wideband reading lamba

[Fast4.7]

Ohh its 11:1, that may be why you are seeing a great return with decent vacuum and I have not on the vehicles I tested. I only tried it on 8.5:1 and 9:1 engines that are turbo. There is some pumping loss from the turbine and I believe the low compression makes it hard for fuel molecules to find partners with sufficient kinetic energy in time. Honestly I can't tolerate anything without a turbo anymore. But I am starting to wish I had a 10:1 for the economy these days with the price of fuel. L33 is tempting I think its 9.9:1 and weighs 120lbs less than the anchor in my current daily @ 3000lbs.

I have been considering building a square body S10 Blazer to commute around in and have fun with. If I do it will be a flex fuel LV3 4.3L, 6L80E trans and AWD. I had an 87 S15 Jimmy 4x4 with a 2.8L years ago. It was anemic and a $300 junkyard 3.4L Camaro engine barely made it tolerable for a daily driver.

[Jacog]

should I subtract some from the octane table. i subtracted a bit from the ve but now it shows a bit richer that before.heated iddle.hpl

[kingtal0n]

Make these changes to see if the maf is actually disabled and fix the commanded a/f ratio
When you are at idle and cruise low speed stuff you want to see "Commanded Air Fuel Ratio" higher than 14.5

[kingtal0n]

Also make sure you have a backup of the original tune file. I hope this was common sense for you already. Back it up three times in three places.

This will give you confidence to make larger changes. I feel you are scared to move but with the original file safe you can make big changes to fuel At idle it wont hurt anything worst you can do is foul the plugs.

Make bigger changes to VE table right now to see if the VE table is doing anything. How do you know it is even working? You need to do what it takes to see if the VE table is responding.

Then you can see what sort of changing you need to change the air fuel ratio on the wideband. Then you can shoot for the targets I gave you.

[kingtal0n]

I went ahead and wrote your PE mode tables be careful to copy every single cell I changed everything
Careful not to put negative values into any of these tables. Everything is a positive number.

[promobass]

Friends, tell me. I have eam 30-0300 wideband. If my sensor fails, can I replace it with any other 4.9 sensor?
like the old 30-4110...

[phuz]

Friends, tell me. I have eam 30-0300 wideband. If my sensor fails, can I replace it with any other 4.9 sensor?
like the old 30-4110...

As long as it's the same 4.9 sensor, yes. Don't cheap out on some $30 chinese one, either. Get a proper Bosch.

[promobass]

As long as it's the same 4.9 sensor, yes. Don't cheap out on some $30 chinese one, either. Get a proper Bosch.

thk.

[Jacog]

so i did the changes you told me and this is how it looks likeidle test saturday21.hpl, also i tried moving it a bit to the front and it felt like it wanted to die.

[kingtal0n]

so i did the changes you told me and this is how it looks likeidle test saturday21.hpl, also i tried moving it a bit to the front and it felt like it wanted to die.

When you upload a log you have to upload a tune file. I have no idea what you changed. All I can see is its running lean.

You should start increasing all the values of the VE table to see if they make any difference. First thing is still to figure out if the maf sensor is failed correctly yet.
You are just testing the VE table to see if its working or not.

Your engine seems to have gone from running rich to running lean and you didn't remove any fuel. Very strange. Almost like the fuel pump is dying or clogging a filter. But I am just guessing because I don't see your latest tune file.

What fuel pump is in the tank, I need to know brand, how old, and how hard it is to access the pump and check fuel pressure if needed again.

[ns158sl]

bahhhaah PHD in philosophy talking again. well.. Lets philosophize.

[Jacog]

When you upload a log you have to upload a tune file. I have no idea what you changed. All I can see is its running lean.

You should start increasing all the values of the VE table to see if they make any difference. First thing is still to figure out if the maf sensor is failed correctly yet.
You are just testing the VE table to see if its working or not.

Your engine seems to have gone from running rich to running lean and you didn't remove any fuel. Very strange. Almost like the fuel pump is dying or clogging a filter. But I am just guessing because I don't see your latest tune file.

What fuel pump is in the tank, I need to know brand, how old, and how hard it is to access the pump and check fuel pressure if needed again.

i just change what you told memaf disable try 4 small ve changes 2 torque mang change.hpt i got a 340 lph aem fuel pump

[kingtal0n]

Okay I think I see what is happening. It looks like the VE table may actually be working properly. So lets try this to make everything sort of line up and if it works the way I think it will we can move to next step.


Make those changes, Below I put the OPEN F/A Table changes into an excel spreadsheet so you don't have to type each value, you can copy and paste from excel I think directly into the table.
Just check after you do it that the values match the picture.

EXCEL:
open FA.xlsx

[kingtal0n]

Here are the changes again this time maybe higher quality for you to see easier

closer.jpg

[Jacog]

Here are the changes again this time maybe higher quality for you to see easier

closer.jpg

iddle 10,22,23.hplidle test 10,22.23.hpt I head i bit of nocking

[kingtal0n]

You can make these changes next

new.jpg

It should not be knocking at idle no matter what we do. It is unrelated to the tuning.

Here are some reasons for it to knock at idle that have nothing to do with tuning
1. Bad or old gasoline fuel
2. No oil in the engine or low oil pressure
3. Bad bearings in the engine
4. loose torque converter bolts
5. Loose flexplate or cracked flexplate
6. Bad accessory on the engine
7. Exhaust is rubbing on something


I recommend again that you put a silent exhaust on it because with a loud exhaust you can't hear anything especially knocking until its too late to save some parts

You can make those changes to see if it makes any difference just in case it has bad gas I removed some timing, But that timing table you have is stock original so it should not knock unless you had bad gas.
I assume you do not have a cat converters anymore based on previous videos

[Jacog]

idle test 2 10,22,23.hplidle test tune 2 10,22.23.hpt

[kingtal0n]

Looking much better when cold. Now it should warm up and idle in the 15's around 200*F. Fix the transmission global pressure in this time around also.
progress.jpg

Now let it warm up and then try to drive a little bit slowly. Make sure engine has oil filled and nothing is loose no loose bolts.

Generate a log of driving slowly if its running well. Then we use the log to tune the VE as needed to the targets I specified already. That is when I will make a clear tuning process for you if needed.

Do you see what we did with the open F/A table to fix the cold start a/f ratio?
Did you see how we make the VE table a little leaner for fully warmed up? We make the cold start rich with Open F/A and the warmed up engine leaner with the VE table so far.

I think it has a weird warm up leaning out either because of the injector dead-time is wrong or the fuel is evaporating on the valves for some reason too quickly (could be a boiling time issue). But that doesn't matter right now we fixed it anyways.

[Jacog]

slow test drive.hplidle test tune 3 10,23.23.hpt when i first started the truck it died right after, then on the second start, it felt like it wanted to die at first then it stabilized.

[kingtal0n]

You are doing good. I think it died because the maf is still plugged in so after you upload the tune, it tries to use the maf for a couple seconds before failing the maf and there are 0's all over the maf table.
So lets try this, fill in more of the maf table to see if that fixes the cold start stall problem.
I assume it never died on cold starts before and we didn't change any of the cranking fuel or cranking airflow so this is the only thing I can think of in the tune file related to the cold start.

10-23-23.jpg

How does the transmission feel and shift, how does the engine respond, seems pretty normal? Does the trans shift too soft?

If the transmission feels fairly normal and firm you can make more speed and gears and fill out the log a bit more. If the transmission feels like it could use some more firmness we can work on that first.