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Thread: Which Wideband is right for YOU?

  1. #1
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    Question Which Wideband is right for YOU?

    You want something that is portable that you can take from vehicle to vehicle-The LM-1 & LM-2 from innovate very well might be your wideband of choice...starting at around $340 its a completely portable unit that can easily be hooked up from one car to the next in less than 5 minutes if you already have an extra sensor bung welded into the current exhaust specifically for the wideband sensor. Comes with a display & a simple 2 wire hookup to your MPVI Pro.

    You want an entry level unit that will work well with your MPVI pro-The LC-1 from innovate,plx SM-AFR, AEM, Dynojet or powerdex AFX are probably the best choice for you as they both have a starting price of around $200 & have analog outputs that work great with the MPVI pro unit. Neither come with a separate display like the LM-1 but with the ability to log through HP Tuners scanner there isn't much need for one. These are permenant mount units unless you can make them portable by yourself so these are intended for just your vehicle.

    Comparison of 8 top widebands
    http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...out/index2.php

    http://www.turbocharging.net/temp/wi...magazine_b.pdf -PDF version of the comparison

    Here are some widebands people are using & more info about each.

    www.plxdevices.com
    www.innovatemotorsports.com
    www.aempower.com
    www.widebandcommander.com
    www.ngksparkplugs.com
    www.fjoracing.com
    http://wbo2.com/
    www.wmsracing.com/o2/index.htm
    www.zeitronix.com/
    www.fuelairspark.com/
    www.accel-dfi.com/ProductDetails.aspx?brandId=8&productID=8506767&ma jID=480&minID=4801&selection=1&minselection=0
    www.holley.com/types/Commander%20950%20Wide%20Band%20O2%20Upgrade%20Kit .asp
    Ballenger afr500 Wideband kit
    Special thanks to Viper04af for his help.


    The standard LSU4 wideband sensor can also be found as:
    Bosch Part Number
    Vehicle Part number extra info
    0 258 007 033
    Volvo 2000 C70, 2.3 L & 2.4 L turbo. Bosch USA #17033
    0 258 007 036
    Volvo 1999 S80 T6 (Front) Bosch USA #17036, (Info from Alex Neckas).
    0 258 007 044
    Porsche Carrera 911 GT3 part # 996-606-168-01
    0 258 006 047
    Volvo 1999 S70 2.4T. Volvo part 91 25 547 (possibly the same as Volvo part 94 54 597 used on first generation S80 2.4T and T5).
    0 258 007 053,
    0 258 007 054
    VW 2000 Beetle 1.8 turbo. , Bosch USA #17053.
    0 258 007 057,
    0 258 007 058
    VW1.8T and 2.8L VR6 Golf, Jetta and Turbo Beetle, VW part # 021-906-262-B, (AWW & AFP motors only) Bosch US part # 17014
    0 258 006 065
    GM Cadillac Catera. GM part number 919-8809. Saturn part number 24450850. Same part as the 0 258 006 066 below, but different cable length

    0 258 006 066
    Bosch LSU 4 sensor - sold by Tech Edge - AU$150
    0 258 007 085,
    0 258 007 086
    VW 2.0 L
    0 258 007 090
    Audi 2001 - 2003 A4 1.8T (Front) and VW 2001 Passat 1.8T (Front) (Info from Alex Neckas).
    0 258 007 200
    GM used on some Holden Commodore models (VX, VY, etc.). LSU 4.2 sensor sold by Tech Edge. Upgraded 7 057 sensor.
    0 281 004 028
    BMW part number 13 62 7 793 25. An LSU 4.9 sensor.
    0 258 017 020
    GM Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky - LSU 4.9 sensor (has connector 1 928 404 687) (Info from Banning Cohen 05 Sep '06).
    0 258 017 025
    Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor (has connector 1 928 404 682) sold by Tech Edge -
    0 258 017 036
    BMW N52 6 cylinder engine. LSU 4.9 sensor. (Info from Cameron Freeman 01 Aug '06).



    Info Provided From http://wbo2.com/lsu/
    Last edited by Bill@HPTuners; 11-14-2017 at 10:08 AM.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  2. #2
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    Wideband

    Ty , Bill, I appreciate it. I am really looking fwd to sinking my teeth into this aspect. I haven't really read thru the posts carefully, so this may be a moot question - base line for what I've done vs starting parameter mod
    Car : 99 C5 w/ auto, 3.42, trans has a proloine tq w/ 2K stall, all hardened steel planetatry, clutch packs, etc, variflow, mild blenging of TB, free flow xhaust, lower 160 thermo.

    thnx

    mike

  3. #3
    Potential Tuner EnglandGreen's Avatar
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    Bill, "a simple 2 wire hookup to your MPVI Pro."

    Which 2 wires to which connectors on the MPVI Pro?

    My LM-1 comes with a analog output (3.5mm earphone-style jack) with 3 wires - white, brown and red.

    Exactly which wires connect to exactly where on the MPVI Pro?

    Thanks

    EG

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnglandGreen
    Bill, "a simple 2 wire hookup to your MPVI Pro."

    Which 2 wires to which connectors on the MPVI Pro?

    My LM-1 comes with a analog output (3.5mm earphone-style jack) with 3 wires - white, brown and red.

    Exactly which wires connect to exactly where on the MPVI Pro?

    Thanks

    EG
    1 ground

    1 of the two output wires.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  5. #5
    I am sure it is some where but where do you hook up the second wire?
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  6. #6
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    Some Wideband give you both the ground and the 0v-5v reference, others only provide the 0v-5v reference. You plug those into the side of the Pro interface, slot 1-4 are for input, then you have 2 slots for grounds. Also, check the help files for more in depth info on how to wire up your wideband and configure your scanner to log it properly.

  7. #7
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    http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...out/index2.php

    according to this, the PLX unit appears weak in all regards.
    i was leaning towards it, until i read this.
    i own a cobalt ss s/c, which needs much much tuning, and my silverado ss, which does not. i am undecided if a portable works for me or not, or a full time cobalt wideband. cost is irrelevant, and suggs? i have the pro unit.

  8. #8
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    Check out Daytona Sensors. Multi-million dollar contracts with race teams and big presence with motor bikes. They need to be fast and accurate.

    I use their WEGOII. There are heaps of options like display/no display, cabling etc. They use 2 cables (1x ground, 1 analog output/input) and plugging in to the MVPI is easy:

    Pin1: Analog input
    Pin5: Ground

    http://www.daytona-sensors.com/

  9. #9
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    nice info

  10. #10
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    My LC-1 Only has 6 wires not 7 like everyone else posts? I have no green wire !!
    ***UPDATE***
    This is for the new wiring for the updated 6 wire ver of the LC-1

    Red - 12v+ wired to inline 10 amp fuse to swiched ign
    Blue - 12v(-) best place to wire is to the (-) battery terminal
    Brown - wired to pin 1 of the HPT EIO device
    Yellow - cap if not needing or wire to aftermarket AFR gauge
    White - wired to car chasse ground - (there are 2 nice locations under the stering colum on F-Bodies
    Black - wired to LED and push button for cal purposes and wired to car chasse for ground.

    Hope this helps other LC-1 users.
    Last edited by bigboykilroy; 09-05-2007 at 12:28 PM.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboykilroy
    My LC-1 Only has 6 wires not 7 like everyone else posts? I have no green wire !!
    ***UPDATE***
    This is for the new wiring for the updated 6 wire ver of the LC-1

    Red - 12v+ wired to inline 10 amp fuse to swiched ign
    Blue - 12v(-) best place to wire is to the (-) battery terminal
    Brown - wired to pin 1 of the HPT EIO device
    Yellow - cap if not needing or wire to aftermarket AFR gauge
    White - wired to car chasse ground - (there are 2 nice locations under the stering colum on F-Bodies
    Black - wired to LED and push button for cal purposes and wired to car chasse for ground.

    Hope this helps other LC-1 users.
    My instructions say to use a 5 amp fuse but I would think they would give a max rating instead of a minimum rating.
    I believe it also says to wire the grounds close to each other or something like that to reduce the chance of noise between the grounds.

    Here's a copy.

    4. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
    goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
    minimum fuse size of 5A.
    5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source and
    although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate
    from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise. Optimally, these (and any other MTS
    device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this
    isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple
    lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When
    possible, soldering is always better than crimping.

  12. #12
    Potential Tuner Raptor285's Avatar
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    Can anyone post what is on that Ford site? There is no way I'm subscribing to that, but I was going to get a PLX until someone said they didn't do very well in that test...
    '97 GTP - VS cam, 1.7's, PB/N*, 3.2" & supporting mods...PLX WB is in

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Raptor285
    Can anyone post what is on that Ford site? There is no way I'm subscribing to that, but I was going to get a PLX until someone said they didn't do very well in that test...
    if you can't get to it here:
    http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...tout/index.php

    Then just search on Google for Wideband Shootout and link to it that way. No signing up needed.

    weird must have had too many hits. I can only see page one and not two w/o signing up.
    Last edited by IndeedSS; 10-14-2007 at 04:25 PM.

  14. #14
    Advanced Tuner eficalibrator's Avatar
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    Take that "test" with more than just a grain of salt. Their testing methods (from an engineering perspective) were appalling at best, and borderline misleading and deceptive. The Innovate was the only unit that had the benefit of a digital link. Further, just dangling the sensor near the open bottle is NOT how we use calibration gases in the engineering community!

    Caveat Emptor.

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  16. #16
    Advanced Tuner johnh's Avatar
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    but I was going to get a PLX until someone said they didn't do very well in that test...
    I have one here brand new...I hope it works ok!

    --but if you read the article they do state that PLX told them they didn't wire it up properly. And as Greg points out, their testing methodology wasn't exactly "air-tight"... So just like everything else YMMV...
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  17. #17
    Senior Tuner 5_Liter_Eater's Avatar
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    Having free air calibration capability is a good thing to have IMO. The AEM lacks this and my readings have become inaccurate.
    Bill Winters

    Former owner/builder/tuner of the FarmVette
    Out of the LSx tuning game

  18. #18
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    I am new here and just got my MPVI Pro. Looking for a wide band sensor that will work with MPVI Pro but don't want to buy a complete widband/data logger like LM1.

    What are my options? Any part# is appreciated.

    Will this work?
    http://www.plxdevices.com/products/sm/afr/
    Last edited by bluecamaroz28; 05-13-2008 at 01:09 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluecamaroz28
    I am new here and just got my MPVI Pro. Looking for a wide band sensor that will work with MPVI Pro but don't want to buy a complete widband/data logger like LM1.

    What are my options? Any part# is appreciated.

    Will this work?
    http://www.plxdevices.com/products/sm/afr/
    PLX, easy to hook up and works, OR the AEM
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  20. #20
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    has anyone used the Autometer Cobalt Series Wideband?