I'm not chasing timing numbers at risk of hammering the bearings or breaking a ring land without a dyno. Timing is pretty high, and I'm not going to push it. Safe reliable power. That's what I like. I don't do ragged edge drag tunes where people change motors out like tampons.
Sure. Then you'll flash back to stock OS. Copy tune tables over. Write one of the boost OS's.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:39 PM.
Yes sir, sounds good to me I'm not going to mess with it right now. I'm enjoying it just the way it is. I'm curious on how well its going to launch in 4wd but I don't want to break it yet. lol
It'll handle it as long as you don't get wheel hop. Caltracs will help put the power to the pavement. Highly recommend.
And don't mess with any of the e85 conversion/fuel blend/etc. until after you are happy with how your tune is dialed in and everything is working properly. Once you jump down that rabbit hole there are a lot of possible issues that can arise, and it is a lot easier to solve them when you know your base tune is solid. I have seen people cause extra problems before solving the original ones, and it always takes far longer to sort them out as a result.Originally Posted by smasher
Exactly.
It has them already and they are set appropriately. Thought about ditching them for a 3 link but will see one day
Oh really? 408's man. What's it like driving that thing?
After you got me dialed in and got that traction issue fixed it’s been a blast.lol Comparing the file I started with from the local tuner and the one you did it seems there were so many wrong things done. How are these tuners still in business?
Last edited by smasher; 2 Weeks Ago at 12:33 AM.
Good
another question... will the speed density tune still work well when the weather gets colder?
Sd works fine in any weather, with one major caveat. If you have the IAT sensor in the manifold, you are good, but if it is somewhere else in the intake tract, then the IAT vs ECT bias table may need adjusting.
I believe it's in the maf sensor.
Then there is a chance that the bias table will need some tweaking. Any difference will be more pronounced at lower airflow values such as idle and light cruising. As long as you are still running closed loop, the factory trims will easily adjust for this, and any differences will likely be negligible at higher airflows where you are in PE mode. If you find any of that bothersome, just log in various weather conditions and tweak the bias table as needed.
It looks like they used the 6125 OS with 8.1L trucks (flex fuel disabled) there are of 2002 8.1 HPT files. I think on my third one I found one with 4L80e and not an Alison. So it didn't need a segment swap as it started as a 4l80e.
When you first read a vehicle it downloads everything. When you make changes it only uploads the calibration "file", no reason to upload the OS again. This speeds up making changes and is safer. When you switch an OS you of course have to upload the new one, and the new matching calibration file.
This is the first time I've done a move all changes. Lesson learn it doesn't change the DTCs!
I posted two files, one with no Flex fuel settings and fuel flex disabled (basically the 8.1's settings) and then a second HPT file with the flex fuel settings copied over from a stock 5.3. The 2002 seems to have less flex fuel options verse when I did this on my 2005, of course some of the setting are buried compare all, easy to miss one.
Agreed, I wouldn't enable flex fuel until the base tune is dialed in.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. The flex fuel HPT files I posted were just to LOOK at, NOT TO USE.
Last edited by DodgeZ; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:50 AM.
What kind of transfer case is in this truck?
Np246
that is the one with the auto mode?
yea, and its for the 4l80. for learning purposes how do you know when there's enough or not enough timing being added and where and how much to add? Usually on a distributer you add it till it clatters a bit and dial it back a little. Is there anything I can do so i can keep learning how to do this stuff?
Last edited by smasher; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:28 PM.
Not sure if they made a 8.1 with a 4l80e and a NP246. I'd guess the 8.1l got the NP263, which doesn't seem to be AutoTrec. I can't find anywhere in the HPT file that tells you what transfer case it is configured for.
You use the knock sensors these days, you don't have to let it rattle. Same idea, when you see true KR, you dial it back. Dyno is need to get it really dialed in to MBT
ok after driving it around for a while I still have the same issue going on p0103 mass airflow volume, and both knock sensors circuit low both banks p0327 p0332 and when they come on this thing turns into a Buick le Sabre.
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