Can anyone give these logs a look and my tune file? im trying to dial in my focus turbo build... The first attempt made it insanely rich with black visible smoke from the hood exit... and the pedal acts like it is disconnected except for the odd time it will grab and rev to the moon and then almost die out... in neutral without the clutch in is the best chance of getting it to rev at all... if the clutch is in then it wont rev at all... ive attached the bone stock tune file from my car... my first attempt at changes, tune file. and a few other logs ect!
vee this focus has a MAF correct assuming from the tune? Looks alot like a coyote file. Anyway, just looking at the file the torque model and spark tables look pretty scuffed.
Hi guys, sorry the build is a 2012 2.0 focus na with a turbo conversion. it has an intercooler and 91 with a bottle of octane booster ( beccause why not ). Yes it has MAF, i found another dude had posted looking for help with the exact same setup so i grabbed his file where he claimed to have dialed in his maf and that also did not work me..... any help is greatly appreciated guys.... even to get it running and driving... i can play around and make changes after i see what you guys did first to point me in the right direction! best try 2 is with his maf correction and best try 3 is back to stock maf settings.
Open this channel list in VCM scanner and take another log with the tune you found the runs the best. you should let it idle till its warm. Then remaining in neutral try to hold engine RPM at 1000 for 10 seconds, then 1500 for another 10, repeat every 500 till 3500. all in one log. If it wont rev at all just post the log with idle and what it does do.
This was pulled from the logs in the "exact same setup" thread. You will probably need to remove and add to get channels to where you are getting the right data to tune this setup, but its a start.
Learning to use the scanner and capturing the information that will help you tune your car is the critical part of tuning.
A few logs and you should be able to get your MAF transfer close, things should start running much better once that is taken care of.
The size of the pipe you have your Maf sensor in could help. Pictures of the intake piping your MAF is in would help as well.
I think these things are DI, with out port injectors. You may be fuel limited, but figuring out the scanner you should creep up on that and figure it out. Keep your foot out of it once you start being able to drive. You want slow pedal inuts and changes when first collecting data.
So the stock file seems to idle and work the best of the bunch.... so heres a log with the channel config that you suggested, this is the stock log and when i try to hold rpms it jumps then surges.... i cant get it to hold steady anyweres yet...
As for the maf sensor, its in the stock location right before the tb and in the stock little tube it comes in. I just adapted my 2" intercooler pipe right up and into the 8" long maf housing
MAF sensor signal anywhere but idle is irratic. This is a physical problem with where you have it located or things that are down stream/ upstream of it causing turbulence in the air. Sometimes its just a bad sensor. Waiting to see the pictures of this intake piping and where it is located.
Your throttle pedal signal gets a little irractic as well. is it as it came from factory or has there been splicing done? Maybe you have a throttle mapper device between it an ECU. Something with the wiring or a ground for it appears loose.
The voltage when it died doesn't look good. Make sure it has a good battery and check all your grounds and positive power wires to be sure everything is getting the right supply of electrical current. Sometimes bad batteries draw soo much current from the alternator tring to charge them, it caused issues in all other parts of the system.
it isnt letting me upload a photo for some reason.... annoying.... but my intercooler pipe comes straight up and the maf housing is poorly connected to that... then after the maf its the factory rubber kinda flexible tubing and it takes a really sharp turn almost 60 degrees and that rubber hose attaches right to the throttle body... im thinking this is why the maf reading is so far off and jumpy.. im going to make a solid 3'' elbow right now, that attaches to the throttle body and makes a shallow bend down, then have the maf affixed and a solid 6'' of pipe before and after the maf so hopefully theres no turbulance and it stays consistent.. as for the throttle pedal... i was stabbing it and fluctuating it alot to try and maintain a higher steady idle... if thats what you mean, because there isnt any kind of pedal mapper or splicing done... ill double check my grounds aswell! and as for battery voltage, ive been starting it and letting it idle for short periods of time for almost 2 days... i now have it on a charger and in the shop! so hopefully after i make these couple changes and the battery is good i can provide a more consistent log!
alright i changed IC piping to attach to the maf much better then from previous.... its now really good and solid! i just took a this log and i can tell theres a big difference in how it idles and holds revs.... i couldnt hold revs before at 1500 steady... i can now! so progress!
Thats good you got that fixed or you would never be able to tune your car. Now dial in your MAF curve at idle how murfie explained until your fuel trims look better than that.
how should i go about changing the maf vs period? i have 83-1339 on my period axis... im assuming the lower the period number, the more air that is entering... thats why my 83 period is saying 39 lb/hr right now and slopes up...
I have not seen any log yet that I could begin to start helping you adjust you MAF transfer based on what I am seeing. that last one was FMEM pedal follower, meaning it thinks the throttle body or accelerator pedal is bad. Throttle signal stayed, pedal position signal was 0 and dropped out at one point. VCT was also FMEM. just seems like you have lots of electrical problems.
The channel list has mass air being reported in frequency. you would have to delete that and find- add mass air being reported in period. I did it by converting frequency to period with a math, but you shouldnt do that as a beginner.
The short and long term fuel trims would also need to be delete, and you would have to find the NONE SAE channels so they report faster and you get the most data points. That goes for a lot of these SAE channels if you have access to the equivalent you want to use the channel with out SAE.
A Failure Mode and Effect Management (FMEM) system is to be designed which is capable of ensuring safety despite failures.
This is the last log and file before i headed home, this is the best it has run thus far! i was able to drive around in my work parking lot and without it doing anything crazy! i know i need to work on getting those short terms down via maf vs period. If anyone feels like making changes for me to try out tomorrow, feel free! I really do appreciate all off your guys input and help!
You need to log Mass airflow period. Make a histogram and do some logs and dial in the maf curve that way... Theres write ups on the forums on how to. Its pretty easy.
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