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Thread: Another way to correct wideband offset.

  1. #1

    Exclamation Another way to correct wideband offset.

    This is for the LM1 and LC1. Its so you dont have to use a custom PID and are able to use the stock HPT EIO input. It makes things much happier. It worked perfect for my LC1 and Im going to do it to my LM1 tomorrow. I pulled it from another thread from a while ago that I remembered.



    REMEMBER THAT THE ADJUSTMENTS ARE MADE IN LOGWORKS. NOT HPTUNERS.
    and this is using the lm-1 presets in hptuners.

    Start up HP Tuners and You want to look at table 4.
    This will give you an average of the WB. Then with the ignition on, WB all hooked up and HP Tuners hooked up but not logging

    open logworks:

    1) Go to the advanced tab

    2) Then uncheck the high imp box for heater warmup

    3) Put in 2.30 into there for the voltage for heater warmup

    4) hit ok

    5) then program

    6) Close logworks

    7) Turn off LM-1

    8) Turn on LM-1

    9) Start to scan right away

    10) Before the o2 sensor heats up all the way note what the average AFR is, we want this number to be 14.7.

    11) If it is higher than 14.7 raise your voltage and repeat steps 1-10 until you reach 14.7:1 AFR average, or close to it (14.67-14.73 is acceptable). If it is higher than 14.7:1 you want to lower your voltage...ect. (I think this is right, could be wrong with which way to go but I think you get what is going on by now, maybe haha). If the voltage is in range go to step 12.

    12) Enter a low voltage, around 0.000-0.250 into the heater warmup voltage and program it according to the previous steps in 1-10. See what the average voltage is.

    13) Once you know the average voltage via the scanner, once again make SURE you only look at the value when the sensor is warming up, take note of this average value. Open the logworks and go to the proper analog tab that you have been adjusting for. There will be a button to hit towards the bottom to change from lambda to AFR, click the AFR circle. In the first line put the voltage and AFR reading in their proper spots, then program.

    14) Go to the advance tab and put something in from 4.500-5.000 volts for the heater warmup. We will repeat the steps like the one you just did to determine the average AFR for this. Once you find it, enter the voltage and AFR in the analog tab in the second row after clicking the AFR circle once again to the right of these boxes.

    15) Now look at the bottom, you see 14.7, follow that line up to the cross in the graph and see which voltage that refers to. If it is the voltage you used earlier to get 14.7:1 AFR in the scanner, you are done. If not try to adjust the voltages for the anologs some more, redo the AFR stuff and re-enter it until you get the proper voltage for 14.7 in the chart under the analog tab.

    it seems harder than it really is, once u see things adjusting "during the sensor heater warmup cycle" its easy cheesy.
    Last edited by Country Boy; 04-04-2007 at 07:30 PM.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    cant be done this way...
    by changing the total AFR range you are changing the volts/x.xxx part of the formula....
    which skews the steps it takes to get to the correct AFR...

    nice try.....but it doesnt quite work correctly that way....

    if you have an offset voltage it add it to the whole range of everything which is why it as to be in the +xx portion of the formula
    volts/value + (change it here)
    -Scott -

  4. #4
    It did work for me with my LC1 and it was dead nuts when I rebuild my whole VE table when I had my turbo setup. I could drive around all day in OLSD and have a perfect 14.7 afr.

  5. #5
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    a good example of the math would be somebody that has a .3v offset

    instead of 0-5 volts they have .3-5volts
    range changes from 5 volts to 4.7
    to exagerate this I'll use a 10AFR total range like the LM1 does with 10AFR at 0volts and 20 AFR at 5 volts

    volts/(5/10)+10
    volts/0.5 +10

    volts/(4.7/10)+10
    volts/0.47+10

    now for the math portion to show why it deosnt work
    lets assume volts = 2 for easy math
    2/0.50 +10 = 14
    2/0.47 +10 = 14.255

    as you can see it makes the whole equation wrong

    if you have .3 difference then 0.3 = 10 AFR and 5.3 = 20 AFR and your equation still stays the same as volts/0.50 +10..but your AFR gets shifted to be 9.4
    so
    volts/0.50 + 9.4
    gets you the right value in this example
    getting there is volts/equation= AFR difference needed

    so volts = 0.3
    0.3/.50 = 0.6
    since we have a +voltage offset we need a -diference AFR
    Last edited by S2H; 04-05-2007 at 10:51 AM.
    -Scott -

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Country Boy
    It did work for me with my LC1 and it was dead nuts when I rebuild my whole VE table when I had my turbo setup. I could drive around all day in OLSD and have a perfect 14.7 afr.
    and what I'm telling you is that it doesnt work..
    it may have been accurate at 14.7 because you set it up to work at 14.7...but it needs to be accurate everywhere

    its simple(LOL)algebra and trig and its the way the math works...you cant change the math and how the math works...
    it woul be like telling somebody that "2+2"=5...it just doesnt work that way
    -Scott -

  7. #7
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    ps...dont make me "math" you people to death..LOL

    its a big part of my day job..LOL
    -Scott -

  8. #8
    I understand where youre coming from, but on my old setup, it was dead accurate on HPT, the LC1 guage and on the dyno. All read what they were commanded to. If I commanded 10.8, I got 10.8, if I commanded 11.6, I got 11.6. It couldnt have been too far inaccurate.

    Not trying to prove you wrong. I was just trying to add a different approach that may work and seemed to work me and a few other people.

  9. #9
    i was sent the information that is posted in this thread way back when i was struggling to link the lm1 and hpt.

    it appreared to work.......appeared.

    it is incorrect.

    once SE posted this one:
    http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

    i saw just how far off the original one was that was sent to me and i had used it for several months.

    the one posted in this thread seems to have worked its way around the planet a dozen times....cant seem to stop it..

    again, it APPEARS to be correct, but on the hi and low ends of the afr it will be off.

    the one that SE posted is dead nuts.

    where is that time machine when u need it....sigh.

    reminder, this one works perfect:
    http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

    http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

    http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

    EDIT: oh yeah, thank you SE, your a life saver!!! woot!
    Last edited by usd2sing; 04-25-2007 at 07:02 PM.

  10. #10
    Advanced Tuner INTHERED's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer
    ps...dont make me "math" you people to death..LOL
    its a big part of my day job..LOL
    You seem to know what you are talking about so I will ask you this question.
    I have a custom PID for my LM1 due to offset problems, how can I use it when I go to create my custom A/F error PID ?

    Thanks >>>>> INTHERED
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