Cannot do cam crank relearn after cam swap

[gulfcoastauto65]

I did a mild Comp Cams Stage 1 cam (201-300-17) with a COMP Cams 5761 Cam Phaser Kit on a 2010 Dodge Ram 5.7 2WD.
MDS delete- non MDS lifters and solenoid plugs - runs pretty good until my Traction Control light comes on.

When you do a cam swap , Should you be able to do a cam crank relearn? It keeps timing out. And I am having other problems. like running rich and getting a c121 code for torque management. Looking at scan it doesnt look like im a tooth off. Ill post scan when I can. I cant get a good scan because it goes into limp mode because of the c121.
Thanks

[gulfcoastauto65]

can anyone answer the question "should you be able to do a crank relearn after a aftermarket cam swap"?
i.e. have you been able to do it after your cam swap?
thanks

[unicornpower]

I have done the cam crank relearn on every cam change I have done and don't recall running into any issues.

[gulfcoastauto65]

I have done the cam crank relearn on every cam change I have done and don't recall running into any issues.

Ok thank you I believe that tells me what i need to know. I guess im a tooth off
thanks again

[LilSick]

sorry bout that but being this is where you are can you now do everyone here a huge favor???

slap a degree wheel on the crank and a dial on the lifter and determine ECL (with phaser at full adv)

then, after you do your relearn or whatever, post both that number ^^^, and where the log claims the "actual angle" is

thanks a bunch

[gulfcoastauto65]

I will do this . It will be awhile before I can get back on this though. I was going to try not to pull the head. I have a degree wheel and I will get a piston stop. How do I make sure phaser is fully advanced and What is ECL?

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

Check your cam specs on your cam card and see if and/or how much advance is ground into your cam. Then log exhaust cam centerline (ECL) and see what its reading on your scanner before tearing it all apart. Both cams that I have had installed in my Ram had +3 degrees advance ground into them. And my scanner reads 128 for the ECL when timing is set properly with my cam phaser locked which tells me that ECL should be 125 being that I have 3 degrees advance ground into the cam. If you are running a cam phase limiter, I can't say for sure if this would work, but maybe try going into your tune and turning VVT off in your tune and then log exhaust cam centerline and see what its reading. I would at least do that before pulling anything apart and post what your scanner is reading for ECL.

[LilSick]

when timing is set properly

how do you determine that "the cam timing is set properly"?

if the cam position sensor reads within 2 degree accuracy stock (and to me that is a big IF), who knows where it reads with any aftermarket cam???

(without doing what i suggested ^^^)

[gulfcoastauto65]

ok great info. Im actually looking forward to this. Its been my white whale. (truck is white) Customers come first though.

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

I understand what you are saying here, and it would probably be a good idea for somebody to use a degree wheel and indicator to see what ECL is with phaser at full advance and see if the ECL actually matches what the scanner shows it to be. But as far as my post, I didn't say anything about determining if "the cam timing is set properly". His current issue is potentially being off a tooth. And I was just him know that my scanner reads 128 for ECL when "timing is set properly", not cam timing. I was just saying if his timing marks are set properly, the expectation would be that the ECL on his scanner should read 125 if no advance was ground into his cam and 128 if 3 degrees of advance is ground into his cam like many of the aftermarket ones for the 5.7L available. While I'm here posting I'll go ahead and elaborate on this a little further here, and mention that I've come across at least a dozen cases just in Hampton Roads/Southeastern VA where during the cam install, timing was off by a tooth and seems to be somewhat of a local epidemic around here and am becoming to realize that it happens a lot more everywhere than I ever realized. But it's one particular statistic in the 20 plus cases in my area, being the biggest reason why I want to say something pertaining to this issue here on HP Tuners. Every single case where I have brought this mishap to the installer's attention, was off by one tooth and in the exact same direction. So for anyone reading this thread that is reading this right now because they either think that they may be off a tooth with setting their timing marks during a cam install or anyone reading this because they are about to set their timing and don't want to make the same mistake as I had the first time around and so many others have, there is a single piece of information that I wish someone had posted for me to come across before setting my timing chain, and it's this.... when you are setting your chain and are placing the cam sprocket (cam phaser) so that your marked tooth is "at the 12 o'clock position" , the tooth on your phaser where you will later in the process be placing the two consecutive chain links marked with a line your timing chain on each side of this marked tooth...above the cam phaser on the engine block where it comes to a single point, kind of like the peak of a roof of a house... this is NOT your "12'oclock" reference point. You'll find that when you are setting the cam phaser at 12 o'clock, you can either make the 12 o'clock reference just to the left of this point or just to the right of this point...!2 O'clock is to the LEFT OF THE PEAK ABOVE THE CAM PHASER. Hopefully seeing this will save some others from making this mistake. This is likely old news to many but is something that would have saved all those who made this mistake around here anyway. Also, every case where someone was off by one tooth in my area was showing somewhere between 126.5 and 127.5 for exhaust cam centerline when logged on the scanner, for what its worth.

[rays04gtx]

Ok thank you I believe that tells me what i need to know. I guess im a tooth off
thanks again

Turn VVt off and see if it starts.