2012 5.3 swap 4x4 silverado replaced with 450HP summit racing SUM-150153
I've watched lots of videos but I think we are in over our head and could use some help.
We have a 2012 5.3 4x4 silverado that had AFM lifter failure at 130k miles.
Decided to grab a summit racing 450HP 5.3 long block SUM-150153 specs below.
We replaced the 24x crank reluctor with the 58x using the tool, swapped out cam gear with 12586481 4X camshaft gear from a 2006 LS2 and timing cover to match.
tapped the block and connected the knock sensors.
Replaced all the the injectors, with the new delco 12613411 (same as old part number) 36# at 58psi
New valley plate to seal it up, moved the oil pressure sensor, capped the rear vapor vents on heads, and presto- we have an iron block non-AFM/DOD 5.3 in a gen4 truck.
We were very mistaken on the ECU modifications required to make it run happily. Apparently this lumpy cam and 10:1 compression make a big difference from stock.
We started with a diablo tuner to remove the AFM/DOD. It got us sputtering down the road but nothing more, and left the MIL on for the open cam sensor P0010.
We removed all diablo tuning- Purchased HP tuners MPVI3 and 3 credits. We've spent 10 days watching tuners videos- which have been very helpful- and have us running much better. Idle is not happy.
We removed all of the AFM/DOD and P0010 errors.
We don't have a wideband O2 sensor
We are in Atlanta Georgia and Looking for help/ next steps.
I've uploaded our base compare file, 18th edit that has it... "driveable" and a log file from that edit.
SUM-150153
* Horsepower: 450+
* Torque: 420+
* Block: Seasoned OE LM7/5.3L iron
* Bore/stroke: 3.800-3.820 in. x 3.622 in.
* Year range: 1999-2007
* Displacement: 323 C.I.D.
* Crankshaft: OEM GM 3.622 in. stroke internally balanced 24-tooth reluctor wheel
* Connecting Rods: OE GM forged powder metal 6.093 in.
* Pistons: Hypereutectic flat top
* Piston rings: Moly
* Compression ratio: 10:1 compression
* Camshaft: Summit Racing Pro LS Roller
* Camshaft specifications: Lift- 550/550, Duration @.050- 222/232
* Camshaft bearings: Installed and clocked to OEM position
* Cylinder heads: #799 or #243 OE aluminum 64cc 2.00 in./1.55 in. valves
* Freeze plugs: Brass installed and sealed
* Rocker arms: OE powdered metal 1.7 ratio
* Oil Galley plugs: Installed and sealed 20240827_171412.jpg20240828_232143.jpg20240827_201836.jpg
Looks like your running a bit rich but without a better PID layout it's hard to tell much more than that. I'll attach one to get you started. Also you can give this tune a shot if your up to it. Just leaned it out a bit and added some more idle airflow for that cam. See if that's any better and post another log
We captured 4x logs
1st one we let the engine idle until up to temp with our 18th file loaded. Rough idle, etc.
2nd one we did an idle to about 2200 RMP with the engine warm.
3rd one was after we added your changes. I think we may have some delayed responsiveness in our file, in an effort to remove the whiplash timing, that caused the engine to continue to rev after we lifted off the throttle. So it kept on climbing until we killed the ignition. Definitely going to need to find/fix that.
4th one was after we removed your changes. Just to make sure we were back to the 18th file.
I've been getting a little remote help- but the idle/low speed drivability is just not there. WOT is fun! Just try not to get in a long line at a 4-way stop.
All help is greatly appreciated.
My notes for the log-
timing jumping from 12 to 47 during idle warm up. Had to keep pedal at ~24 to keep it running. Steady pedal resulted in timing and rpm swings. It appears that once the engine crossed a temp threshold around 8:03am the timing calmed down. Still wouldn't idle without help but it only required ~20 pedal to idle at ~1150
tried to let it idle without pedal help- but no love.
at 8:07- reached temp. Idle without pedal help at around 800-850.
at 8:08- dropped into drive and stalled out.
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