Anyone use an IC Chiller System?

[Stoopalini]

Just curious if folks with boosted setups are using an active cooling setup, like an IC Chiller, to bring IAT2 temps down to ambient or below; and if it helps with long term reliability when running boost

I would think a system like this would allow more base timing without detonation and thus more reliable power.

https://icchiller.com/product/durang...er-track-only/

My IAT2 temps are regularly in the 130 - 140 *F range, even with mid 80s ambient. I imagine a system like this would result in ambient temps, or even 10* or so lower than ambient.

The question is ? is it worth the expense and effort for a daily driver? I imagine a race vehicle it would be really nice for hot lapping.

[N2speed]

Depends on the build... and need more info on your build and goals.

[Stoopalini]

It’s nothing crazy. It’s a 2023 Dodge Durango R/T with the Tow & Go package. So it has all the SRT components except with the 5.7 hemi instead of the 392.

I added a gen 5x Whipple to it and want to keep it below 8psi for now. Plan is to forge the lower end sometime next year, and up the boost to 10-12.

The idea of the IC Chiller intrigues me due to the high air charge temps I’m seeing. I realize 130 - 140 is manageable, but from a longevity perspective, I wondered if lowering the temps back down to ambient would be advantageous. I put the Whipple on around 13k miles, and have about 19k on it now. I’m looking for a long lasting solution since it’s the wife’s daily driver. Something which will make reliable power for the next 100k miles. So spending $2k on the ic chiller would be fine if it meant better long term reliability. But if it would only really benefit me if I were doing something more extreme, then I’d skip it.

[SiriusC1024]

As long as spark is correct the IAT can be hot without compromising reliability. 130-140 really isn't that bad anyway.

[LilSick]

if yer seeing 130 degree your water pump is sucking air or something is not right

3 liter whipples run cool

[Stoopalini]

As long as spark is correct the IAT can be hot without compromising reliability. 130-140 really isn't that bad anyway.

Would cooler air charge temps equate to lower cylinder pressures?

if yer seeing 130 degree your water pump is sucking air or something is not right

3 liter whipples run cool

I thought the same, and reached out to Whipple .. but they were no help. The system is definitely purged of air. I even used a Mighty Vac to pull a vacuum on it to ensure nothing was still trapped.

I even sent the following video to Whipple when they suggested I have air stuck somewhere in the system, but they never even watched it (it's a non-listed video and has zero views currently).



Since then, I've seen a lot of other folks log files and 130 doesn't seem abnormal for this setup. So maybe it is all working correctly, and if I want lower temps, something like the IC Chiller ... or, a larger heat exchanger and better pump?

[LilSick]

99 degree.PNG

80 degree day

[Stoopalini]

Hmm, I wonder why mine is running so hot? Could the tuning issues be causing higher heat soak?

Or ... maybe the TMAP sensor I have is in fact bad, and the IAT readings are just another symptom of the bad sensor?

The replacement 2.25 bar sensor should be delivered tomorrow ... so hopefully I have time to swap it out in the next day or two. I know I need to set the characteristic data properly for the new sensor, but I imagine I'll also need to rescale some tables too, and not just swap it and run the same tune designed for the 3 bar sensor.

[dodgeboy]

Hmm, I wonder why mine is running so hot? Could the tuning issues be causing higher heat soak?

Or ... maybe the TMAP sensor I have is in fact bad, and the IAT readings are just another symptom of the bad sensor?

The replacement 2.25 bar sensor should be delivered tomorrow ... so hopefully I have time to swap it out in the next day or two. I know I need to set the characteristic data properly for the new sensor, but I imagine I'll also need to rescale some tables too, and not just swap it and run the same tune designed for the 3 bar sensor.

on my 2.9L I commonly get over 120 but my IAT sensor is after the blower.

IAT2 is higher than IAT1

[Stoopalini]

on my 2.9L I commonly get over 120 but my IAT sensor is after the blower.

IAT2 is higher than IAT1

The 3.0L uses a Hellcat TMAP sensor, which has the IAT and MAP combined into a single sensor housing. Then the IAT wire from the TMAP connects to the factory IAT harness. So the PCM sees IAT1 signal, but in fact it is IAT2; since it is after the compressor stage.

My IAT consistently reads 130, even just fro the wife going and dropping the kiddos at school.

I double checked the IC coolant system last night, making sure I have the inlet and outlet correct (they are), the pump is running (it is), and I even unbolted the reservoir and lifted it up just to make sure no air was still trapped (no new bubbles came out).

The flow seems to be good to me, but I don't have any reference for comparison.

I wonder if the IC coolant lines are causing an IAT reading issue, considering they run behind the Whipple and rest against the TMAP sensor.

The TMAP sensor is installed in the passenger's side rear corner of the 3.0L

IAT_Heat_Soak.JPG

[LilSick]

yours is totally different Frank. apples n oranges

one of the guys with a 3.0 that i am tuning had a kink in the line down by the pump

you see the pic i posted. that is 80 degree day WOT

140 at least you know your belt is not slipping : )

[Stoopalini]

So the replacement TMAP arrived today (68207074AB), but I haven't swapped it out yet as I'm not sure what needs adjustment in the tune before I do so.

I know I need to change the characteristic data for this sensor in AIRFLOW -> GENERAL and believe these are the correct values based on what a 2016 Hellcat stock tune shows:

MAP Sensor Linear/Slope: 45.42 kPa
MAP Sensor Offset: 7.00 kPa
MAP Sensor Offset: 0.1001v

But are there any other tables which need rescaling to change from the 3 bar to a 2.25 bar?

I also ordered some insulating material to wrap the IC coolant lines with, where they rest against the TMAP. Just in case this is causing a false high reading.

[edcmat-l1]

I would second that something is not right with the intercooler system. The pump isn't pumping, airlock, kinked line, something is up.

Where is the reservoir located? How much capacity? Have you pulled a hose to make sure it's pumping good?

[Stoopalini]

I would second that something is not right with the intercooler system. The pump isn't pumping, airlock, kinked line, something is up.

Where is the reservoir located? How much capacity? Have you pulled a hose to make sure it's pumping good?

It's the Whipple supplied reservoir, located above the passenger's head. Not sure on capacity, but it's pretty small. I have not pulled a hose, but it appears to be pumping good ... check out the video I posted above where I walk through the system. I even open the bleeder valve on the heat exchanger while the pump is running and it is definitely flowing.

I have a replacement bracket for the pump, so will be pulling the bumper to swap that out. I'll double check all the hoses when I do that. There doesn't appear to be any kinks in them though.