No it doesn’t hold aeromotive says it isn’t supposed to so maybe that’s the whole issue wish I could insert a video here
No it doesn’t hold aeromotive says it isn’t supposed to so maybe that’s the whole issue wish I could insert a video here
No I was asking why it shut off. That was you doing that?
Oh yeah I had to pull over a turn motor off wanted to double check the pressure again
Right on. Start logging TPS voltage and IAC counts please.
i can do more driving longer log in the morning, VE table still weird right? i wonder what the other guys comb is that posted with the 44lb dws
50lb sd 4 1.hpl
Hey man What is your Setup? Just curious to see if there?s any correlations. Any problems with your build or it runs goodOriginally Posted by Jakeallred
two runs trying to populate as much as i can noticed sometimes the tps bounces 0-0.4 did the reset few times
50lb sd 4 2.hpl
50lb sd 4 3.hpl
Is your CEL on when you're doing runs?
Yes p0103 maf code
Is it still looking like MAF is enabled?
Just checking.
I'm looking at a stock 2001 Silverado 2500 file. Looks like factory had inflated VE, too. You can even see the same general shape down low on both, particularly the stair step across 1600rpm and 2400rpm splines. Your VE table looks consistent with how cams change the airflow profile.
VE comparison.png
We've checked everything. I'm comfortable with it. Must be something with the way VE is calculated on those.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 02-11-2024 at 07:16 AM.
Yeah I did look way back when and it was already higher in those areas vs like a gen 4 file. Do you feel safe with going wot without PE enabling up higher?
Btw whatever happened to getting that 160* thermostat replaced with a 180*? Gotta be careful if you go to the parts store. Sometimes the chuckleheads will hand you the wrong one. Open the box and look at the stamp in the metal.
Open it up. PE will still come online. Look at TPS thresholds. I do this to get as many CL corrections as safely possible.
It’s the stock 180 it’s just so much flow from the cold case radiator there’s no restriction built in like I believe in stock rads I mean the radiator definitely was worth the money lol, but to your point its colder where I live summer time heats right up little too hot I felt after the swap
Ah ok.
Not sure that I agree. The whole purpose of a thermostat is to control a minimum temperature. Radiator cooling capacity shouldn’t change minimum temperature.
Jiggle/bypass valve probably, coupled with extra cooling capacity. Would be best to have it running at OE temp.
Also, don't forget that the steam vents aren't regulated and exit downstream of the thermostat.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 02-11-2024 at 09:46 AM.
Do stock vehicles have trouble maintaining temperature when it’s very cold? I I don’t mean -25 degrees F where just under hood temperature are cold enough to be an issue. I don’t think the increased cooling capacity is that much.
It would be interesting to block off part of the radiator and see if the temperature climbs.
Personally, if my vehicle was doing that I'd investigate it, too. Starting with a Motorad 187F thermostat. From there I'd close the loop on the steam vents by drilling and tapping a 1/8 NPT fitting into the water pump boss then re-routing there. I've done that on my TA. Vapor and air is still released on it, so it'd certainly do the same on a truck where the radiator sits higher than the top of the engine.
My only LS vehicle doesn’t get driven when it’s much below freezing. So I haven’t seen if it has trouble maintaining thermostat temperature when it’s real cold.
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