ok, but any input is appreciated. I have seen stuff grow double its size, dissolve and even get brittle from exposure to an incompatible solvent so am double checking.
So, I decided to test first.... I soaked one in mineral spirits overnight, and I am leaving one in for 2 days.... Want to see if there is any difference. So far the overnight one just seems wet! So that's good news.
So, got the dial bore gauge set up for the lifter bores. I will get out there tomorrow, if not tonight.
DialBoreForLifters.jpg
Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:52 PM.
Obviously I don't know the history of the heads, but a competent person, with the correct tools and parts on hand, can changes out the stem seals in less than a half hour. If they are at all questionable, it's much easier to change them out now than after the first test drive. Soaking them in mineral spirits for an extended time will not do them any favors.
Heads were done at the machine shop for the original build. They have less than 500 miles on them. They have been sitting around my shed for about a year and I am planning to clean them with mineral spirits in a parts washer before reinstalling them. I just didn't want to damage the valve seals by using an incompatible solvent inadvertently. I am soaking other seals that came with an engine gasket kit just to make sure incidental contact won't cause adverse response. So far so good. At most they will get a quick rinse or two and then be dried using a fan.
These are the measurements I got when I set the caliper to 0.842" and set the dial bore gauge up for that exactly:
FRONT 0.0010" 0.0011" 0.0010" 0.0010" 0.0011" 0.0011" 0.0010" 0.0010" REAR
FRONT 0.0010" 0.0011" 0.0014" 0.0010" 0.0010" 0.0014" 0.0011" 0.0010" REAR
Awesome that'll do nicely.
Deck clearance #s coming next. Then, if they are as expected, come the heads.I got the dial indicator to determine TDC, then a straight edge and feeler gauges to get some close numbers. Then I'll see if I can figure a way to use the dial indicator to get true reading. Feeler gauges will cover the precision level I need here though If I can't figure the dial gauge. I think it is expected to be like 0.014" or something like that if I remember...
Also, the valve stem seals seem unaffected by the mineral spirits so I am gonna clean up the heads in the parts cleaner before installing them,,,, again.
Ok, so my parts cleaner is no where near big enough to clean up these things.. So, of course I had to make one that can handle them... Tomorrow it isn't supposed to snow or rain like it did today, so again targeting tomorrow.
Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 1 Week Ago at 12:03 AM.
Confirmed, 0.014" clearance from top of piston to top of deck. Used my dial indicator to find TDC and then put my straight edge across the cylinder and checked with feeler gauges. 0.014" fit under, the 0.015" did not. With the 0.030" head gasket that should yield 0.044" quench, which is right on the high side of acceptable! So starting the head cleaning and reassembly now!
PartsWasher.jpg
Custom 5 Gallon large format parts washer
DriverSideHeadInstall.png
Nice clean block
DriverSideHeadInstalled.png
Driver's side head cleaned up and in place (not torqued down yet)
Basically, PROGRESS!!!
Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 1 Week Ago at 10:35 PM.
Apparently I lost 3 of the smaller head bolts. Ordered a new set which will be here tomorrow. Taking the day off because the weather should be nice before it shuts the place down for a week with cold, rain and overall miserable stuff. Hope to get this thing ready to drop in tomorrow. I will try to do the drill oil pump lifter flow inspection as well. The lifters I got are some GM performance ones that have increased oil flow to the valve rockers. I do know what it looked like before when it was running and there wasn't much at the top at all. Hoping with the tighter clearances allowing better flow and the increased oiling, that the rockers will stay cooler AND QUIETER. This go round seems smoother as well... I guess because it is familiar, but it does seem a bit cleaner, a bit more precise, I dunno.... Just feels better! Fingers crossed.
Did you decide on using the stamped set or rollers?
Comp Cams Magnum Roller tipped that still fit under the stock valve covers for the Vortec L29 is what I have and was planning to use. Pretty sure the excessive oil clearances was the source of all my ills last go round. Plus, I do like the sewing machine sound that I've heard on some. Not like the lifter noise mine had... It's more of a 'purring' noise than a 'noisy' noise, if that makes any sense?
Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 1 Week Ago at 11:26 PM.
Ok, heads back on, lifters in, lifter keeper installed, windage tray in, pushrods in , rockers installed, valves adjusted. Ran a little DeWalt 12V battery powered hand drill and got oil at all of the rockers, the front actually oiled up first, then the rest fell in line. This has the oil cooler in the radiator, so I had to put a hose between the out and in lines to the oil cooler. Full of oil, but I may drain that and fill again before I install it, just because... Definitely replacing the filter before I install it too. Next, take off the stand, install the rear main, the rear cam plug and flywheel, then it goes back in!
Hold on. Do the drill test while monitoring oil pressure. With the pump spinning, roll the engine over by hand at least 2x.
You did the rockers pretty quick this time. Checked the wipe pattern and everything?
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post743333
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 1 Week Ago at 11:30 PM.
So I was doing last minute visual inspection and I saw something concerning in one of the intake valves. It appeared that there was a piece of aluminum or some other kind of metal flake, chip or piece and like there was also some kind of dent or other issue with the intake valve on cylinder #5. WTF??? SO I pulled the head, took the valve spring off and prepared to have to have a new seat or something done. Turns out it was a small piece of foil stuck to the valve sealing face, but it wasn't enough to affect the actual sealing. I had already done a leak check and they all sealed. Just another head gasket, and time, but still on track. Once I get the head back on, I will check the wipe of the rollers over the valve tips to make sure. Checking for a cheap oil pressure gauge but it seemed good and oil got all the way to the top and the front most roller rockers and was flowing out the tip of the pushrod and down the roller rocker.
What am I looking for? any fluctuation or drop?
Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 1 Week Ago at 06:24 PM.
Oil will flow up to the lifters like you saw with as little as a couple PSI of pressure. When you put the gauge on it, your looking for PSI that would mimic the expected cold oil idle rpm PSI. Spin the drill motor at 3 to 4 hundred rpm and you should see the same psi you would expect at idle rpm.
A warning sign would be if you cant get it above 15 or 20 psi or it pegs a 100 psi gauge.
well, with the last go round, there was hardly any oil present at the lifter rockers even running, so to me this so far seems promising.
Last edited by oldpartsnrust; 1 Week Ago at 10:17 PM.
Spin the motor over. Bet it comes up.Originally Posted by oldpartsnrust
Looking for constant pressure.
Amazing how life gets in the way of plans.... Had to fix a leaking axle seal on the kid's car on the last warmish day this stretch, then work. Hoping to get back to it this weekend and get her ready to drop in. Have to re-install the one head, verify the rocker wipes, adjust valves again, install intake, install injectors, install valve cover, hang from hoist for rear main, cam plug and flex plate install, then ready to go! So close I can smell it! Oh, wait, that's the oil that flew out where the oil sender went before I realized it was spewing....
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