can someone help clean the knock ( file included)

[goran]

i m new in this so i do not want to change stuf not knowing what i m doing
i m having knock some times so can comeone look at the file and advise how to remove it
thanks

[edcmat-l1]

You got a lot more going on than just some knock retard.

You're never going into PE. When you're getting KR it's close to 100 Kpa manifold vacuum so it should be in PE. The base fueling is WAY off as well. See the screen shot.

Trims3.jpg

You can turn your burst knock off and that might get rid of it, might not.

Also would be helpful if you'd describe the combo (more than the name of the cal file), what fuel you're using, etc. A higher mileage motor with carbon build up is going to much more knock prone. Shitty plugs can exacerbate the situation.

That engine in that vehicle is going to be under quite a bit of load. You'll most likely need to do some trans tuning to keep it from lugging the motor down.

[biholliday]

just log spark retard make sure your x y axis are the same as your high octane spark table drive around for as long as you can then copy paste special/subtract. That is how i do it

[edcmat-l1]

Some amount of knock retard is perfectly normal. Almost any and all bone stock, unmodified vehicles on the road have some amount of spark knock. It means the system is working as it should. If we weren't driving around data logging we'd never know.

To tune a vehicle to completely eliminate any and all knock retard you have to do 1 of 2 things or a combination of both. You either have to reduce the timing to the point of neutering the vehicle or dumb down the sensors enough to make it potentially disastrous for the life of the engine.

Throw in vehicle and engine modifications, combined with mileage, maintenance variations, fuel variations, etc. and chasing knock retard becomes inherently more difficult especially for all novices and most professionals.

It's important to understand what's burst knock, what's false knock and what's real. Once you figure out these three it gets easier trying to figure out how to address each.

It's also vital to understand each individual vehicle platform and what changes in parts, fuels, etc. have on the issue of KR.

Take the OP's vehicle for example. As I stated earlier it's most likely burst knock. But at the same time, the vehicle specs (and data log) show that the vehicle is being lugged down and the engine never goes into PE. So, you can take all the timing out of the timing table you want but chances are it'll never stop what's showing up in the log. If you turn off burst knock completely and don't fix anything else, chances are it'll knock for real which will then pull timing making the data log virtually the same and giving the impression that turning off the burst knock was NOT the fix.

Hopefully this helps some wrap their head around this.

[goran]

i m using toyota air box and i think it does restrict air flow bit , i have castiron hookers headers , no rear o 2 sensors , DOD deleted and that is prety much all
after correcting tire size and gearing it made big difference how it drives
all i want to get the engine to run healthy i ' m not after power
only reason i was looking at knock because some time i notice pinging in the engine
engine was totally cleaned and rebuilt about 15000 miles on it
using regular pump fuel
35" tires ,4.88 gears ,4" lift

thanks

[edcmat-l1]

i m using toyota air box and i think it does restrict air flow bit , i have castiron hookers headers , no rear o 2 sensors , DOD deleted and that is prety much all
after correcting tire size and gearing it made big difference how it drives
all i want to get the engine to run healthy i ' m not after power
only reason i was looking at knock because some time i notice pinging in the engine
engine was totally cleaned and rebuilt about 15000 miles on it
using regular pump fuel
35" tires ,4.88 gears ,4" lift

thanks

LOL that's covers 87, 89, 91, 93 octane E85 and diesel. Each of which has their own requirements.

Correctly tuning the PCM so it has what it needs, when it needs it isn't being "after power". In something like this it needs to go into PE under load. It needs to unlock the converter at the right time. It needs to downshift at the right time. All these things have an effect on whether it pings or not. None of those things is tuning for power.

[JayRolla]

I agree it should be getting into PE earlier. I know these N/A ecu's don't like to go into PE that easy. You could try changing some stuff under the power enrichment table under fuel to help it get into PE.

Hot Throttle - Can drop this table down a bit. Maybe 40% across the board. Most N/A motors like the LS3 will have something like this.
48 48 48 48 48 48 36 25 15 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

Delay RPM - Can drop this down to say 2000rpm, or even zero it out.

Enrichment Rate - Could set to say 1.0 for ramp in and out.