DBW P2135 intermittent

[gtstorey]

If the wire you patched is the problem, it's probably more about how you connected it, not the wire size.

[homedawg247]

I used a solder filled heat shrink splice on both ends. I was thinking more that the cheap section of wire I used may be wildly different quality (in a bad way) than the factory harness it's connected to?

Thank you for pointing me in a specific direction and providing a constructive answer. I will pull the sections and come back next week when I have gone through all the testing steps.

[blindsquirrel]

Welcome to my ignore list. Glad you found the info I provided to be useful.

[homedawg247]

Welcome to my ignore list. Glad you found the info I provided to be useful.

Most productive thing you've done for me so far!

[edcmat-l1]

This is the internet. We are supposed to throw out random ideas for people to try until they hit the jackpot.

LOL you win the innerwebz today.

[edcmat-l1]

This falls under the "you can lead a horse to water" deal.

[gtstorey]

If you used one of the low heat soldier heat shrink combos, that is likely your problem. There maybe some of those that are useful but most are junk. Of course I would just start with the diagnostic procedure anyway.

[edcmat-l1]

If you used one of the low heat soldier heat shrink combos, that is likely your problem. There maybe some of those that are useful but most are junk. Of course I would just start with the diagnostic procedure anyway.

Agreed. I'm a wiring snob. Most people shouldn't touch anything electrical. That includes a bunch of "that guy is really good" guys.

The proper way to replace/repair that circuit is same size and color wire, preferably same color tracer if it's a tracer, and factory replacement pins on both ends. So there's no break in the wire anywhere. Oh yeah you'll need the proper crimp pliers also. Most likely a "B" crimp.

Our local "auto electric" shop is terrible. They butt connect all white wire pigtails into later model harnesses and say that's a legit repair.

[homedawg247]

Aight, I agree I did a hack job on that one wire just to get it running. I'm going to pull the harness and see about re-doing the whole portion between the TB and TAC/PCM. I know some of the 8 wires leaving the TB go to the tac and some go straight to the PCM, so I'll see if I can order the right connectors and just re-crimp everything with new wire so it all matches at least... Unless that sounds like I might be creating more of an issue?

[edcmat-l1]

Aight, I agree I did a hack job on that one wire just to get it running. I'm going to pull the harness and see about re-doing the whole portion between the TB and TAC/PCM. I know some of the 8 wires leaving the TB go to the tac and some go straight to the PCM, so I'll see if I can order the right connectors and just re-crimp everything with new wire so it all matches at least... Unless that sounds like I might be creating more of an issue?

We literally posted at the same time.

[edcmat-l1]

Aight, I agree I did a hack job on that one wire just to get it running. I'm going to pull the harness and see about re-doing the whole portion between the TB and TAC/PCM. I know some of the 8 wires leaving the TB go to the tac and some go straight to the PCM, so I'll see if I can order the right connectors and just re-crimp everything with new wire so it all matches at least... Unless that sounds like I might be creating more of an issue?

There's a lot that goes into doing OEM style electrical repair. You need to know or figure out how to take the connectors apart the get the pins out without damaging them. You need to have access to a huge variety of pins or know where to get them. I have a huge selection on the shelf. You have to have a selection of rubber insulators. You have to have a bunch of different sized wire color on hand, preferably some tracer wire. You have to have the proper crimp tools.

I do everything from small stuff to making battery cables with OE style ends crimped on, not bolted. Heat shrink wherever possible, etc.

I don't use "pigtails" anywhere.

[homedawg247]

There's a lot that goes into doing OEM style electrical repair. You need to know or figure out how to take the connectors apart the get the pins out without damaging them. You need to have access to a huge variety of pins or know where to get them. I have a huge selection on the shelf. You have to have a selection of rubber insulators. You have to have a bunch of different sized wire color on hand, preferably some tracer wire. You have to have the proper crimp tools.

I do everything from small stuff to making battery cables with OE style ends crimped on, not bolted. Heat shrink wherever possible, etc.

I don't use "pigtails" anywhere.

Guys, I'm trying my best here! I'm a beginner, I need help, I need to be pointed in the right direction. I don't know the names of these specific pins and connectors because I've never done this type of automotive wiring. You have all the pins, can you tell me the name so I can order the right things? If I need to send you pictures I can do that. I know how to get the connectors apart, I'm not a professional but I'm also not a complete novice either.

[gtstorey]

Agreed. I'm a wiring snob. Most people shouldn't touch anything electrical. That includes a bunch of "that guy is really good" guys.

The proper way to replace/repair that circuit is same size and color wire, preferably same color tracer if it's a tracer, and factory replacement pins on both ends. So there's no break in the wire anywhere. Oh yeah you'll need the proper crimp pliers also. Most likely a "B" crimp.

Our local "auto electric" shop is terrible. They butt connect all white wire pigtails into later model harnesses and say that's a legit repair.

I'll have to admit to usually bare butt or bypass crimp, followed by soldier, followed by heat shrink. And will go bigger wire and different colors. But I only work on my own stuff and can't justify the outlay for the variety needed to do 100% repair.

[edcmat-l1]

20230523_080714_.jpg

20230523_081621_.jpg

Just a before and after of eliminating an unneeded adapter.

[edcmat-l1]

I'll have to admit to usually bare butt or bypass crimp, followed by soldier, followed by heat shrink. And will go bigger wire and different colors. But I only work on my own stuff and can't justify the outlay for the variety needed to do 100% repair.

I completely understand. Most people can't make the investment to do stuff on the OE level. I tell people all the time I build stuff with the thought in mind that someone way more snobbish than myself is going to pick it apart. I build stuff, literally out of paranoia LOL

[homedawg247]

Ok, so I ran over and yanked the part of the harness I'm going to redo... 8 wires from the TB over to the TAC module. I have a set of B crimpers, so I'm good there (i've used them, i'm familiar with how they work)

I found the Delphi Micropack terminals for the TAC module side of things.. These look like the same as the ECM/PCM pins on my Blue/Green PCM, so I'll order a bunch for future use.
LINK

The side the connects to the TB looks like these GT280 style connectors:
LINK

Here's my terminals out of their respective connectors:
GT280.jpg
Delphi_Micropack.jpg

Am I missing anything? I'm going to use color coded wire (albeit not exactly the same tracers and all), but all the same gauge and length...
If the problem persists after all this, what are the chances the issue is inside the TPS/TB?

[TheMechanic]

Take each one of those wires and grab one end (terminal) and then go about 9 inches or so down the wire and give it a good pull. There is a bulletin on internal wire failure at the throttle body. I have had MANY and they have been a yellow wire every single time.

[homedawg247]

Take each one of those wires and grab one end (terminal) and then go about 9 inches or so down the wire and give it a good pull. There is a bulletin on internal wire failure at the throttle body. I have had MANY and they have been a yellow wire every single time.

I checked them all a couple weeks back and found the black one was broken about 4 inches back from the TB. I spliced in a new wire (in a very shitty way) and now we're here. I've hacked these 8 wires out of the loom, so there's no turning back now. I just ordered Micropack ECM pins and GT280 terminals (i measured with a digital caliper). I'll get the new terminals Sunday, get it wired up and go test sometime Monday.

I'll let everyone know if that fixes my issue!

[edcmat-l1]

You should be able to order the connector as a really long "pigtail" with the proper color wires, proper pins on both ends to plug right into the TAC module. Need to measure them out and contact someone like PSI harness or EFI connection. That's what I would recommend especially if you don't do this stuff everyday.