MAF TUNING FILE / First try at tuning

[Jtouch]

Good morning - Trying to dial my MAF in a little better.. please take a look and let me know what you guys think.. where I may need to adjust. Car is a 2014 Camaro ZL-1 mods: Cold Air Inductions Intake / Headers / Catless 3" exhaust / ID850 Inj / BTR Stage 2 cam / water - meth injection / 2.55 upper pulley / 10% Lower Pulley

[cessnageek]

You are gonna want to attach the tune. But it looks like you are in open loop. Not sure that is necessary with this cam. You have a lot of spark correction at idle. You can look at over/underspeed tables to maybe smooth this out.

[Jtouch]

Here is a copy of the tune file

[edcmat-l1]

Horrible idea for that to be your first attempt at tuning. Those by far are the most blown-up engines due to lack of knowledge.

[Jtouch]

Appreciate that..

[edcmat-l1]

You need to take more timing out of it to begin with. And your knock recovery rate is way too high. You're gonna hurt it.

[Jtouch]

Lets start over. The tune is from another tuner... I've noticed alot of variances in partial throttle so I was going to try to dial the maf in and then work on the VVT table. I took 5* out of total timing over all.

[Jtouch]

Thank you for bring that up on the timing! I thought I took the 5* out but I did not. As far as the Maf sensor does that look decent?

[Alvin]

The MAF looks close, I tend to get better results 100% SD on a application like this. Just putting that out there.

The timing looks excessive but I didn't see any knock. But to be fair I didn't track down a stock file to see if the knock sensors have been desensitized to the point they don't work.

VVE looks like it needs a good bit of work.

[edcmat-l1]

ZL1 misfire.jpg

I hadn't looked at your data log until you asked how the MAF looked. And now that I have I'm worried for your engine.

First, you're in open loop and shouldn't be. To determine how well your MAF is dialed in you need to be looking at your trim correction. I don't give a hoot what a wideband says and neither does your car's PCM.

Second, it looks like you have constant misfires on both banks. Hopefully not due to engine damage already. As I stated earlier, these engines are the #1 engine blown up due to lack of knowledge both by DIY guys and pros alike. I see it all the time.

[Alvin]

The misfires are from his cam. He hasn't addressed the misfire tables for the cam yet. Or doesn't know to do that.

[edcmat-l1]

No. The O2 sensors do not look like a stage 2 cam. I'm not looking at the misfire counters.

The O2s say it has misfires at idle and well off idle where they should definitely clean up. It 100% has misfires on both banks.

Example A

misfires bank 2 1800 rpm.jpg

And worse on the other side, even higher RPM

Example B

misfires bank 1 3400 rpm.jpg

That thing should not be looking like this at 3400 rpm even with a stage 10 cam.

[Tunercharged]

No. The O2 sensors do not look like a stage 2 cam. I'm not looking at the misfire counters.

The O2s say it has misfires at idle and well off idle where they should definitely clean up. It 100% has misfires on both banks.

Example A

misfires bank 2 1800 rpm.jpg

And worse on the other side, even higher RPM

Example B

misfires bank 1 3400 rpm.jpg

That thing should not be looking like this at 3400 rpm even with a stage 10 cam.

Seems like a physical issue to create that reading on the bank2 O2 sensor. I’d look into testing and fix to bring it back in line before further tuning.

[Jtouch]

Welp all of that is completely new to me.. I'm a little unsure where to go from there. I've noticed that part throttle driving wasn't the greatest from the tuner so I wanted to work on the MAF and VVE tables but it sounds like I may need to start over completely.

[edcmat-l1]

First thing I'd do is a thorough exam of the engine mechanically speaking. Pull and inspect all the plugs. Do a compression and leakdown test. When you put the plugs back in make sure to get a good "snap" on both the coil and the plug end. This is the #1 cause by far of ignition misfires. People just don't get the wires fully seated. Second cause is cracked plugs. So while you have them out might want to just replace them.

If your compression and leakdown tests show you have an issue with a cylinder or two, then it's time for further inspection, borescope, tear down, etc.

[Jtouch]

I'll work on that this weekend. I know we did replace all plugs when we installed the cam so it is a possibility that some of the wires are not seated all the way. As far as how the car runs.. it feels great so I wouldn't thing the motor itself is hurt.

[edcmat-l1]

I'll work on that this weekend. I know we did replace all plugs when we installed the cam so it is a possibility that some of the wires are not seated all the way. As far as how the car runs.. it feels great so I wouldn't thing the motor itself is hurt.

First question is, what wires are on the car? I don't recommend anything but AC Delco wires. No MSD, etc.

First thing I'd do is go over the wires. Give each one a decent pull from the spark plug end. Try to pull them off the plugs. If they're snapped on correctly you should be able to pull on the pretty good without them coming off the plugs. If one or more isn't seated you should be able to pull it off the plug fairly easy.

[Alvin]

The misfire diag still needs to be addressed for the cam.

[JayRolla]

First question is, what wires are on the car? I don't recommend anything but AC Delco wires. No MSD, etc.

First thing I'd do is go over the wires. Give each one a decent pull from the spark plug end. Try to pull them off the plugs. If they're snapped on correctly you should be able to pull on the pretty good without them coming off the plugs. If one or more isn't seated you should be able to pull it off the plug fairly easy.

For what its worth I have had good luck with Granatelli Ceramics and even some cheaper Accel Ceramics. But I used to only run AC Delco or OEM wires on all my other cars till I came to the LS world.

[Jtouch]

First question is, what wires are on the car? I don't recommend anything but AC Delco wires. No MSD, etc.

First thing I'd do is go over the wires. Give each one a decent pull from the spark plug end. Try to pull them off the plugs. If they're snapped on correctly you should be able to pull on the pretty good without them coming off the plugs. If one or more isn't seated you should be able to pull it off the plug fairly easy.

I'll take a look at those as well.. I did not replace those since the car only had 30K miles on it but might be something that I need to take a look at to. I'm hoping it's just a plug that's not connected all the way.