DOD delete tune issues

[cmit3125]

Im about to go insane trying to figure this one out. So much info to sift through i end up down so many rabbit holes. 2016 silverado l83 with 6l80. Trans was just rebuilt. Engine has a TSP dod/afm delete stage 1 cam, ls lifters and a 0 degree phase limiter on it. I have cam card if needed. issue im having is (ill try and explain this best i can) rich to lean issue while tuning VVE tables with a Wideband. been trying to tune this for months now and just chasing my tail so there has to be something im missing. so when i log a run it will be rich on the low end and lean up toward WOT. So i copy and paste multiply by half and log another run, and it will have swapped lean low end, rich at wot. and ive tried extrapolating out and smothing it out, adjusted my zones and nothing seems to help. I have done a compression test, checked coils and spark plugs, and checked wiring for fuel injectors. In HP tuners i have gone through and shut off fuel injectors to make sure the are working and they all seem fine at idle. went through my data logs and everything seems to be working correctly. Im assuming its something in my tune itself the i did or didnt do. Ill attach my current tune if anyone has some free time to go through it. couple of last min concerns ive heard that when you DOD and VVT delete there are several things that need to be changed in the tune and not sure ive got them all, also my VVE coefficient table has changed from my original baseline tune which i will post as well (FYI i do not have the stock tune as i sent the ECM off to have a base tune in it so all i have is whatever they did to the tune. and no idea what they actually changed. I will also add my last log file so you can see what it is doing. Hopefully that all makes sense and someone on here can help me out. Thank you in advance.

[goodling]

Just peeked at your log.
Your WOT pull your in Open loop, and your throttle closes halfway thru the pull. You are commanding 1.0
Start out by adjusting power enrich rpm delay from 5000 to 0
Next figure out what is closing your throttle.
Good luck

[cmit3125]

That ?WOT? pull was actually me just getting onto my the freeway and it closed cause I let off the throttle to keep from rear ending a semi

[GHuggins]

Are you running a 160 Tstat? Max temperature I saw in the log was about 175 and it mostly stayed around 160. Higher temps will be your friend in this case and only log at operating temp via filters. You're also only tuning in open loop as it's showing an open loop fault, but I can't see any dtc's set. If you're tuning the VE the old way you should have a MAF code set and even then it won't show an open loop fault. Since you did a VVT delete you really need to set the cam setting to none and oil pressure to disabled. Might also want to kill the virtual flex fuel setting as that can throw fueling off.

[cmit3125]

Are you running a 160 Tstat? Max temperature I saw in the log was about 175 and it mostly stayed around 160. Higher temps will be your friend in this case and only log at operating temp via filters. You're also only tuning in open loop as it's showing an open loop fault, but I can't see any dtc's set. If you're tuning the VE the old way you should have a MAF code set and even then it won't show an open loop fault. Since you did a VVT delete you really need to set the cam setting to none and oil pressure to disabled. Might also want to kill the virtual flex fuel setting as that can throw fueling off.

Not sure what the tstat is, it is the original stock one that came from the factory. Usually truck run right at 210. I?ll def keep an eye on the temps when logging though. When I get home tonight I?ll double check everything and see why I?m not getting a MAF fault code and showing an open loop fault. I?m not in front of my computer right now but where is the virtual flex fuel settings? Thank for taking a look at it. Hopefully solves my problem.

[GHuggins]

If it's supposed to be stock you may need a new one then. Looked like it was staying around 160 in that log as long if your faults aren't causing the fans to run all of the time. Engine temp should be above 190ish and injector tip temp in the 60 to 70 celcius range before logging for corrections.

The flex setting is under the flex fuel tab.

[cmit3125]

yeah today driving home from work i noticed that ECT was alot lower than norm. im going to get a new tstat. i did adjust everything i attached it to make sure i got everything i needed corrected.

[cmit3125]

If it's supposed to be stock you may need a new one then. Looked like it was staying around 160 in that log as long if your faults aren't causing the fans to run all of the time. Engine temp should be above 190ish and injector tip temp in the 60 to 70 celcius range before logging for corrections.

The flex setting is under the flex fuel tab.

Also would the VVT and Flex fuel issues cause the vehicle to stumble and "chug" at highway cruse speeds when trying to maintain speed when going up hill.

[Guy With A Chevy]

I just swapped the t-stat on my newly/used purchase 2015 silvy 5.3 6l80e was running cold for a week before I googled it. I thought it was a new future for the direct injection boy was I mislead horrible dealership. Starter went out a week later and now its in the shop for a warrantied injector.

Did you do the dod delete and have you worked on previous gens?! also is that your stock tune labeled baseline so I can compare it to mine?! Have to go to get that computer

I remember now the fans stayed on one time when I shut it off that was the sign to check it

[cmit3125]

I just swapped the t-stat on my newly/used purchase 2015 silvy 5.3 6l80e was running cold for a week before I googled it. I thought it was a new future for the direct injection boy was I mislead horrible dealership. Starter went out a week later and now its in the shop for a warrantied injector.

Did you do the dod delete and have you worked on previous gens?! also is that your stock tune labeled baseline so I can compare it to mine?! Have to go to get that computer

I remember now the fans stayed on one time when I shut it off that was the sign to check it

Yes i did do a stage 1 DoD delete and VVT delete. I have worked on pretty much all gen engines. No that is not the stock tune. That is the tune after my DoD delete not the stock tune.

[GHuggins]

yeah today driving home from work i noticed that ECT was alot lower than norm. im going to get a new tstat. i did adjust everything i attached it to make sure i got everything i needed corrected.

If the cam is fixed then it needs to be set to none under equipped.

Also would the VVT and Flex fuel issues cause the vehicle to stumble and "chug" at highway cruse speeds when trying to maintain speed when going up hill.

That's fuel, timing, torque model and other players all working together keeping torque limited and not allowing the trans to downshift.

[cmit3125]

[QUOTE=GHuggins;766322]If the cam is fixed then it needs to be set to none under equipped.


I did not see that. All had was parameters to adjust. Where can I find where to set it to none.

[cmit3125]

[QUOTE=GHuggins;766322]If the cam is fixed then it needs to be set to none under equipped.

Never mind I found it!!

[Guy With A Chevy]

Right on man good stuff I am barely getting started at the in depth stuff if I must say. Did you reuse the fuel rail hoses by any chance?! I will eventually cam it out like my gen iv 6.0 and I know the metal fuel rail hoses are suppose to be one time use but I have spoke to one local mechanic that said he has reused them no issue.

If you ever run into some electrical issues might be from from the cheap negative battery lead, thing looks like it was made for a go cart.

Also I think what Ghuggins was saying is that if your just starting to tune the VE you want to fail your MAF so the ECM knows not to use it

[GHuggins]

Right on man good stuff I am barely getting started at the in depth stuff if I must say. Did you reuse the fuel rail hoses by any chance?! I will eventually cam it out like my gen iv 6.0 and I know the metal fuel rail hoses are suppose to be one time use but I have spoke to one local mechanic that said he has reused them no issue.

If you ever run into some electrical issues might be from from the cheap negative battery lead, thing looks like it was made for a go cart.

You don't want to cheap out on that line. Why it's supposed to be replaced is because of ethanol. The ethanol eating at the insides will cause a seat ring to form and if it's not "just right" you can have fuel spray out on top of the motor. This of course all depends on age and if it was torqued correctly to begin with or afterwards. Trust me I've seen someone reuse this and it spray gas out on top of the motor. That's the last thing you want

The ground strap, usually found in the passenger wheel well going from the body to the frame is the one that really gets corroded and eaten up. Never hurts to replace that one with a good cable even though the strap will carry more amps, the cable is more shielded and protected. I think the newer ones have more issues with this especially up north.

[Guy With A Chevy]

He did say to crank it before putting on the intake and give it a visual inspection. He didnt say anything crazy like that about ethanol...

"Ethanol is corrosive

Ethanol is most corrosive to ferrous metals (metals that contain iron, such as steel). This corrosion leaves behind salt deposits and a jelly like substance, both of which can clog fuel filters, fuel pumps and carburetors." -Google

Thank you Ghuggins very interesting to see some photos of some severely corroded small plane parts. That was never a topic we covered when I worked on and flew a few planes!!!

Can you oversize the cable without interfering with the current sensor located next to the battery? I will be replacing it when I get it back if I ever do and intend to solder the ends.

[GHuggins]

I think as long as the cable fits in the current sensor you're good. I don't recall there being a specific clearance specification for it. Might want to check to be sure. If you're making your own then use some good welding cable, buy one of the ratcheting or hydraulic crimpers, crimp the crap out of it using the good heavy thick style ends then solder and heat shrink with double wall over the ends after you're done. The bad one I was talking about is down behind the fender well. You can get to it from under the truck or pulling the liner.

Ethanol is why you replace gas lines and can reuse diesel engine lines, but even the diesel ones will corrode above the mating surface area that's exposed to the elements.

[cmit3125]

If the cam is fixed then it needs to be set to none under equipped.



That's fuel, timing, torque model and other players all working together keeping torque limited and not allowing the trans to downshift.

So drive to work this morning was not to bad. On the highway it ect was around 140, city driving about 190 injector tips about 120 outside air temp about 40. But drove smooth for the most part. Drive home this afternoon ect 190, and about 65 outside. Computer died so I didn?t do a log so don?t know what fuel injector temp was. But it drove like shit. AFR kept spiking way lean and had a shudder/chuck every time. Don?t think that is an ect issue but not sure. I?m thinking maybe fuel injectors are going bad. It doesn?t stutter at slower city speed just on the freeway but still has small lean spikes. Any thoughts? I did get a new 200* Tstat so hopefully that fixes ect problems.

[GHuggins]

Dial the fueling in at full temp. Then adjust everything back as needed after the fact. That'll take care of a whole lot of it.

[cmit3125]

Dial the fueling in at full temp. Then adjust everything back as needed after the fact. That'll take care of a whole lot of it.

So changed out tstat and it did help with injector tip temp and ran a little better but would still start spiking lean after 10-15 min of driving. So pulled the fuel injectors and tested them. They were definitely bad. Got them swapped out and all back together but now it?s running even worse it wants to idle super low or is hunting really bad. Like 1500 rpm. And my torque management is all over the place. Looked at my torque tables and they are maxed out. But I don?t have any of the original stock to tables to have a base set point. No idea what to do. Have no idea even close to what they are supposed to be set to.