New to LFX Tuning & Need Guidance

[Nick97]

hi guys

so i got this car its a 2017 VF Series 2 SV6 and the car has had work done with cam upgrade OTR etc

it was also tuned by a reputable shop in Melbourne i am currently trying to work out how to get the lumpy 6 idle back as the previous owner didn't want it so had the shop remove it and i have never played with a LFX before only a LS

i also have another issue with the car no matter what i change idle wise the car continuously sits at a idle of 1000rpm

when in first gear the car will occasionally stall as if the rpm in first is not enough to keep it going

while driving also you can kind of feel hesitation in it when at WOT

i also noticed that the High octane table has also been copied down to the low octane table and was under the assumption that this was a thing not to do

i don't expect someone to come in and give me all the answers but kind of guide me into fixing this myself so i may be able to understand how this motor works a little bit better

i will attach the tune file i grabbed from the car but i do not currently have any log files for it unfortunately as i haven't really been out driving due to health issues

thank you look forward to hearing thoughts

[KillboyPowerhead]

Do you know what cams were installed? OTR refers to a cold air intake, correct? Any other intake or exhaust mods? Auto or manual? I don't have HP Tuners with me at the moment but I'll take a look later and see if I can help.

A log will be helpful in diagnosing the stalling and hesitation. You'll want to log pretty much every torque-related parameter you have available as the torque calculations have a great impact on throttle position.

Not sure about getting the lumpy idle back. At idle the cams (variable valve timing) should be set to the home position (both cams at 0 if this is an E39A ECU) to reduce overlap for idle stability, and the "lump" is what it is. FYI, for the VVT settings, the intake cams can only advance and the exhaust can only retard, so adjusting the VVT at idle in any way (if you can even do this - haven't tried) would give more overlap and thus more lump.

The low octane table should definitely not be the same as the high table. When knock is detected the "knock factor" is increased from 0.00 toward 1.00, and as more knock is detected the further the knock factor increases to 1.00; this knock factor is used to adjust spark timing from the high table to the low - basically the timing moves from the high table to the low in proportion to the knock factor; so for a given cell, if the high table is 30 degrees and the low is 20, the overall spark timing (assuming no other influences) will be 30 when the knock factor is 0.00, and 20 when 1.00; if 0.25 then timing will be 27.5; at 0.5 then 25, at 0.75 then 22.5, etc.

[KillboyPowerhead]

Just had time to take a quick look.

The MAF could use some work, and the VVE is a real mess - cleaning up both of these will make the car run much better. The Camaro also has Airflow > Speed Density > Temp Correction (table 20200) enabled, but not sure of the effects of this. My fuel injectors are also set for 108.9 lb/h (factory specs) and yours is 111.0, but maybe 111 is correct? Hopefully Virtual Torque hasn't been messed with (probably only needs to be if boosting the engine), and based on the Camaro's base tune there isn't much difference so I think you're good there.

The cam tables (Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Desired Angle High and WOT Desired Angle High, both intake and exhaust) could use some work; the cams can move from 0 - 25 degrees (cam degrees, so 0 - 50 crank degrees) and the intake is only advancing to 5 degrees; not sure what cams are installed but I'm thinking you can probably use the full range available (could be valve clearance issues? But probably not unless they're custom cams, and even then I'd guess not because if a simple/cheap cam actuator solenoid failed it could throw the cams to full advance/retard and thus destroy the engine).

Not sure if this makes a difference, but you have DFCO active in first gear when above 16 km/h, not sure if disabling this (set cells to max) would help with stalling in first gear.

I'd start with fixing the fueling (MAF and VVE). I'll post the filters I used when I get a chance (they're not on this computer).

[Nick97]

Just had time to take a quick look.

The MAF could use some work, and the VVE is a real mess - cleaning up both of these will make the car run much better. The Camaro also has Airflow > Speed Density > Temp Correction (table 20200) enabled, but not sure of the effects of this. My fuel injectors are also set for 108.9 lb/h (factory specs) and yours is 111.0, but maybe 111 is correct? Hopefully Virtual Torque hasn't been messed with (probably only needs to be if boosting the engine), and based on the Camaro's base tune there isn't much difference so I think you're good there.

The cam tables (Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Desired Angle High and WOT Desired Angle High, both intake and exhaust) could use some work; the cams can move from 0 - 25 degrees (cam degrees, so 0 - 50 crank degrees) and the intake is only advancing to 5 degrees; not sure what cams are installed but I'm thinking you can probably use the full range available (could be valve clearance issues? But probably not unless they're custom cams, and even then I'd guess not because if a simple/cheap cam actuator solenoid failed it could throw the cams to full advance/retard and thus destroy the engine).

Not sure if this makes a difference, but you have DFCO active in first gear when above 16 km/h, not sure if disabling this (set cells to max) would help with stalling in first gear.

I'd start with fixing the fueling (MAF and VVE). I'll post the filters I used when I get a chance (they're not on this computer).

thanks for the reply so the car is a automatic OTR is a cold air intake and it has a full 3 inch custom exhaust system

i will take the car for a drive today and log the data and try to replicate the first gear stall but i assume dfco may be the cause

yes this is a e39a ecu

as i figured the high and low shouldn't be the same because you need the low to pull timing if knock is present

i kida felt like the maf wasnt done correctly as well i never looked at the VVE table either

i cant get any info on the cam specs apart from this which is on the website OCD Custom Tuning Camshafts 3.6L VVT, these camshafts are made in QLD. [email protected]"

the well known shop also wont help or answer any questions related to this car so im on my own

[Nick97]

with the cam tables i did notice that they seemed to be quite small compared to another tune i have seen but i didnt want to mess with anything until i got some advice

[Nick97]

im really keen to try using the full cam range but im also scared of doing damage lol

[KillboyPowerhead]

Maybe you can email whoever makes them for the specs. I installed Mace cams which have the same centreline as the factory cams, similar lift (0.44" vs 0.4252"), and greater duration (210 @ 0.05", not sure what the factory cams are but believe they're closer to 180 or so). Mace gave me the specs for the exhaust cam but not the intake (said they didn't have that information...? lol), but was able to find specs of the LLT and LY7 cams, and assumed the LFX cams were similar. With the Mace cams you can use the full range of VVT. See my thread for my journey tuning an LFX (first time tuner, not knowing what the hell I was - or am - doing). https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...tor-Dwell-Time

Here is the filter I used to tune the MAF and VVE; basically says:

ABS([50040.71]-[50040.71.shift(-50)]) < ([50040.71]/[50040.71.shift(-50)])*0.1 AND ABS([2311.71]-[2311.71.shift(-50)]) < ([2311.71]/[2311.71.shift(-50)])*0.1 AND [6310]<7 AND [2517.161.avg(2000)]=0 AND [2517.161.avg(-2000)]=0 AND [50118.238.avg(1000)]=1 AND [50118.238.avg(-1000)]=1

MAF airflow must change less than 0.1% over 50 ms;
VVE airflow must change less than 0.1% over 50 ms;
Torque Management = 0 (filter our gear shifts);
Fuel trim less than 7 (forget what the numbers mean offhand, but they change based on what the car is doing, like cruising, idling, coasting/DFCO is on, etc.);
Commanded EQ ratio = 1.00

My polling rate for the MAF and VVE is 50 ms but if you're polling quicker than you can adjust the filter. Other than this you just want to try to drive at steady state as much as possible. I used a long highway at night/weekends when no one was around and set cruise control from100 km/h to 130 km/h in 5 km/h increments, in 4th, 5th and 6th gear to fill out VVE is much as I could, only took a few attempts to get the VVE and MAF within 1 - 2% using STFT + LTFT. Also keep your cams set to 0/0 (both cams at home position) because you can only adjust the base VVE table (both cams at 0); there is a table for every cam angle combo, but they all adjust when the base table is changed.

Also forgot to mention, but I think your VVT is enabled at idle RPMs, whereas the Camaro has VVT disabled below 1000 RPM, and cams are at home position during idle as they should be, so you may want to consider changing that.

[Nick97]

Maybe you can email whoever makes them for the specs. I installed Mace cams which have the same centreline as the factory cams, similar lift (0.44" vs 0.4252"), and greater duration (210 @ 0.05", not sure what the factory cams are but believe they're closer to 180 or so). Mace gave me the specs for the exhaust cam but not the intake (said they didn't have that information...? lol), but was able to find specs of the LLT and LY7 cams, and assumed the LFX cams were similar. With the Mace cams you can use the full range of VVT. See my thread for my journey tuning an LFX (first time tuner, not knowing what the hell I was - or am - doing). https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...tor-Dwell-Time

Here is the filter I used to tune the MAF and VVE; basically says:

ABS([50040.71]-[50040.71.shift(-50)]) < ([50040.71]/[50040.71.shift(-50)])*0.1 AND ABS([2311.71]-[2311.71.shift(-50)]) < ([2311.71]/[2311.71.shift(-50)])*0.1 AND [6310]<7 AND [2517.161.avg(2000)]=0 AND [2517.161.avg(-2000)]=0 AND [50118.238.avg(1000)]=1 AND [50118.238.avg(-1000)]=1

MAF airflow must change less than 0.1% over 50 ms;
VVE airflow must change less than 0.1% over 50 ms;
Torque Management = 0 (filter our gear shifts);
Fuel trim less than 7 (forget what the numbers mean offhand, but they change based on what the car is doing, like cruising, idling, coasting/DFCO is on, etc.);
Commanded EQ ratio = 1.00

My polling rate for the MAF and VVE is 50 ms but if you're polling quicker than you can adjust the filter. Other than this you just want to try to drive at steady state as much as possible. I used a long highway at night/weekends when no one was around and set cruise control from100 km/h to 130 km/h in 5 km/h increments, in 4th, 5th and 6th gear to fill out VVE is much as I could, only took a few attempts to get the VVE and MAF within 1 - 2% using STFT + LTFT. Also keep your cams set to 0/0 (both cams at home position) because you can only adjust the base VVE table (both cams at 0); there is a table for every cam angle combo, but they all adjust when the base table is changed.

Also forgot to mention, but I think your VVT is enabled at idle RPMs, whereas the Camaro has VVT disabled below 1000 RPM, and cams are at home position during idle as they should be, so you may want to consider changing that.

thank you heaps i really appreciate all the info and help ill be taking a look at this tonight when i get a chance and ill try post a log file as well im also lucky enough to live on the bass highway so i have plenty of straight consistent road that i can take advantage off during the night to calibrate the maf

[Nick97]

Maybe you can email whoever makes them for the specs. I installed Mace cams which have the same centreline as the factory cams, similar lift (0.44" vs 0.4252"), and greater duration (210 @ 0.05", not sure what the factory cams are but believe they're closer to 180 or so). Mace gave me the specs for the exhaust cam but not the intake (said they didn't have that information...? lol), but was able to find specs of the LLT and LY7 cams, and assumed the LFX cams were similar. With the Mace cams you can use the full range of VVT. See my thread for my journey tuning an LFX (first time tuner, not knowing what the hell I was - or am - doing). https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...tor-Dwell-Time

Here is the filter I used to tune the MAF and VVE; basically says:

ABS([50040.71]-[50040.71.shift(-50)]) < ([50040.71]/[50040.71.shift(-50)])*0.1 AND ABS([2311.71]-[2311.71.shift(-50)]) < ([2311.71]/[2311.71.shift(-50)])*0.1 AND [6310]<7 AND [2517.161.avg(2000)]=0 AND [2517.161.avg(-2000)]=0 AND [50118.238.avg(1000)]=1 AND [50118.238.avg(-1000)]=1

MAF airflow must change less than 0.1% over 50 ms;
VVE airflow must change less than 0.1% over 50 ms;
Torque Management = 0 (filter our gear shifts);
Fuel trim less than 7 (forget what the numbers mean offhand, but they change based on what the car is doing, like cruising, idling, coasting/DFCO is on, etc.);
Commanded EQ ratio = 1.00

My polling rate for the MAF and VVE is 50 ms but if you're polling quicker than you can adjust the filter. Other than this you just want to try to drive at steady state as much as possible. I used a long highway at night/weekends when no one was around and set cruise control from100 km/h to 130 km/h in 5 km/h increments, in 4th, 5th and 6th gear to fill out VVE is much as I could, only took a few attempts to get the VVE and MAF within 1 - 2% using STFT + LTFT. Also keep your cams set to 0/0 (both cams at home position) because you can only adjust the base VVE table (both cams at 0); there is a table for every cam angle combo, but they all adjust when the base table is changed.

Also forgot to mention, but I think your VVT is enabled at idle RPMs, whereas the Camaro has VVT disabled below 1000 RPM, and cams are at home position during idle as they should be, so you may want to consider changing that.

so i managed to get 2 logs for you to take a look at today they aren't extremely long but the car did jerk in 1 of them and was about to stall and stopped

i did notice after chaging Maf and VVE that it seemed to no longer want to do it and the car handled 10x better after seeing how bad the original VVE table was im not surprised tbh

i did try with adding more to the VVT from low to high and then WOT but the car didnt like it and began to buck? so quickly removed and went back to original

no matter what i do with the cars idle it will not change from 1100 rpm its like its stuck there and there only im able to manipulate it with the VCM Scanner under special functions but thats it
i have attached the 2 logs and the tune file of where im up to as of now appreciate any feed back good or bad lol

[KillboyPowerhead]

I changed some VVT settings to suit more what I found to give me the greatest airflow, but used your values since you said you felt the car bucked, and also changed the idle RPM to match the factory Camaro settings. Take a look and see what you think, adjust as you feel necessary. Saw that the VVT was active during idle RPMs and also your RPM idle setpoints were higher, so maybe this will get you back down to ~600 RPM, 0 spark advance during idle. Also attached the factory Camaro tune for your reference.

Doing some long steady state driving will help dial in the VVE and MAF and that should help with making the engine run smoother. Then you can try doing some WOT pulls and see how the throttle reacts. A lot of people said that they can't get the throttle to open fully until at least 4000 RPM, but mines opening to 100% at closer to 3000 RPM, and even then I'm seeing a pressure ratio of 1.00 in the 2000's so the throttle is effectively open as much as it can/needs to be even below 3000. Gotta mess around with the various torque parameters (max torque, peak torque, driver demand) to manipulate the throttle.

[Nick97]

I changed some VVT settings to suit more what I found to give me the greatest airflow, but used your values since you said you felt the car bucked, and also changed the idle RPM to match the factory Camaro settings. Take a look and see what you think, adjust as you feel necessary. Saw that the VVT was active during idle RPMs and also your RPM idle setpoints were higher, so maybe this will get you back down to ~600 RPM, 0 spark advance during idle. Also attached the factory Camaro tune for your reference.

Doing some long steady state driving will help dial in the VVE and MAF and that should help with making the engine run smoother. Then you can try doing some WOT pulls and see how the throttle reacts. A lot of people said that they can't get the throttle to open fully until at least 4000 RPM, but mines opening to 100% at closer to 3000 RPM, and even then I'm seeing a pressure ratio of 1.00 in the 2000's so the throttle is effectively open as much as it can/needs to be even below 3000. Gotta mess around with the various torque parameters (max torque, peak torque, driver demand) to manipulate the throttle.

thank you i will take a look now

i also noticed the cam vvt on exhuast was set to 6 from 600rpm up to 1000rpm after i set this back to 0 i no longer have any stalling lol

im still trying to figure out how they are getting them to have the lumpy idle i have messed around a little bit but so far no new advancements in that aspect but have read something about scavenging and creating that lumpy idle

[Nick97]

its weird revers in the base point idle table is whats controlling the actual idle in park? im not sure if its just a naming issue with hp tuners or something is up with the ecu lol

[Nick97]

I changed some VVT settings to suit more what I found to give me the greatest airflow, but used your values since you said you felt the car bucked, and also changed the idle RPM to match the factory Camaro settings. Take a look and see what you think, adjust as you feel necessary. Saw that the VVT was active during idle RPMs and also your RPM idle setpoints were higher, so maybe this will get you back down to ~600 RPM, 0 spark advance during idle. Also attached the factory Camaro tune for your reference.

Doing some long steady state driving will help dial in the VVE and MAF and that should help with making the engine run smoother. Then you can try doing some WOT pulls and see how the throttle reacts. A lot of people said that they can't get the throttle to open fully until at least 4000 RPM, but mines opening to 100% at closer to 3000 RPM, and even then I'm seeing a pressure ratio of 1.00 in the 2000's so the throttle is effectively open as much as it can/needs to be even below 3000. Gotta mess around with the various torque parameters (max torque, peak torque, driver demand) to manipulate the throttle.

i have a question about VVT im confused on how you know what number to place in there like is there something i am missing? i know 0 is locked but am i advancing the exhaust by adding 5 or do i need to add -5? is there something online i can read about this?

[KillboyPowerhead]

i have a question about VVT im confused on how you know what number to place in there like is there something i am missing? i know 0 is locked but am i advancing the exhaust by adding 5 or do i need to add -5? is there something online i can read about this?

For the E39A (I noticed yours is an E39B - I didn't know there was a B but I gotta think it's very similar to the A) the intake cam can only advance, and the exhaust can only retard. 0 degrees on the intake is home position and can advance up to 25 degrees; 0 degrees on the exhaust is home position and can retard up to 25 degrees. The numbers in the tables refer to cam degrees (as opposed to crankshaft degrees). Due to me being close to sea level I only use/adjust the High Baro (and WOT) tables, and my High Baro Threshold is 95 kPa; I see yours is set to 98 kPa. If you're close to sea level and your car is reading around 98 kPa, you may want to lower that threshold, otherwise I think the ECU will want to switch back and forth between the Med and High Baro tables, if it's reading around 98 kPa.

I noticed your cam High tables can be adjusted from 0 - 32 degrees whereas mine are 0 - 128 degrees, and also see that you can adjust your cam angles by 0.125 degree increments vs 0.5, but I gotta think the two ECU's act the same. Try logging actual and desired cam angles for intake and exhaust and see what they say. The Low and Med tables accept negative values, but I don't think the ECU will actually utilize negative values and will just consider them as 0 degrees. I'm guessing.

In general you want to have both cams more advanced at lower RPMs and retard them more as RPMs increase. Knowing the specs of the cams is helpful for setting these tables, but assuming they're similar to the factory cams (same home position, lobe separation, etc., which the Mace cams are) then the profile of the cam settings will likely be similar to the factory. So for example, the intake cam is fully advanced starting at 1400 RPM I believe and stays there until 4000 RPM, then starts to retard, so you'll probably find that the best settings (that give the most airflow) will follow this same profile, you just might need to adjust the values up or down.

[Nick97]

For the E39A (I noticed yours is an E39B - I didn't know there was a B but I gotta think it's very similar to the A) the intake cam can only advance, and the exhaust can only retard. 0 degrees on the intake is home position and can advance up to 25 degrees; 0 degrees on the exhaust is home position and can retard up to 25 degrees. The numbers in the tables refer to cam degrees (as opposed to crankshaft degrees). Due to me being close to sea level I only use/adjust the High Baro (and WOT) tables, and my High Baro Threshold is 95 kPa; I see yours is set to 98 kPa. If you're close to sea level and your car is reading around 98 kPa, you may want to lower that threshold, otherwise I think the ECU will want to switch back and forth between the Med and High Baro tables, if it's reading around 98 kPa.

I noticed your cam High tables can be adjusted from 0 - 32 degrees whereas mine are 0 - 128 degrees, and also see that you can adjust your cam angles by 0.125 degree increments vs 0.5, but I gotta think the two ECU's act the same. Try logging actual and desired cam angles for intake and exhaust and see what they say. The Low and Med tables accept negative values, but I don't think the ECU will actually utilize negative values and will just consider them as 0 degrees. I'm guessing.

In general you want to have both cams more advanced at lower RPMs and retard them more as RPMs increase. Knowing the specs of the cams is helpful for setting these tables, but assuming they're similar to the factory cams (same home position, lobe separation, etc., which the Mace cams are) then the profile of the cam settings will likely be similar to the factory. So for example, the intake cam is fully advanced starting at 1400 RPM I believe and stays there until 4000 RPM, then starts to retard, so you'll probably find that the best settings (that give the most airflow) will follow this same profile, you just might need to adjust the values up or down.

thanks man you have really helped me quite a lot

unfortunately the work shop refuses to answer me or give me any details related to the cams in the car which sucks all the info i have is 211 @50 which doesn't help me in any situation

i wouldn't be surprised if they are mace cams just rebranded but they state the cams are made in QLD?

i live right next to the beach its literally 500 meters down the road so i will definitely take a look at the settings and have the car read the high baro only makes it much easier for me at the end of the day

i was under the assumption the ecu was E39a as that's what came up in the car?

i am still in shock that a professional shop / tuner will let a car leave in as bad state as this one was in the car was basically undriveable and its fuel consumption was shocking

[KillboyPowerhead]

Found this: https://abr.business.gov.au/AbnHistory/View/68135970203. Maybe RevHigh and Mace are the same? Not entirely sure what I'm looking at though... Also found this: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au...6-cams.291455/. Post #4, they say that Mace doesn't actually manufacture the cams, so maybe they're the ones that rebrand RevHigh's? That could explain why RevHigh is the "business name" and Mace is the "trading name" in that first link, and might also explain why Mace said that they didn't know the specs of their intake cams. Maybe I'll send an email to RevHigh asking about their cam specs, kinda curious myself now. Assuming the cams have the same home position/lobe separation angle and lift then you would be able to use the full range of VVT settings, so hopefully we can find out those specs. Also good to now when the exhaust valve closes so you can set your fuel SOI properly at higher RPMs (don't want to start injection too early, when the valve is still open).

I wonder if the tuner normally deals with Gen IV ECU's and figured they would take a shot at a Gen V, or maybe the previous owner screwed it all up and then sold it instead of trying to fix it? lol.

[Nick97]

i really hope you get a reply lol i havent been able to get an answer at all about the cams but everything im seeing and reading is making me think that they are the exact same as mace just rebranded

nah it was definitely the tuner who did the car as the guy i got it off took it back several times saying it wasn't right and this was the end result lol and not the first car i have heard of leaving rev highs dyno with a really bad tune and getting no help from the shop

i hope we can figure this out lol would be great if i can finally get it dialed correctly

[Nick97]

Found this: https://abr.business.gov.au/AbnHistory/View/68135970203. Maybe RevHigh and Mace are the same? Not entirely sure what I'm looking at though... Also found this: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au...6-cams.291455/. Post #4, they say that Mace doesn't actually manufacture the cams, so maybe they're the ones that rebrand RevHigh's? That could explain why RevHigh is the "business name" and Mace is the "trading name" in that first link, and might also explain why Mace said that they didn't know the specs of their intake cams. Maybe I'll send an email to RevHigh asking about their cam specs, kinda curious myself now. Assuming the cams have the same home position/lobe separation angle and lift then you would be able to use the full range of VVT settings, so hopefully we can find out those specs. Also good to now when the exhaust valve closes so you can set your fuel SOI properly at higher RPMs (don't want to start injection too early, when the valve is still open).

I wonder if the tuner normally deals with Gen IV ECU's and figured they would take a shot at a Gen V, or maybe the previous owner screwed it all up and then sold it instead of trying to fix it? lol.

is there any chance you would be happy to share your tune with me that you have made using the mace cams so i can get an idea of what the your VVT high baro settings are and try implementing some of it to see how my car goes with rev highs cams?

[KillboyPowerhead]

Here are screenshots of the High Intake and Exhaust tables; would prefer to not post my tune just because it's still a work in progress, plus it's somewhat of a unique (I guess?) setup with some not-off-the-shelf parts.

Also I heard back from RevHigh but they wouldn't tell me anything about the cams other than that they're 211/211 @ 0.05", and that they're going to be selling 226/226 cams soon. lol.

Intake cams current.jpgExhaust cams current.jpg

These settings seemed to give me the best airflow at high RPMs (> 4000); MAF was hitting over 9300 Hz. Retarding the exhaust at higher RPMs seemed to have a negative effect, but seemed I could get more airflow at the mid RPMs. Again, I'm still playing with the cams so these might not be ideal. For the cruising zones I was playing around to try and get better mileage, but whether the cams were at 0/0 or 4/8 I was still seeing 13.80 to 14.00 g/s injector flow rate (at 120 km/h), so didn't make any difference, but still intend to try more settings (intake to 8 and exhaust to 12 or 16). Also you could probably start advancing the intake cam after 400 mg airmass instead of 600, but while tuning the VVE I was seeing almost 600 mg while going up hills, so just left it like this for now.

Haven't really made many changes below 4000 RPM, although I found adding exhaust retard (overlap) at the lower RPMs like the factory does made the car feel like it picked up better (compared to cams at 0/0) at those RPMs; typically you might have less overlap at lower RPMs, but as per the factory tune and also what I've heard about these engines they seem like some overlap at the lower end.

[Nick97]

Here are screenshots of the High Intake and Exhaust tables; would prefer to not post my tune just because it's still a work in progress, plus it's somewhat of a unique (I guess?) setup with some not-off-the-shelf parts.

Also I heard back from RevHigh but they wouldn't tell me anything about the cams other than that they're 211/211 @ 0.05", and that they're going to be selling 226/226 cams soon. lol.

Intake cams current.jpgExhaust cams current.jpg

These settings seemed to give me the best airflow at high RPMs (> 4000); MAF was hitting over 9300 Hz. Retarding the exhaust at higher RPMs seemed to have a negative effect, but seemed I could get more airflow at the mid RPMs. Again, I'm still playing with the cams so these might not be ideal. For the cruising zones I was playing around to try and get better mileage, but whether the cams were at 0/0 or 4/8 I was still seeing 13.80 to 14.00 g/s injector flow rate (at 120 km/h), so didn't make any difference, but still intend to try more settings (intake to 8 and exhaust to 12 or 16). Also you could probably start advancing the intake cam after 400 mg airmass instead of 600, but while tuning the VVE I was seeing almost 600 mg while going up hills, so just left it like this for now.

Haven't really made many changes below 4000 RPM, although I found adding exhaust retard (overlap) at the lower RPMs like the factory does made the car feel like it picked up better (compared to cams at 0/0) at those RPMs; typically you might have less overlap at lower RPMs, but as per the factory tune and also what I've heard about these engines they seem like some overlap at the lower end.

sorry for late reply been busy with christmas haha

of course rev high wont give any info on the cams makes it hard to tune without it

i understand not wanting to share the file thats all good i appreciate the screen shots of the VVT will give me an idea on what to play around with numbers wise

i currently now have the car in a driveable state without stalling or bucking and the VVE is so much better and the fuel consumption is not as bad as it was when i first got it so im pretty happy with myself

im nearly convinced they are mace cams just rebranded it will be interesting to see if mace also starts to sell these other cams or are already selling them