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Thread: Timing Blips, Shudders at Speed... Caused by What?

  1. #201
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    If you want to try the amped tune to confirm power then you're not going to break it. I didn't hand you a live grenade.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiriusC1024 View Post
    If you want to try the amped tune to confirm power then you're not going to break it. I didn't hand you a live grenade.
    You think it would be worth running a couple 0-60s with each tune to compare? I have a buddy with a Dragy that would likely take that on with me over lunch one day at work, lol.
    Last edited by squeeler642; 01-04-2024 at 09:01 AM.
    2003 Tahoe Z71 - ATK HP93/LQ4 6.0L swap, stock 4L60E (for now), headers, e-fan conversion, and warm air intake on 33" ATs.

  3. #203
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiriusC1024 View Post
    That's fine, ed. Nothing to argue about. I know you've done plenty of them.
    No, and sorry if I'm coming across like we're arguing. I'm trying to pass on knowledge based on experience.

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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    The difference between 20 and 26 degrees in a low compression motor like this is probably 20 hp. You're not going to feel 20 hp. It would show up on a dyno or using a draggy or something like that.

    Mt generalized point is you're throwing a lot of concern where there really shouldn't be. Even at 26 degrees unless it's fuel starved lean it's not at all "edgy".
    I guess I should say, I'm not expecting a monster amount of power from a more-or-less-stock 6.0L swap. I can remember the days with the old and tired 5.3L it had from the factory. Can say confidently that it is a totally different animal, even running the most conservative tune. The original tune I started out with made 320HP/330TQ to the wheels on the dyno when it was tuned... Meaning it's probably making around 400HP at the crank, maybe even more since the truck has 33" all terrains.

    Even 400HP would be essentially a 50% increase over the 285HP the 5.3L made under the most ideal conditions. That is a major... major improvement.
    Last edited by squeeler642; 01-04-2024 at 09:13 AM.
    2003 Tahoe Z71 - ATK HP93/LQ4 6.0L swap, stock 4L60E (for now), headers, e-fan conversion, and warm air intake on 33" ATs.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    No, and sorry if I'm coming across like we're arguing. I'm trying to pass on knowledge based on experience.
    All good. I was saying that to indicate to you that I wasn't trying to get anything going. Hard to judge tone over text sometimes I do appreciate when you come in and check up on stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by squeeler642 View Post
    I guess I should say, I'm not expecting a monster amount of power from a more-or-less-stock 6.0L swap. I can remember the days with the old and tired 5.3L it had from the factory. Can say confidently that it is a totally different animal, even running the most conservative tune.
    How is it running now compared to when we started?

    I'd Seafoam the top end, too. Don't put it in the oil like the bottle says. There's all kinds of catchcans. I run an el-cheapo with brass scrub pad in the bottom to collect droplets. It's mounted to the passenger head with a bracket fab'd in a vice from scrap stainless. Get one that doesn't have a breather, and put it inline with the PCV valve and vacuum port.

  6. #206
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiriusC1024 View Post
    All good. I was saying that to indicate to you that I wasn't trying to get anything going. Hard to judge tone over text sometimes I do appreciate when you come in and check up on stuff.



    How is it running now compared to when we started?

    I'd Seafoam the top end, too. Don't put it in the oil like the bottle says. There's all kinds of catchcans. I run an el-cheapo with brass scrub pad in the bottom to collect droplets. It's mounted to the passenger head with a bracket fab'd in a vice from scrap stainless. Get one that doesn't have a breather, and put it inline with the PCV valve and vacuum port.
    Yep. Best way is to suck it into a small vacuum orifice as close to the throttle body as possible so you get a good cleaning of the intake. Most people don't have a professional induction service tool so the best way is the PCV port behind the throttle body. Take a new nipple that comes with a tube of silicone, cut it close to the tip so there's a small hole. Put a long piece of 3/8 hose on the port on the intake. Put the nipple in point first in the hose so it fits tight. Start the engine then stick that hose end into the can of Seafoam. The engine will suck it in. It's best to rev it some. It'll sound like it's trying to drown the engine. You're actually supposed to kinda let it, then let it sit for a few minutes. Then fire it back up and go blow it out good. This produces amazing, quantifiable results on cars with higher mileage.

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