Originally Posted by Tapi
Wow, that's a new one.
Don't trust parts from amazon or ebay.
Even out side the car industry. We got flea and tick treatment for the dogs and a few months later amazon reached out to let us know it's faked. I know that counterfeit guitar strings are a thing on amazon.. I've even heard of rogane being faked on amazon.
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My dogs got very sick with some Amazon flea treatment several years ago, before Amazon was the counterfeit haven it is now.
I purchased a set of knock sensors that were "genuine gm" packaging and all off eBay and couple weeks later it threw a code for the sensors .. I went back to eBay suspecting these a phony and eBay said this seller has been banned and under investigation ..Lesson learned there . They did a good job of making these look so real , they looked just like a dealer sold item ..
I am no fan of Amazon, but their fakes problem is almost/possibly entirely down to the 'marketplace' sellers, who just spun up a storefront with a few clicks and drop-ship things they never lay eyes on. The stuff sold by Amazon.com is pretty reliable. I do not buy anything off Amazon ever from any marketplace scammers they decided to let in. (Amazon takes a huge percentage of everything their outside sellers move, it's a classic mob racket)
off-topic aside: I buy the cat-compatible Advantage II flea stuff, in the 'large dog 6-pack' and never gotten the fake stuff. Buying in the largest dose and largest quantity it works out to $83/oz or just over $10,000/gal. But the same stuff in the small cat single tube pack works out to $1200/oz or $155,245/gal.
It's been so long ago on my issue with the flea stuff that I don't remember the details. I think it was about the time that they started doing "marketplace" so I might not have realized that it was possible for it to not have been straight from Amazon.
By the gallon? Must have some serious fleas in the deep-deep south.
I took the heads off from the car. I might take the block too to clean it. Valves seem alright, at least they haven't touched the pistons. I need to clean them and inspect guides and lock areas carefully.
One push rod was bent significantly, others I will check later.
I took photos of parts and a screen shot of the Ebay ad which caused this.
Last edited by Tapi; 12-09-2024 at 12:44 PM.
I'd put my money on install error. FWIW you can't really measure coil bind once installed as the lifter ends up bleeding down drastically skewing the measurement/reading. You need to check coil bind in a spring checker.
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Looks like coil bind. Was install height checked?
Oh sorry ed didn't see your post when I wrote.
I vote for hydrogen embrittlement in spring steel. I would never chrome a spring.
These small springs got into small pieces and the large springs had cracks in almost all of them.
The springs are polished to remove any surface irregularities that could result in cracking. Unless you can actually see chrome plating flaking off I'd bet they aren't plated.
The fact that some of the outer coils are smashed shorter than others indicates they've been coil bound.
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You can see copper where the shiny surface has disappeared. That thin layer is for chrome to attach to. I'll take a closer pic in a minute.
Big spring on the left and part of small one in the right. Notice the copper in places where surface has left already.
The engine is full of small shiny debris.BothSprings.jpg
I can see why you'd think they're plated.
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I like PAC. Ovate wound and shot peened.
Ovate wire is a hack workaround when there's no other way to get acceptable clearance from coil bind. Conventional round wire is stronger and less prone to failure. Unless there is a class rule that requires a single spring I'd always go with a conventional dual spring.
It's not just coil bind. Ovate wire is designed so that the cross-section has a more even distribution of stress. Stronger isn't the right way to look at it. Nor is lift. A rated spring is a rated spring. Fatigue life is key. That comes from from being ovate and the shot peening.
Beehive is for resonance.
Dual coil spring is more of a hack than anything. Second spring to keep the system out of resonance. An secondary advantage is that if the main spring breaks then a valve isn't dropped. Well. How about design a spring that's up to the task in the first place?
OK, you are right. Never use round-wire springs, use the ones that fail more often because there is a whitepaper that says they are better.
I mean whatever you want. My PAC 1218's are about to go over 100k. Idk why it's always gotta be an argument.
Your first sign should have been the price! Now you know, you can't buy a spring kit with ti anything for less than 200 bucks and it be anywhere near acceptable. When in doubt, find a professional engine builder/assembler and pay them for their experience and buy the parts from them. If they are a good one, they will probably get you close to the same money as the big retailers, assuming your willing to pay them a few percent for the time it takes to have a conversation with you and order the parts for you.
There are so many cliche phrases that can be used here but, it's true, "You got what you paid for", and boy did you get it.
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