test run 9 11,21,23.hpltest tune 9 11,20,23.hpt ok so this the test run. one thinks I'm concern is that the gears idk if their going to fast, also sometimes it feels like it doesn't want to shift to next gear.Originally Posted by kingtal0n
test run 9 11,21,23.hpltest tune 9 11,20,23.hpt ok so this the test run. one thinks I'm concern is that the gears idk if their going to fast, also sometimes it feels like it doesn't want to shift to next gear.
Here are the new changes. Seems like either torque management getting in the way, or low timing causing a misfire, or the fuel pressure is dropping.
So these changes should remove alot of torque management and it will add timing so the engine has some timing for torque. However now that it has timing you need to watch the wideband carefully when you pass 75KPA if the wideband goes lean like anything in the 14's or 15's do not run the engine, you need to fix the fuel pressure first. I can't tell if your fuel pressure is fine from here but after these changes it will reveal the next step.
11-21-23 changes.xlsx
alrtest run 10 11,21,23.hpltest tune 10 11,22,23.hpt so it does feel better now
1. You removed the force motor current from the log so I cant see what the transmission is thinking, need to put those back into the log, there are a couple other things I want to see but we have more pressing matter to attend first
2. Looks like the fuel pressure is dropping as rpms climb during 'wot' , this needs to be investigated immediately and fixed before moving on to make the engine powerful
I made a teaching example so everybody can learn what this looks like and how to spot this issue
novicetraining11-22-23.jpg
Here is what we need to notice
-The injector duty rises appropriately
-The injection on-time in milliseconds is relatively stable and flat as it should be for cylinder fill near peak VE
-The commanded air fuel and actual air fuels are matching quite well early on, but then the air fuel gradually goes lean as rpms rise, way too lean to be realistic VE change or air mass changed
The correct way to move forward is install a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to verify the issue by watching the gauge 'taped to the windshield' while driving to show this issue in real time. Do not put a mechanical fuel pressure or oil pressure gauge inside the vehicle as it can leak and start a mess or fire.
The other issue I see is you are approaching 80% duty cycle by 4000rpm already even though its too rich for now I think this is telling us that the injectors are too small overall besides the point. But one thing at a time.
To recap or summarize you should be watching the wideband feed or 'yellow line' during these runs and pulls and making sure it stays nice and rich. We shot for 11.6's starting out for safety its fine. Our new VE table is hitting that mark perfectly but then the engine leans out as you can see in the yellow line or wideband feed line as rpms rise. We look at injector duty and injection pulse ms to make sure the fuel is being send to the injector command, which it is, so the issue must be with fuel pressure. The only other thing that could cause that is a misfire, but you did not report any misfire or rough running, so I Doubt. Or perhaps the injectors could be so old and worn out maybe they are just not opening properly, but I doubt that as well. Easiest thing moving forward is fuel pressure testing. Mechanical gauge on windshield is the sop routine. Maybe time to re-think your fuel system anyways. I would like to see you install new injectors and a new fuel system with a aeromotive fuel regulator and reference return style system using a vacuum line and regulator under the hood with the fuel pressure set to approx 38psi base fuel pressure and at least 60lb/hr injectors from fuel injector clinic or injector dynamics or an OEM cleaned adequate set as we discussed many times.
Agreed about the fuel system.
D9CF47F7-7B0F-4E9C-9CBA-511AAD80F8EC.jpgD9CF47F7-7B0F-4E9C-9CBA-511AAD80F8EC.jpg would this one work1. You removed the force motor current from the log so I cant see what the transmission is thinking, need to put those back into the log, there are a couple other things I want to see but we have more pressing matter to attend first
2. Looks like the fuel pressure is dropping as rpms climb during 'wot' , this needs to be investigated immediately and fixed before moving on to make the engine powerful
I made a teaching example so everybody can learn what this looks like and how to spot this issue
novicetraining11-22-23.jpg
Here is what we need to notice
-The injector duty rises appropriately
-The injection on-time in milliseconds is relatively stable and flat as it should be for cylinder fill near peak VE
-The commanded air fuel and actual air fuels are matching quite well early on, but then the air fuel gradually goes lean as rpms rise, way too lean to be realistic VE change or air mass changed
The correct way to move forward is install a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to verify the issue by watching the gauge 'taped to the windshield' while driving to show this issue in real time. Do not put a mechanical fuel pressure or oil pressure gauge inside the vehicle as it can leak and start a mess or fire.
The other issue I see is you are approaching 80% duty cycle by 4000rpm already even though its too rich for now I think this is telling us that the injectors are too small overall besides the point. But one thing at a time.
To recap or summarize you should be watching the wideband feed or 'yellow line' during these runs and pulls and making sure it stays nice and rich. We shot for 11.6's starting out for safety its fine. Our new VE table is hitting that mark perfectly but then the engine leans out as you can see in the yellow line or wideband feed line as rpms rise. We look at injector duty and injection pulse ms to make sure the fuel is being send to the injector command, which it is, so the issue must be with fuel pressure. The only other thing that could cause that is a misfire, but you did not report any misfire or rough running, so I Doubt. Or perhaps the injectors could be so old and worn out maybe they are just not opening properly, but I doubt that as well. Easiest thing moving forward is fuel pressure testing. Mechanical gauge on windshield is the sop routine. Maybe time to re-think your fuel system anyways. I would like to see you install new injectors and a new fuel system with a aeromotive fuel regulator and reference return style system using a vacuum line and regulator under the hood with the fuel pressure set to approx 38psi base fuel pressure and at least 60lb/hr injectors from fuel injector clinic or injector dynamics or an OEM cleaned adequate set as we discussed many times.
If I get this one would it just plug in into where I had the old regulator
I dont know where your old regulator is.
You want a regulator under the hood with a return line. I will draw a system schematic when it is time to create the proper system. I will explain how to make the fuel system ideal and robust when it is time.
Your truck may not have a return line, you may need to add a hard return line or a braided hose return line.
If your fuel rail only has 1 inlet and 0 outlets then it is a 'dead head' fuel rail. My rail is the same way.
There are some return style rails and there are dead head rails. You can use either but there is a small slight change to the setting up.
The main thing at this moment is for you to measure the fuel pressure to see if that is really the issue. Confirm the diagnosis. Do not buy or change anything until you confirm diagnosis. Don't get in a rush this is a slow step by step process where each step must be done correctly or you risk wasting time and money. Please check the fuel pressure under load and see if its really dropping. THEN you need to find out why, there is some clog or a problem with the pump or wiring for the pump, the problem needs to be evaluated and resolved BEFORE You start buying parts. Or you may simply spend money and time and have the same problem anyways and not know why still.
On the front of the fuel rail should be a schrader (shraider? shraeder? chraider... tschraider...) valve where you can simply plug a fuel pressure gauge into and watch from the windshield
eBay item number:404343031409
Its a $23 gauge very easy to do connect done easily although may need some extension to reach, look carefully how can it reach or be placed to watch, maybe a camera recording whileyou drive?
Option B is buy a very xpensive high quality fuel pressure gauge like autometer and can be placed inside the vehicle electric monitoring is fine when the gauge is autometer they are calibrated well I think
ok I'm still looking at the gauge stuff, but i whent for an other test drive and i been noticing that the gears shift up to fast and and it stays in 4th gear at very low speeds.test run 11 highway.hpl
You must first verify 100% Accurately that the MPH in the scanner is ACCURATE with realistic MPH using a GPS
The MPH in the scanner is how the transmission shifts part throttle stuff so it will be very 'off' if the MPH is wrong.
If the MPH is correct we can tune the transmission shift points. Verify for me please first before we waste time.
If the MPH is incorrect you need to play with the gear/tire wizard I showed you earlier in the thread. Go take a look at these issues now.
Correct the MPH by adjusting the gear/tire wizard calculations. For example if the MPH is reading too slow you can try putting a larger wheel size in the calculator to make it think the wheel is moving the vehicle farther per revolution.
I'll start getting a fuel system setup description ready for you once we confirm diagnosis on the fuel pressure issue. You are almost there just a little further. Then at the end I will drop all the stand-alone ecu stuff and focus more on teaching if you still want to learn over time and where to go from here.
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