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Thread: 2011 cts-v trying to improve mpg

  1. #1

    2011 cts-v trying to improve mpg

    Hey guys so i have a 2011 cadillac ctsv auto and im trying to improve my mpg as i daily the car about 120 miles a day. So i have a couple questions.
    also i know tune says flex fuel enable i am strictly asking in regards of 91 pump gas as i ahve not put e85 in the car yet nor do i plan to daily it on e85 any time soon

    1. some people have told me im not running much ignition timing in low rpm/low load areas. would this improve mpg? and if so up to what cyl. airmass would i want to advance it?

    2. going down the road my wideband hovers 13.9 to 14.1 can the car be dialed in better for mpg gains without giving up any safety margin? could the tuner have left it a little rich for safety?
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  2. #2
    Tuner BigTuner's Avatar
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    I can't look at the tune right now. When cruising you should be at 14.7 in closed loop, to get the numbers you are getting either your tuner has forced the car into open loop at all times or something else is up. Fixing this may help a bit but in general unless something is very wrong its hard to find much fuel efficiency in a tune. E.g. if you lean things out you lose torque and end up requiring more throttle to make up for it and end up back where you were. If your timing is stock or close to stock in the cruising areas there won't be much to be found here either, its possible your tuner pulled a bunch of timing out attempting a burble tune or some such junk. What MPG are you averaging, car isn't exactly fuel efficient, but if you are getting 9mpg maybe we can help, if you are getting somewhere close to factory numbers you may not be able to find much.
    Last edited by BigTuner; 08-08-2023 at 01:05 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner TheMechanic's Avatar
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    On cruise, light cruise I have played with AFR's as high as 15.5 without noticing any issues. Plugs come out nice and clean, no misfires, no problems. That is pump E10 max E content. Play around. As long as it does not knock and you don't mind at most minor surging you can eek out some pretty good numbers. Just start at 15 and work you way up until you notice issues and back it down a bit. This is for a MILEAGE TUNE ONLY.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctsv2011 View Post
    Hey guys so i have a 2011 cadillac ctsv auto and im trying to improve my mpg as i daily the car about 120 miles a day. So i have a couple questions.
    also i know tune says flex fuel enable i am strictly asking in regards of 91 pump gas as i ahve not put e85 in the car yet nor do i plan to daily it on e85 any time soon

    1. some people have told me im not running much ignition timing in low rpm/low load areas. would this improve mpg? and if so up to what cyl. airmass would i want to advance it?

    2. going down the road my wideband hovers 13.9 to 14.1 can the car be dialed in better for mpg gains without giving up any safety margin? could the tuner have left it a little rich for safety?
    From .24 and below you are running at about 15ish deg LESS than the stock tune. Even at the .28g row you are approx. 7-10 deg less. I'd definitely increase from .28 and below 4-5 deg and see if you notice a difference. On a different note these cars (regardless of tune) aren't going to be the greatest in the MPG category

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheMechanic View Post
    On cruise, light cruise I have played with AFR's as high as 15.5 without noticing any issues. Plugs come out nice and clean, no misfires, no problems. That is pump E10 max E content. Play around. As long as it does not knock and you don't mind at most minor surging you can eek out some pretty good numbers. Just start at 15 and work you way up until you notice issues and back it down a bit. This is for a MILEAGE TUNE ONLY.
    He's running a CL tune....can't adjust the 14.7 number that the NB O2s target

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctsv2011 View Post
    Hey guys so i have a 2011 cadillac ctsv auto and im trying to improve my mpg as i daily the car about 120 miles a day. So i have a couple questions.
    also i know tune says flex fuel enable i am strictly asking in regards of 91 pump gas as i ahve not put e85 in the car yet nor do i plan to daily it on e85 any time soon

    1. some people have told me im not running much ignition timing in low rpm/low load areas. would this improve mpg? and if so up to what cyl. airmass would i want to advance it?

    2. going down the road my wideband hovers 13.9 to 14.1 can the car be dialed in better for mpg gains without giving up any safety margin? could the tuner have left it a little rich for safety?
    what are your mods btw? I was looking at your ff spark table and while I know you said you aren't putting E in it there is timing advance in the low load areas. There should actually be timing PULLED in low load areas when running E or E blend. Even though it kind of looks like the tuner was banking on you running E because when you ff spark is added to your HO spark table in light load areas it's still less than your pump gas spark table

    Also, looking at your ff timing (ff spark when added to your HO spark table) looks like you are running pretty high timing on E. Maxes at about 27 deg in the high load areas. Maybe this is fine for the mods that you have, but I just wanted to point that out
    Last edited by sgod1100; 08-08-2023 at 01:57 PM.

  7. #7
    im not getting horrible mileage just wondering if there is anything left on table i could live without a extra mile or 2 per gallon if im giving up safety

    mods are 2.55 pulley makes 10-11 psi of boost and catless exhaust.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctsv2011 View Post
    im not getting horrible mileage just wondering if there is anything left on table i could live without a extra mile or 2 per gallon if im giving up safety

    mods are 2.55 pulley makes 10-11 psi of boost and catless exhaust.
    ok, so you extremely mildly modded. Assuming you aren't running E like you mentioned, then yeah you can add to the low load areas that I mentioned previously. 15 deg LESS than stock is going to have an affect on mileage because you are going to have to load the engine more than if you had the timing closer to stock

  9. #9
    my tuner is really popular not doubting his tune at all but some have said it is a little spicy targeting .82 lambda 12.03 afr and 18 degrees of timing on 91 octane. i do not get any knock retard but would also like to add some saftey margin to tune so its not so much on kill mode as i just rebult my bottom end due to breaking a piston ringland only 400 miles on motor since rebuild first fired it up 3 days ago. 11.5? afr too rich hould i go somewhere in the middle like 11.7? is 18 degrees safe or should i back it off a degree or 2

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctsv2011 View Post
    my tuner is really popular not doubting his tune at all but some have said it is a little spicy targeting .82 lambda 12.03 afr and 18 degrees of timing on 91 octane. i do not get any knock retard but would also like to add some saftey margin to tune so its not so much on kill mode as i just rebult my bottom end due to breaking a piston ringland only 400 miles on motor since rebuild first fired it up 3 days ago. 11.5? afr too rich hould i go somewhere in the middle like 11.7? is 18 degrees safe or should i back it off a degree or 2
    ddtech or Justin white? I'm just guessing...lol. I don't think the pump gas timing is that high at 17 deg and honestly from some of the tuners on here I've talked to 11.8-12.0ish is pretty common even though alot of guys like to run in the low 11s for afr. I have both my pump gas and E PE tables at 11.8 currently fyi. if you were to add E you are topping out at 27 deg which seems high to me from what I've read about other guys and what timing they are running on E.

  11. #11
    lol its one of them. for safety id like to change it to a richer afr just to give the car more safety margin. im not trying to pull that motor out again lol. opened up ring gap to 0.026 top and 0.028 for added safety. so the flex fuel side of tune was already there but the sensor was disabled as my car doesnt have a sensor so im assuming the tuner copy and pasted like his go to ctsv base map and thats how i got some flex fuel stuff into the tune

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctsv2011 View Post
    lol its one of them. for safety id like to change it to a richer afr just to give the car more safety margin. im not trying to pull that motor out again lol. opened up ring gap to 0.026 top and 0.028 for added safety. so the flex fuel side of tune was already there but the sensor was disabled as my car doesnt have a sensor so im assuming the tuner copy and pasted like his go to ctsv base map and thats how i got some flex fuel stuff into the tune
    I can tell by the timing...I'm guessing it's DDtech. Yeah, if you want to richen up to 11.8 it's not going to harm anything. FYI, the FF sensor is still enabled in the tune. Not sure if that will affect anything or not.

    ff sensor.JPG

  13. #13
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    Light throttle/low load, when cylinder filling is poor, it not only will safely tolerate a lot of timing (like 50*-55*), it NEEDS a lot of timing. With nothing higher than 33* in your tables, that thing must be miserable to drive.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    Light throttle/low load, when cylinder filling is poor, it not only will safely tolerate a lot of timing (like 50*-55*), it NEEDS a lot of timing. With nothing higher than 33* in your tables, that thing must be miserable to drive.
    Especially if it's got the factory lsa engine's cam or any cam with overlap as far as that goes. The factory cam acts a lot like a cam with a lot of overlap in this engine due to it's compression. Lots of timing needed in the factory high timing area. Just keep in mind you're on 91, which is usually complete junk, so add in 3 at a time until you find it's happy place.
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    I'm surprised a "popular tuner" would give you that low of timing in the cruising areas....and I wondering why your timing table isn't more like a waterfall slowly falling as load goes up versus falling off a cliff starting at about .44 g
    Last edited by sgod1100; 08-08-2023 at 07:12 PM.

  16. #16
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    Not only the cam, but also 9:1 and intake runners like 3" long.

  17. #17
    It does have the factory cam in it.

    It's not horrible to drive feels pretty normal but like I said I am baying the car I just passed my 500 mile mark after rebuilding the engine.

    So from 0 to what rpm should I add more timing? Like 3000 and lower? Also up to what cyl airmass?

  18. #18
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    I would go back to stock as a starting point, everything up to like .68-.72 cylair. You haven't done anything to the way it runs N/A that would call for yanking 20 degrees of timing out of it at low load.

  19. #19
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    Yeah, like blindsquirrel said, go back to stock in those areas and ask ddtech what type of weed he was smoking while he was working on your tune...lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    I would go back to stock as a starting point, everything up to like .68-.72 cylair. You haven't done anything to the way it runs N/A that would call for yanking 20 degrees of timing out of it at low load.
    only thing i can think of is that ddtech thought he was going to run E...because when you add in the ff spark table it gets the HO spark table close to stock in the light load areas, but the OP specifically said that he wasn't going to run E so not sure what happened there