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Thread: Newbie LS Swap Help Needed

  1. #1
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    Newbie LS Swap Help Needed

    I just put a 5.3 in a CJ7 and we get it to run, but something is up and I don't know what the data is telling me or where to start to fix it. Don't make too much fun, we all start somewhere, i'm honestly just happy it runs at all. Below is a short log file and my tune. Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks,2011 Silverado 5_3_V2_3.hptCj7 Log File 1-5-24.hpl
    Jason

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    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Description of the problem you're dealing with would help. And a detailed list of mods.

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    As the motor comes to temp the passenger side starts knocking/slapping like something is running lean or rich and causing back pressure. Also the passenger header is much warmer than the driver side. Thanks

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    There are no mods stock 5.3 from a wrecked Silverado. I disabled the. Vats and 2ndO2 and DOD.

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    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck271 View Post
    As the motor comes to temp the passenger side starts knocking/slapping like something is running lean or rich and causing back pressure. Also the passenger header is much warmer than the driver side. Thanks
    Sounds to me like it's running on 4 cylinders. There's no tuning to fix that. Same with knocking/slapping. You need to do a proper diagnosis that doesn't include the laptop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    Sounds to me like it's running on 4 cylinders. There's no tuning to fix that. Same with knocking/slapping. You need to do a proper diagnosis that doesn't include the laptop.
    So i had a mechanic tell me the hot on one side is running lean and and the slap is a timing issue.

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    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck271 View Post
    So i had a mechanic tell me the hot on one side is running lean and and the slap is a timing issue.
    The headers should be hot. If they're cold to the touch, if you can even touch them, they're dead. After about 60 seconds of running you should not be able to touch the headers without taking your skin off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    The headers should be hot. If they're cold to the touch, if you can even touch them, they're dead. After about 60 seconds of running you should not be able to touch the headers without taking your skin off.
    Absolutely, but this is different in that the passenger side is much hotter than the driver side by a multiple. Just heard the fact that the original vehicle was an auto and this one is a manual could have an impact as well, but not sure since we changed the settings in the tune from auto to manual.

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    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck271 View Post
    Absolutely, but this is different in that the passenger side is much hotter than the driver side by a multiple. Just heard the fact that the original vehicle was an auto and this one is a manual could have an impact as well, but not sure since we changed the settings in the tune from auto to manual.
    I get that, and I'm telling you, sounds like one side is dead. You need a point and shoot temp gun, infrared. Depending on if the headers are coated or not, within a minute or two, they should be 600 degrees. They should take your skin off if you touch them. I think you're trying to imply that one side is too hot and that's not true. The other side is too cold. Get a temp gun, check the tube temps at idle after just a minute or two if idling and post the results.

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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    I get that, and I'm telling you, sounds like one side is dead. You need a point and shoot temp gun, infrared. Depending on if the headers are coated or not, within a minute or two, they should be 600 degrees. They should take your skin off if you touch them. I think you're trying to imply that one side is too hot and that's not true. The other side is too cold. Get a temp gun, check the tube temps at idle after just a minute or two if idling and post the results.
    Ok yes one side is definitely not getting to 600 not even close. So what do I trouble shoot to see why?

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    Basic diagnostic on that side to start. Are you getting spark and fuel.

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    check plugs and check to see if the wires are on all the way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LS ROB View Post
    check plugs and check to see if the wires are on all the way.
    Everything is plugged in. I think that side is running as both sides get warm, just the passenger sides is warmer

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    my fuel pressure gauge is holding steady while running

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    There isn’t really anything in a tune to make one side run ok and the other to barely run. There is something mechanical/electrical different from side to side. Unless you are talking about a very small difference in temperature.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
    Basic diagnostic on that side to start. Are you getting spark and fuel.
    Went and picked up a spark tester and all 8 cylinders are sparking the same. Fuel pressure is holding around 55-60psi. The O2 and Map sensors are new, is it possible one of them is bad?

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    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    What's the line "Some people you just can't tell". The flippin data log even shows one side (bank 1) the O2 goes right into the dirt and the trims start trying to add fuel to bring it up. One bank is dead. Doesn't matter if the headers are warm. If they aren't take your skin off hot within about 60 seconds that bank is dead. There's nothing you can do with a laptop to fix it. Need to diagnose it mechanically.

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    Fair enough. So if the spark is good on that side as I tested each plug then is the only possible option the injectors or something else? Really appreciate the feedback and assistance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    What's the line "Some people you just can't tell". The flippin data log even shows one side (bank 1) the O2 goes right into the dirt and the trims start trying to add fuel to bring it up. One bank is dead. Doesn't matter if the headers are warm. If they aren't take your skin off hot within about 60 seconds that bank is dead. There's nothing you can do with a laptop to fix it. Need to diagnose it mechanically.
    Picked up a Noid Light Test kit this morning and tested all the injector cables, they are all getting power so if the driver bank is dead but there is power to the injector and power to the spark plug, what could it be? The injectors themselves gummed up? Would be nice to know a process of elimination procedure.

    Spark plugs - good
    injector plug - good
    injectors - I guess I will remove them and clean them?
    MAP sensor? - Its new
    O2 sensor? - They are new
    Fuel Pressure - good 55-57 psi.

  20. #20
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Typically if one bank is dead it's a bad ground on the back of the head or a blown fuse. Not sure what to tell you but it's not a tuning issue. It's not a sensor issue.

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