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Thread: HELP!!! Gen III Deka 80 Turbo $40k boat anchor

  1. #1
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    HELP!!! Gen III Deka 80 Turbo $40k boat anchor

    I rarely if ever ask for help but,,,

    I could used some guidance.. I have been working on this truck for years.. I paid a "performance shop" to just make it match what the Dodge Viper Truck would perform... The guy didn't have a clue but never informed me of such... Finally got the truck back, need to change the diff fluid "break in" two bolts hand tight holding the transmission crossmember, no nut holding the transmission the gears he installed in the rear diff Destroyed all driveshafts. fuel lines to small,,,,,ect..... Broke down and brought it to a different Performance shop to get the tune right, I purchased $3k+ from the tuning school but just couldn't figure it out.. the new performance shop. blew a radiator hose, then the blew the radiator, and replaced the hood latch handle in the cab... $3k..... they call and they cant get it to Idle.... I told them ... I drove it to your shop what do you mean.
    after it sitting in my drive for 4 more years i have started tinkering with it .... I finally found where they enabled the MAF ... I don't have a MAF.. the turbo splits them in half..

    Questions - Cylinder Airmass - Does it require modification due to forced injection? If so how?

    Look at the injector data I have please.. I complied it years ago.. Seems ok. it runs and drives. stumbles WOT at 2.8-3.2k rpms ish. (If I remember correct back then I had a great deal of support from the tuning school, (we were fighting knock retard then) I finally got fed up and turned them almost off (hoping I would blow it up and all my problems would be solved)

    Also the first Performance shop chose all the parts not me,, With what is listed in the the signature is it possible these components just dont work together??

    Yes I realize its not the smoothest but if I am smoothing incorrect data from the start it is a waste of time. I have spent countless hours smoothing,,

    The current rear axle gear ratio is 3.51 or something its a stock rear. the one I had built with 4.88's is too low for the trans.. Drive shaft rotation is insane..

    I am attaching the latest tune,,, Having issues around 3K rpms.. I have done 11 gallons worth of pulls.

    41924AG hm.hpl
    41924AG hm.hpt

    Let me know if I attached it right?

    I appreciate all the help I can get.
    Thank you
    2000 GMC Sierra 1500
    Single Cab SWB Stepside
    2002 Gen III 5.3
    2004 fuel rail
    BW 73 mm turbo
    Texas Speed Cam
    Roller Rockers/Push Rods
    Siemens Deka 80lb injectors
    Walbro 525 fuel pump
    Tremec Stage 2 T56 6 speed transmission
    Yukon posi trac 4.88 gears
    Calvert Racing Traction bars
    Drop spindles and drop brackets and hangers
    Street Racing Shocks
    Snow Performance Meth Inj
    and a bunch of other crap!!!

  2. #2
    Your fuel injector data is set up for a return style fuel system, so if you are running a deadhead system that will eventually be a problem. I say eventually, because your VE and spark tables are screwed. You just cannot have dramatic enormous differences between adjoining cells and expect anything to work right. I have no idea what you have "spent hours smoothing", but I don't see it in this tune.

  3. #3
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    Yes, you are setup for vacuum-referenced fpr. 2004 fuel rail is non-referenced, unless you've configured it to be so. Double check the type of regulation. What cam are you running with exact specs? MAP sensor part number? Have you put in a separate IAT? Don't use the MAF sensor's IAT reading for FI. Intercooler?

  4. #4
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    Uff. Double check your injector data like the others said. You have a completely jacked VE table. 1 Degree of spark along with in and out of fueling is going to give you grief.

    Once you are more comfortable with tuning and get some bugs worked out, I highly recommend scaling the tune to get better control resolution of the timing into boost. Another way is to leave it unscaled and play with the Fuel Base Spark adder at a way less resolution.
    Last edited by ns158sl; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:38 AM.

  5. #5
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    Nothing looks wrong in the setup.

    There is a lot of rough work in the tune. I would start completely over with it.

    The map sensor linear and offset are not setup for any map sensor I know of. You might want to check into that.

    I'd also encourage you to disable the alcohol injection until you get closer. It's just going to complicate things. Keep the boost reasonable. It shouldn't NEED meth.
    Tuner at PCMofnc.com
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  6. #6
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    I have disabled the meth injection. Like you said I agree it just adds complexity. Max boost is about 10 psi. Help me understand the map sensor linear and offset

  7. #7
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    I don?t have any information to double check / compare the injector data. I have gone through these books many many times. Tabbed and highlighted. Etc

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason.Henley View Post
    I have disabled the meth injection. Like you said I agree it just adds complexity. Max boost is about 10 psi. Help me understand the map sensor linear and offset
    This goes back to why Sirius asked for a map sensor part number. The linear and offset numbers will be massively different between a 1 or 2 or 3 bar map. Even between different part numbers of 2 bar map, for instance, the difference in linear and offset can be enough to completely change your tune. These values need to be input correctly in your tune based on the exact sensor you have. Sort of like with fuel pressure, temp sensors, or injector flow tables, these are parameters that need to be correct and not "tuned around". If you keep going into boost with your fuel and timing so messed up, you WILL damage this motor. What you have now is not even good as a starting point.

  9. #9
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    I replaced the fuel rail with a newer model not sure the year but it does have a return line from the rail. I have an Areomotive fuel regulator. MAF sensor is not install they just fall apart. Can spec are as follows

    Texas speed cam shaft part # 25-TSP224228R6114

    Duration .050 intake 224 exhaust 228
    Lobe lift - intake - .353 exhaust.- . 353
    Valve lift @ 1.7 intake .600 exhaust. .600
    Lobe separation - intake 114
    Intake center line - intake 110

  10. #10
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    I am receiving 2 bar data. I don?t know the exact map sensor part number.

  11. #11
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    Actually I don?t know where I am receiving the IAT information but it seems accurate based on ambient air temperature.

  12. #12
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    ?The map sensor linear and offset are not setup for any map sensor I know of. You might want to check into that.?
    I have no idea how to correct this? Is this process included in any of the instructions from the tuning school?

  13. #13
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    If your map sensor doesn’t have a part number on it, get a different oem GM one.

  14. #14
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    Are you telling me the GMC OEM Map sensor is good for 2 bars?
    Assuming the sensor is ok, how do I figure the linear and offset? Is that some data supplied with the sensor??

  15. #15
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    I found the sensor data. I will check it out and get it corrected

  16. #16
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    Well I have the 12615113601771. AC Delco.. from what I have read it is good for 2 bars. And based on information found no here I guess I have a choice for the setting the opinions very 200-208 and 8, 8.11, 10. Also I have a IAT sensor mounted directly in front of the throttle body.

  17. #17
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    200/8 for 12615136. Which IAT sensor?