6L80 bad slip/flare shifting from 3-4

[TURBOSILVERADO11]

Attachment 137307

This what I mean.. This .40 second shift time (+adders) is what the TCM is going to be shooting for no matter what you do to VT, shift pressures, TM, etc.. If you happen to get it to shift faster its going to learn back down to that 0.40.. Fix the target shift times FIRST. When transmissions are worked like this they will often have a slip-bang shift quality.

Asking for a such a long shift is not good for the transmission and you may have hurt it at this point. It works in a OEM setting at OEM power for comfort. It isn't good for making the parts last.

I didn't change the shift time because it as always shifted at .125 to .175 milliseconds WOT on the data logs.

[Alvin]

I didn't change the shift time because it as always shifted at .125 to .175 milliseconds WOT on the data logs.

The problem is.. it will learn or do whatever it needs to do to get back to the desired shift time. You can trick it into shifting quick with pressure but as it learns.. it will pull the shift back.

These don't work like a 4lXX. Shift time is critical and should be your first change. I hope this makes sense.

[GHuggins]

Which one.. cause that screen shot is the last file I saw you posted. *See the file name at the top of the screen shot* I could be wrong.

I took the tune down. I run the same basic tune with some minor changes in everything from lower hp 14000lb weighted vehicles to 1000hp vehicles. Didn't want it getting out so to speak. There's another guy on here with a high hp twin turbo Tahoe running my trans tune with his not having a single problem plus a few others in here. This gentlemans problem was he was running a big hp build with all of the tm still in play, which was causing enough clutch slip and wear on it's own plus the MAF was un-tuned (yes it's still used in SD tunes for torque model calcs as we've already proven in this very thread) and that threw his torque model off all leading to his 4,5,6 clutch pack being wiped out at light throttle - not enough line pressure to hold. I think with just the first torque model adjustment it helped immensely but it's already too late. Plus things aren't working right for that long then all of a sudden change without something mechanical usually being wrong.

If you like I can put your style of trans adjustments into his for him and he can see if it works? I'm not against it if you want to try it...

[Alvin]

I took the tune down. I run the same basic tune with some minor changes in everything from lower hp 14000lb weighted vehicles to 1000hp vehicles. Didn't want it getting out so to speak. There's another guy on here with a high hp twin turbo Tahoe running my trans tune with his not having a single problem plus a few others in here. This gentlemans problem was he was running a big hp build with all of the tm still in play, which was causing enough clutch slip and wear on it's own plus the MAF was un-tuned (yes it's still used in SD tunes for torque model calcs as we've already proven in this very thread) and that threw his torque model off all leading to his 4,5,6 clutch pack being wiped out at light throttle - not enough line pressure to hold. I think with just the first torque model adjustment it helped immensely but it's already too late. Plus things aren't working right for that long then all of a sudden change without something mechanical usually being wrong.

If you like I can put your style of trans adjustments into his for him and he can see if it works? I'm not against it if you want to try it...

But in post 79 you said you already fix the shift times????


Respectfully, and without the word salad. You don't know my "style of trans adjustments" I saw a clear error in what YOU posted in this thread and likely for the long term cause of his woes.

[GHuggins]

Respectfully, I did and I do... Granted I don't change ALL of the final shift times, but I did change all of his controllers, final desired times, pressures, fluid fills and prefills and tm settings. I've had problems doing just the "final" times in the past mainly with downshifting - did it only like that probably 5 or 7 years ago. I address a lot of it elsewhere now. If yours downshifts and everything how ever the customers want then my hats off to you.

But in post 79 you said you already fix the shift times????


Respectfully, and without the word salad. You don't know my "style of trans adjustments" I saw a clear error in what YOU posted in this thread and likely for the long term cause of his woes.

Wow, so come back after all the post and change your wording so "I'm" to blame for his original trans burning up even though I had nothing to do with it. The childishness here is impressive

I recommend actually going back and looking at his logs. You'll see low torque and clutch slippage, but if it makes you feel better.... He did originally have longer shift times and tm still 100% stock making things worse - the more tm, the more slippage - the more wrong the torque model is - the more slippage - all comes back to things needing to be right. I took care of and am in the process of correcting all of that for this gentleman.

AND for example since you're wanting to point a finger my way and tell me I don't know what I'm talking about, in my tune for a 2-3 final desired I run .29ms at full load and from some of yours, you're running right around .2ms, but none of that really matters as the "other" adders and timing controllers still haven't been put into the equation. You do run a touch less in the inertia settings than I do as well, but again I'm addressing ALL of this elsewhere. I can set mine up to literally downshift AS the throttle is being applied if the customer so wants. You surprisingly don't run much different than I do on shift pressures - was really surprised to see that - in fact the 2-3 is within 20 to 50 kpa in nearly all places. Some of your adaptives however are jacked up substantially vs mine, but those are stock. See I address a lot in the adaptives and inertia settings sections whereas most of yours are left stock. Just seems to make them respond better IMHO. SO, you can say what you like.

[TURBOSILVERADO11]

But in post 79 you said you already fix the shift times????


Respectfully, and without the word salad. You don't know my "style of trans adjustments" I saw a clear error in what is posted in this thread and likely for the long term cause of his woes.

You're looking at the tune that was in there before the tune thats in there now that Greg made all the changes too.

[ns158sl]

Ok I have two questions. I am totally going to try the ratio math pid to see how the trans is actually slipping. Second. Hjtrbo had some sweet drawings that are probably 20 times better than mine so I wont even try lol. If a trans slip pid logs his "third Bad style." What exactly am i looking at? The shift would start as a nice plateau, so almost vertical, then horizontal, but then a ramp. What do you guys see what causes the ramp? Especially if shift times were lowered and adaptives are raised. Actually for this, even assume the torque models are half-ass within reason? Is that where you start adjusting the other bajillion tables related to shifts? I feel like I can improve with the turbine shaft speed timing, but done have a clue. Plus what is that little blip in the middle of the shift?

[TURBOSILVERADO11]

What you describe is classic case of issues you get with aftermarket converters that use flat billet cover, piston and non woven carbon lining. I call it the funky chicken as the computer tries to get the darn thing to slip 20 rpm or so (or 40 when AFM is on) but can't it either locks or unlock. A bottle of Ford XL-3 additive does wonder to help with that, but many times you still have to play with the tune to get it to work properly. Our kit unfortunately does not do anything to help with that problem. It will help things only when using the right lining and regular stamps steel piston with a taper in it. Then it makes for a much nicer and more precise slip control then OE.

Getting ready to yank the trans tonight, this is the right tow, drive, and race kit you where taking about right?Screenshot_20231013_163019_Samsung Internet.jpg

[TransGo Robert]

Getting ready to yank the trans tonight, this is the right tow, drive, and race kit you where taking about right?Screenshot_20231013_163019_Samsung Internet.jpg

Yes

[TURBOSILVERADO11]

Yes

Do you know if any of y'alls dealers has a better price than that? So far that's the best price I've seen, it's been from that $218 up to $300 what I've found so far.

[TransGo Robert]

Do you know if any of y'alls dealers has a better price than that? So far that's the best price I've seen, it's been from that $218 up to $300 what I've found so far.

I am on the tech side of things and also we are the manufacturer, everything is sold by distributors and they set their own price. I guess google is your best friend. Just careful if you find a price that is much cheaper then all others, that's usually a sign that it is a counterfeit kit made overseas and then you won't even make it off the rack with that junk in there. I have not gotten any report of counterfeit TOW&PRO kit yet, but plenty of other ones so watchout. The good old when it sounds to go to be true it is usually because it is too good to be true....

[TURBOSILVERADO11]

I am on the tech side of things and also we are the manufacturer, everything is sold by distributors and they set their own price. I guess google is your best friend. Just careful if you find a price that is much cheaper then all others, that's usually a sign that it is a counterfeit kit made overseas and then you won't even make it off the rack with that junk in there. I have not gotten any report of counterfeit TOW&PRO kit yet, but plenty of other ones so watchout. The good old when it sounds to go to be true it is usually because it is too good to be true....

Yeah, there's one on ebay for $99 bucks. I ain't touching that crap