Originally Posted by
TransGo Robert
Okay, let me try to go over a few basic things here to help you figure this one out.
First, with the performance kit you put in, the command for the pwm solenoid does not make any difference anymore. You can change it to whatever you want in the tune, it will do sweet nothing.
The only thing that matters now as far as lockup is the TCC enable solenoid command. Unfortunately I don't think HP tuner has a way to show what the command is for that solenoid, I have never seen a log with it, they only seem to have that goofy TCC mode parameter available. To know what the TCC enable solenoid command is happening, the easiest thing is to look at the TCC pwm percentage signal command happens, look at the PWM solenoid %. As soon as you see it drop and then ramp up, it means the TCC enable solemoir just turned ON, and now you're in full lockup.
Nest, yes, I am very familiar with that servo. Actually both of them that website you got them from includes both the second and fourth servo. With that 4th servo, you actually don't need as much pressure to apply the same force since it has a slightly greater apply surface area. So in theory you should not need more pressure then before.
The one thing that makes a difference here is how much servo travel you have. In second gear it's fairly easy to hold the drum, but because the drum turns in the opposite direction on third vs first gear, it's a harder to stop the drum. So if you have more than 0.100" ilof pin travel, it sometimes has a hard time to hold under load. Double check you travel there.
Next, the reason it holds solid even with the computer not commanding as much pressure once the lockup is applied, is because now you've just removed all the torque multiplication from the torque converter. So, it is much easier to hold the band from slipping when you're in fourth with the converter fully locked.
As for the input shaft coming out of the drum taking out your 3-4 clutch, that is an extremely common issue, and had nothing to do with using the radiator or not with your higher stall converter. With a higher stall converter, the best thing you can do is to always use the in radiator heat exchanger AND add after it a good size external air to air heat exchanger. Liquid to liquid is much much more efficient than air to air, that's why you want to have both. To help illustrate the difference, think about going outside in your boxer shorts only when it's 50? outside. Not too fully unbearable for a short period, however now think about going into water in a pool at that same 50? temperature. See how much more efficient liquid to lquid is at transfering heat? You will freezing big time!
All that to say, that you simply don't have enough clamping force to prevent thee band from slipping fourth gear with the converter unlocked. If you're lucky, you haven't driven enough yet to fry the band.
If it was me, I would double check the band clearance, if that's all good I would put a gauge on it and see what the pressure is at the lowest command by the computer versus the highest command to make sure it is in specs. If thats good I would look at the pressure on 4th gear to make sure there's no leak when in 4th.
If that all looks normal, then I would tweak tune to make sure that it commands higher pressure in fourth when the converter is not locked.