Nah man all good. I know it can be a headache keeping it all sorted sometimes.
Nah man all good. I know it can be a headache keeping it all sorted sometimes.
It's been quiet on my end, long power outage from a "bomb cyclone" that rolled thru last week.
Since my last post I have installed a 180 thermostat, reworked my grounds, installed new GM knock sensors and properly torqued, new GM knock sensor wiring harness, new 12613412 injectors and wire adapters from ICT Billet.
First start was a fail. The engine barely idled and would die on throttle input. I used injector data from the file "P59 12613412 58psi referenced-refined" which I believe is form Blindsquirrel. I reinstalled my old injectors to get a working vehicle for now. It seems the nature of my knock sensors has changed for the better. No more SES light. I made a couple logs for knock. There isn't any more max retard at this point so far. I have rechecked the injector data and it looks ok to me but I am obviously missing something.... Does the ECM model matter? I think mine is an 0411. I didn't get a log of the new injectors at idle, as I said it barely ran and was super lean-1.2xx lambda.
I also did a fuel pressure check.
Static 52
Idle 48
Vac unplugged 54
Throttled 54
Decel from throttle 44
These all seem low to me... I have a new GM regulator and fuel filter ordered.
Hope your winter weather has been ok, and Thanks for the help!!
Last edited by GBull; 11-25-2024 at 01:24 PM.
For that injector data make Default match Min. Fuel>Transient>MinFuelMg to 0.015.
The fuel pressure readings are typical. New parts are a good idea anyway.
Get a log with the new injectors. Allow ECT to come up so that fuel trims come online. Let's see what's going on.
Ok so... I think the reason it didn't run the first try was several of the wiring adapter's pins pushed out as I connected them. This would account for the leanness. I was very careful this time with those new adapter pigtails...
So it started and is running rich. I think it's at its trim limits but still managed to bring it to lambda in the idle range and light throttle. Around a tps of 40% and it goes rich to .69 lambda... Could I really have the correct injector data? I must say I am gaining a lot of experience with your assistance.
Ah crap, I just realized I didn't flash that last transient fuel value in... I'll go do it now.
Heres the first scan anyway..
The richness is probably from the min fuel mg. You said you're going to do that. Is that log with that setting because the tune doesn't have it applied?
No I had forgotten to flash the new data. This tune and log has it applied. Holy Moly what a difference. I reset fuel trims before log. The trims look very well behaved to me AND it seems like it just runs cleaner/easier too. Maybe just my hopeful imagination. It's rainy and the traffic is thick at rush hours right now. When everyone gets home later I'll run another log for knock in mind. What do you think about moving the injector timing back to 5.88? I can smell the exhaust is a little ripe at idle.
Sure give the EOIT a shot. You still need to put .243 into the Default Injector Pulse table.
Changed and logged. She's really coming along! Looks like I hit about 66% duty cycle which is roughly 33lbs/min. Plenty of room left over lol. Also noted 471 ft/lbs delivered torque-for what it's worth... Rainy conditions so my WOT runs had to be a little bit measured. Traction is loose at 70mph and open throttle...This was a thorough logging, see what you think.
Short recap:
I initially asked the question on how "delivered torque" was calculated because I was thinking it may be a way to optimize my timing tuning effort (turns out not a great idea..). SiriusC1024 answered and asked how my tune was looking so I posted. He then proceeded to assist in my tuning to the extent of as many as eight iterations to help me clean up my program. He encouraged me to check all my grounds to figure out why I had such erratic timing issues. Since I had to remove my intake to get to the grounds I also replaced my knock sensors and wiring harness with new GM parts(and torqued). Along the way it was also determined that my old injectors were not doing me any favors in providing stable fueling. Again SiriusC1024 made a recommendation for replacement and I purchased new set of GM 12613412's, and harness adapters. With new injector data and a resolved snafu with the injector harness adapters I was up and running again. My spark retard problem is solved, no more random heavy retard that was all over the place. NOTE to us novices... When a senior guy even mentions how your grounds look go after em with a vengeance and report back that they are all squared away.. With the new injectors my fueling is indeed better.
I have spent a few days this last week cleaning up my idle Base Running Airflow. Idle in gear needed to be adjusted and was an improvement when going from park to gear. Several scans and adjustments were made to the speed density table and it is looking pretty good. At this point I am thinking it's time to move on to the MAF calibration and see what kind of challenges the KN CAI gives me.
I'm happy to give a shout-out to Sirius and several other senior tuners that lent their expertise.
Heres my latest tune and log, comments appreciated.
Glad I can help and that you're enjoying your build.
I think a little more time on VE should be done.
I've been working the VE. I discovered an exhaust leak and repaired it, this helped stablize my fueling a little more... I have ran 3 logs since the repair and done the adjustments. The VE table you see is without any smoothing and includes all data to this point. I hand entered the last log and will run it tomorrow night. I decided to back some timing out and hold in closed loop to see what was under the open loop zeros. It was 3+ rich in about all ranges-this fell right in line after several scans earlier in the week and these last 3 with exhaust fixed.
Ok I think I have a keeper on this one. I found my exhaust leak by noticing bank 1 was always trimming slightly richer than bank 2. I presumed bank 1 is the drivers side so I started there. The leak tell was obvious... Bank 2 got new gaskets also. Guess I should have remembered to give them a re-torque. A sound exhaust system makes thing so much more doable-I feel like a dolt on that score. Curiously, I had thought that I would be reducing my VE table after cleaning up after the unwanted extra O2. From 50kpa and less the table was added to by 2 to 3 percent. 50kpa and greater and the table was less affected. It came in line very quickly, I have done many unnecessary scans and wasted a good amount of fuel learning this lesson. Unfortunately I accidentally lost the scan that showed the first log after repair.
This is by far my best looking log. Let me know if it needs a little more massaging. The tune file in my previous post is current.
As always, Thanks.
Last edited by GBull; 12-13-2024 at 08:20 PM.
That's good enough. If you want to move to MAF then do so. Alternatively, there's the option of the SDOS.
I just finished this scan. I think it's good. While I've been doing this Ve work I have also been working the spark table. The retard that is pulled on this log has happened for the last 3 or 4 scans even after taking more timing out each time. This .hpt file has not been modified with this last scan. Check out the timing table. I'd appreciate some of your expertise in the knock desensitization if you think it is appropriate. Also notable, There are no knock related codes of any kind and I've never actually heard any knock.
Thanks man
Last edited by GBull; 4 Weeks Ago at 01:48 AM.
As a test, remove the timing from both the hi and low octane tables and see if it makes a difference, looks like it's running off of the low octane table and it has more timing than the hi table right now. As another separate test you could desensitize burst knock or disable it altogether for a test.
One of the only easy ways to be certain it's not knock is to listen to the engine during the displayed occurrence. This can be done with semi expensive digital headphone type systems or very inexpensive homemade ear muffs, tubing and some time. (kock ears)
I don't have enough experience to know for certain but looking at your data, based on the load of the engine, the timing looks a little high when the KR shows up and I don't think you would be missing much power if you lowered it a few degrees and smoothed around in the problem area, if it is actually a problem area. Right now, if you didn't look at the data, would you know it's pulling timing based on how the engine feels/seat of the pants?
I assume Sirius will chime in when he gets a chance to look at the data.