Stock ZR1 KR everywhere

[SPG1]

Edit: MPVI3 is on order

EDIT2: Posted the tune file from my car. A bit too busy to do an extended drive right now sadly!

I am LOSING my mind and ready to just dump it to Carvana and F off. Any sort of meaningful throttle into boost and it pulls timing according to Dashlogic. It?s never audible, so I have no idea if it?s actually knocking. I am running Sunoco 94, and it occurred the same on 93. WOT is immediate 6 degrees of KR. Add slip in and now we?re at 7.5. I stuck it into PTM mode 3 and got it to slip and BRRRTTTT the exhaust, that showed up as 2.5 degrees.

I thought it was the Attack Blue filter causing it. But it?s back to factory and I even cleaned the MAF. No change.

Sometimes I can give it partial throttle, sometimes it?s immediate 3-4 degrees of KR. Other times it?ll show next under 1.0. HUH???

You cannot drive this car avoiding boost, it totally defeats the purpose. I have reached out to numerous shops in the NJ area and I get either no response or two word answers. Thanks A holes. ECS said ?we just had a ZR1 in here and it was the IC pump.? Thanks. No I totally don?t have my temps up constantly. It is NOT TEMP RELATED. My IAT1-2 delta is 14-20 degrees. So today, IAT1 64 IAT2 79 for instance.

Is the stock tune shit? I?m stock down to the proper ZR1 air filter. I only have a solid isolator coupler and fixed bricks. Everything?s tight underneath. I am ready to give up on this hobby and move on. The monetary side of that doesn?t interest me. It?s affecting my health now. The engine is $20,000+ and I don?t want to play Russian roulette.

So one of two things are going on here, Dashlogic is showing false info, or something?s really wrong with a 19,660 mile car. It blows my mind that I just get ignored when reaching out to well known shops to get tuned and find out what?s wrong. They don?t want money? No problem.

What blows my mind is neither Palmer Performance nor Auto Meter can tell me how Dashlogic works and what PIDs it?s reading. I am done posting on CorvetteForum and they are extremely unhelpful, everybody has migrated to the C8 so the C6 boards are barren and I never get responses.

I was reading about a 2012 ZR1 from Germany on the forums, his car was pulling 5 degrees in the log. He made some MAF or PE adjustments and the next log it was gone. If I?m going that route I?d rather tune for 94 and take the 30 hp and tq gain.

Feel free to make fun of me, but riddle me this; If this was your high school dream car and it took you, 12 years to get one and 15 years to complete it, how would you feel?

EDIT2: Tune file!
2010 ZR1.hpt

[abc]

Ya, you got a lot going on here. First, there was never a stock C6 that was boosted that I know of. I'm sure if you calm down and take it to a reputable tuner, they will be able to locate the issue and likely solve it.
If you post your .HPT and .HPL of the issue we can take a look but it sounds like your not able to tune this yourself with HP tuners?

[SPG1]

Ya, you got a lot going on here. First, there was never a stock C6 that was boosted that I know of. I'm sure if you calm down and take it to a reputable tuner, they will be able to locate the issue and likely solve it.
If you post your .HPT and .HPL of the issue we can take a look but it sounds like your not able to tune this yourself with HP tuners?

Correct, I am not comfortable tuning myself and do not have an MPVI.

C6 ZR1s came from the factory boosted. Eaton TVS2300 blower making 10.5 psi.

[5FDP]

If you slapped some 100+ octane in there and it does the same thing, the knock isn't real. Add a couple gallon once you're at 1/4 tank or less.

Not sure if you can get that locally, I have a 100 and 108 octane pump just a few miles from my house but not everyone does.


Makes me wonder if the knock sensors themselves are just being a pain. They are somewhat cheap to replace but kinda suck to get at on a C6.

[SPG1]

If you slapped some 100+ octane in there and it does the same thing, the knock isn't real. Add a couple gallon once you're at 1/4 tank or less.

Not sure if you can get that locally, I have a 100 and 108 octane pump just a few miles from my house but not everyone does.


Makes me wonder if the knock sensors themselves are just being a pain. They are somewhat cheap to replace but kinda suck to get at on a C6.

No access to anything higher than 94 here. I first noticed it on 93 with my attack blue filter last January. I went to 94 thinking that would help, between that and the eventually arrival of spring, it seemed to maybe go away? Started again in the cold, seemed to get better this past summer. Idk the whole thing makes ZERO sense. I have the factory air filter back in thinking the attack blue screwed it up.

[5FDP]

I've seen so many LS engines that will have lots of knock from the factory, just the way they are sometimes.

There are 2 different types of knock as well, there is knock retard and burst knock. That scanner you are using could be showing some of the burst knock as knock retard. Burst knock is like a predicted knock, the computer thinks that it might knock so it will yank away a bunch of timing and slowly let the timing back in. When there is a big change in throttle movement or if the computer anticipates that you might floor it, that will show up as burst knock. Being a supercharged car, it doesn't take much for it to build boost either.

If it was my car, that is what I'd be watching with HP Tuners. Then I'd be turning off burst knock and adjusting the wide open throttle fueling and timing to see if it continues.

[SPG1]

I've seen so many LS engines that will have lots of knock from the factory, just the way they are sometimes.

There are 2 different types of knock as well, there is knock retard and burst knock. That scanner you are using could be showing some of the burst knock as knock retard. Burst knock is like a predicted knock, the computer thinks that it might knock so it will yank away a bunch of timing and slowly let the timing back in. When there is a big change in throttle movement or if the computer anticipates that you might floor it, that will show up as burst knock. Being a supercharged car, it doesn't take much for it to build boost either.

If it was my car, that is what I'd be watching with HP Tuners. Then I'd be turning off burst knock and adjusting the wide open throttle fueling and timing to see if it continues.

yeah I?m not sure which knock Dashlogic is showing, and the manufacturer can?t tell me.

Doesn't matter if I have month or two old gas or fresh gas, it still does it

I'm wondering if it's tripping torque management somehow. With all the systems off it still does it. If I get PTM to trigger it does seem to be less maybe?

[SPG1]

When this first started, we swapped out the plugs for new OEM, the old ones look perfect. I also went with Firecore50 plug wires with DEI heat shields. This didn?t change anything.

I can bring up short and long term fuel trims on this device for the next drive. I plugged in my little Autel handheld thing, and it was showing 2.3% LTFT both banks. But this was engine off.

I should also mention Dashlogic adds parameters to the heads up display and gauge cluster. Much nicer than having a laptop with you.

[edcmat-l1]

Some amount of knock retard is perfectly normal. Almost any and all bone stock, unmodified vehicles on the road have some amount of spark knock. It means the system is working as it should. If we weren't driving around data logging we'd never know.

To tune a vehicle to completely eliminate any and all knock retard you have to do 1 of 2 things or a combination of both. You either have to reduce the timing to the point of neutering the vehicle or dumb down the sensors enough to make it potentially disastrous for the life of the engine.

Throw in vehicle and engine modifications, combined with mileage, maintenance variations, fuel variations, etc. and chasing knock retard becomes inherently more difficult especially for all novices and most professionals.

It's important to understand what's burst knock, what's false knock and what's real. Once you figure out these three it gets easier trying to figure out how to address each.

It's also vital to understand each individual vehicle platform and what changes in parts, fuels, etc. have on the issue of KR.

Take the OP's vehicle for example. As I stated earlier it's most likely burst knock. But at the same time, the vehicle specs (and data log) show that the vehicle is being lugged down and the engine never goes into PE. So, you can take all the timing out of the timing table you want but chances are it'll never stop what's showing up in the log. If you turn off burst knock completely and don't fix anything else, chances are it'll knock for real which will then pull timing making the data log virtually the same and giving the impression that turning off the burst knock was NOT the fix.

Hopefully this helps some wrap their head around this.

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...file-included)

How are we on post #8 and there still is no data log or tune file posted???

[edcmat-l1]

Ya, you got a lot going on here. First, there was never a stock C6 that was boosted that I know of. I'm sure if you calm down and take it to a reputable tuner, they will be able to locate the issue and likely solve it.
If you post your .HPT and .HPL of the issue we can take a look but it sounds like your not able to tune this yourself with HP tuners?

Wow how is it possible you didn't know the ZR1 was supercharged?

[SPG1]

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...file-included)

How are we on post #8 and there still is no data log or tune file posted???

As I stated I do not have or know my way around HPTuners. But this seemed like the only place that could possibly help. I have reached out to known LS shops and get no answer or 3 word answers. I will not run after people to give them money.

[abc]

Wow how is it possible you didn't know the ZR1 was supercharged?

I thought they didn't start boosting them until the C7?

[SPG1]

I thought they didn't start boosting them until the C7?

The first one was indeed the C6. The C7 ZR1 had port/direct injection and an even bigger supercharger. And per the manual, max performance was achieved on 100 octane. 93 was the absolute minimum.

[edcmat-l1]

I thought they didn't start boosting them until the C7?

ZR1 C6 started in 09. The LS9 engine.

[edcmat-l1]

The first one was indeed the C6. The C7 ZR1 had port/direct injection and an even bigger supercharger. And per the manual, max performance was achieved on 100 octane. 93 was the absolute minimum.

LT4 supercharger is smaller than the LS9.

[abc]

Regardless, if you don't have a HPT MPVI unit and can't show us the .HPT and a .HPL of the issue there is not much we are gonna be able to do for you in this forum. The pro's may want to speculate for you but I'm fairly certain there gonna need more info.

[edcmat-l1]

It's most likely burst knock and perfectly normal.

[2xLS1]

Especially if it is never audible.

[SPG1]

LT4 supercharger is smaller than the LS9.

That's the Z06. The LT5 in the ZR1 has a massive blower. Much larger than the LS9.

[SPG1]

It's most likely burst knock and perfectly normal.

The dashlogic device has two PIDs for this. Knock Retard and Torque managemment knock retard. The latter never works. And the people who make the device cant tell me where it's pulling Knock Retard from. For all I know it could be total KR which shows everything.

I have seen two people say this device shows KR then they hook up HPT and it shows nothing. So you can imagine I am all over the place with this information.

I have an OBDLink MX+, is there anything I can use either iOS or PC wise that can differentiate the PIDs before I go spend hundreds on a prioprietary unit that'll never get used again?

You can see how convienent the Dashlogic device is considering it gives you the PIDs you need in the heads up display and the DIC!