WB Maf Tuning ... Questions/Logs

[domestic rice]

I just want to tell everyone here that this is a great post. I have picked up a lot of good info here. DH you are a step a head of me with this tuning. Just about every question I have you ask about 3 weeks prior. So keep breaking the ground for me brother!!

I do have one question using this method though. Unlike DH I dont have a seperate bung welded in, I just put mine in the front passenger 02. With the closed loop disabled I will follow the same advice you guys have been giving him. What about when that and my WOT are good, and I turn back on my trims and put my stock 02 back in. Is that going to mess up everything I just tuned?

Thanks again for the good info guys

[2000C-5]

I just want to tell everyone here that this is a great post. I have picked up a lot of good info here. DH you are a step a head of me with this tuning. Just about every question I have you ask about 3 weeks prior. So keep breaking the ground for me brother!!

I do have one question using this method though. Unlike DH I dont have a seperate bung welded in, I just put mine in the front passenger 02. With the closed loop disabled I will follow the same advice you guys have been giving him. What about when that and my WOT are good, and I turn back on my trims and put my stock 02 back in. Is that going to mess up everything I just tuned?

Thanks again for the good info guys

Nope, because you aren't using your O2s while you are tuning anyway. When you do go back to closed loop, I would reset the fuel trims because they will be remembered for the tune you had prior to you tuning it.

[Dirty Howie]

I'm going to do some last MAF tuning in this recent warmer weather tomarrow and then call it a day. AND post some logs.

I will renable closed loop, DFCO and reset fuel trims.

Do I leave OLFA at stoich or reset to what it was previously????


DH

[EC_Tune]

You will probably be happiest adjusting it back to near stock. However as long as you have the wideband in there, do some startup AFR logs and see if the AFR is reasonable when cold. Just remember to leave the key on for at least 45 seconds before starting, and start logging before you crank the motor. Then post em up...

[MMGT1]

Hopefully not a silly question, but why leave the key in the on position for 45 sec before you start it? Just curious

[5_Liter_Eater]

Hopefully not a silly question, but why leave the key in the on position for 45 sec before you start it? Just curious

I think to get the O2's heated up.

[5_Liter_Eater]

I have a question about OLFA on my LS2. The stock values in my Open Loop Gas (Gear) are all 10's! I have them set to 1 but why would you want your open loop EQ ratio different than stoich?

[Dirty Howie]

You will probably be happiest adjusting it back to near stock. However as long as you have the wideband in there, do some startup AFR logs and see if the AFR is reasonable when cold. Just remember to leave the key on for at least 45 seconds before starting, and start logging before you crank the motor. Then post em up...

Thanks Doug

I will do this probably on teusday.

Do I need anything special in the config file???


DH

[Dirty Howie]

Okay......I did some final maf tuning this weekend. I was waiting for the temps to get into the 80's as I usually get lots of pinging then even if it doesn't show up as KR.

Below are some of the logs and the final tuned maf. I know (Russ )the top end is not extrapolated but I never get there anyways.

I had no ping or KR in any of these runs. There is some fwy 4th to 3rd which I always used to get pinging, WOT in 2nd and in the last one there is a 0-119mph in 11.26 seconds.

The AFR is below the commanded so that the pinging would stop. I'm sure I should have left the actual AFR in line with the commanded as in tune 11 and 12 above but wasn't sure how to do it. Besides I can always go back and do it that way if you guys beat up on me too much.

Just going to log to and from work tomarrow and then set things back.

*****There are some WOT sessions where I get an initial spike down in timing then quickly back to my normal 20.5*. If anyone can shed some light on why this is I would be happy to listen


DH

[Russ K]

As for the timing drop when you first hit the throttle, remove some burst knock (halve the - spark retard values) to start. On my car, I zeroed the burst knock table. This table is used to help prevent spark knock when tipping the throttle above a certain rate.

You could log burst knock to check how much timing is being pulled.

Russ Kemp

[EC_Tune]

I have a question about OLFA on my LS2. The stock values in my Open Loop Gas (Gear) are all 10's! I have them set to 1 but why would you want your open loop EQ ratio different than stoich?

The Gen IV motors have a different way of calculating AFR. You take all the OL tables and multiply them together to get the Commanded AFR. Chris is working on something for the IVT Gain table so you can see where you are on it.

BTW: IVT=Intake Valve Temperature. It's obviously a calculation that GM came up with as there are no sensors on the valve.

[Dirty Howie]

As for the timing drop when you first hit the throttle, remove some burst knock (halve the - spark retard values) to start. On my car, I zeroed the burst knock table. This table is used to help prevent spark knock when tipping the throttle above a certain rate.

You could log burst knock to check how much timing is being pulled.

Russ Kemp

I will go see if I can find the burst knock table. I will just zero it out because the timing seems to want to go right to the baseline of 20.5. Also I seem to see this mostly when on freeway and punch it....no when easing into the throttle, so I'm sure you are correct.

I will log burst knock if it doesn't go away.

How does my AFR look to you in WOT?? I was pretty jazed not to have any ping when going WOT on the freeway when the temps were 86*......I think my car wants 12.5 - 12.8 AFR.

Thanks


DH

[domestic rice]

Hey DH did you have to calibrate your plx? I just went for a drive after following all the instructions above and got -31 for my err% and my afr never left 10.09. Not sure what I did wrong, though the PLX was just a plug and play type.

[Dirty Howie]

Hey DH did you have to calibrate your plx? I just went for a drive after following all the instructions above and got -31 for my err% and my afr never left 10.09. Not sure what I did wrong, though the PLX was just a plug and play type.

No calibration necessary. I would call PLX ...... they have great support and will figure out if you wired it wrong or maybe unit is bad.


DH

[Dirty Howie]

I will go see if I can find the burst knock table. I will just zero it out because the timing seems to want to go right to the baseline of 20.5. Also I seem to see this mostly when on freeway and punch it....no when easing into the throttle, so I'm sure you are correct.

I will log burst knock if it doesn't go away.

How does my AFR look to you in WOT?? I was pretty jazed not to have any ping when going WOT on the freeway when the temps were 86*......I think my car wants 12.5 - 12.8 AFR.

Thanks

*****Engine>Spark Control>Spark Retard>......there are three tables under Burst Knock.....but I'm not very clear on which one or all three should be zero'd out. Please advise !!!!!!!


DH

[domestic rice]

I called, they think its a problem with HPT. I was told only needed 3 wires hooked up. Hot, Ground (both to cig. lighter), and WB wire. My wires are correct so no clue???

[EC_Tune]

You should be able to select the default PLX Wideband from the EIO section and be good to go.

[Dirty Howie]

Russ:

Which of the three tables under Burst Knock do I adjust ??


Doug:

Why would I go back to stock OLFA table instead of leaving it at 1.0 (14.7). It idles great from hot or cold starts???

Anyone:

I looked at the stock 04 Vette tune and it has STFT disabled as it was in my tune. Should this be on or off.

How about the COT?? It is off on my tune.....I have Kook LT Headers with high flow cats.

Wanting to go back to CL...........


DH

[MMGT1]

Hey howie,
I would leave the COT off unless you have a exhaust temp sensor. If you do you could see just how hot you get under heavy load and set it just above that. If you go back to factory on that one you could really loose your tune if the gasses are too hot(with your mods it probably will be)

[Dirty Howie]

Hey howie,
I would leave the COT off unless you have a exhaust temp sensor. If you do you could see just how hot you get under heavy load and set it just above that. If you go back to factory on that one you could really loose your tune if the gasses are too hot(with your mods it probably will be)

Okay....that makes sense....thanks.

Yea, my exhaust gets hot!!! ..... I have Titanium (Z06) catbacks and they turn PURPLE after a day at the track


DH