f150 2019 limited with turbo smart and s&b intake logs any idea to improve it
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Your missing some important turbo related channels in your log but from what you have the log looks ok, nothing is hurt. But you are leaving power on the table. You can do some work on your intake cam angles, wide open throttle fueling (your going down to .72 lambda which is too rich if your on high octane pump gas). You could also do some more mapped points work, these trucks respond well to activating mapped point 14 at WOT throttle for some off the line power.
i am very new to the hptuner but i am trying to understand how it workOriginally Posted by bmpcamry09
i went for a tuner for some help and he help alot with torq and the power of the car i will try to share new Loggs after the tune and we will see the different together and thin you can tell me if his tune was good or need more work , thanks for your respond
Last edited by faisal.g88; 01-07-2025 at 03:30 PM.
Try changing Exh Cam angles to 17 or so. It will really make nice gains
bmpcamry09 and Volstang,
I'm really curious if you would be willing to share more about cam angle suggestions for the GEN2 3.5 EBs. I used to get a lot of various NA GM products with cam angle refinement but I have not done any of this on EBs yet. Would be really thankful if you could share more.
good test combine.hpllog for me reviow it.hplai log tuning f150 my car 19 wot.hpl this the latest logs i have i tride ai for help
see the my last logs is there somthing missing from the log channels and i will add it and log again, i don't know how to do the table using my logs , thanks for your help
i don't know if it safe for the car or not ?
Sorry man just saw this, been a long couple weeks.
I have found good success in top end power by tweaking intake cam timing, but leaving exhaust alone. At least on Gen 2 3.5 engines. By redline, I usually have subtracted 10 degrees on the intake side and interpolate down to stock levels around 3500. Pulling back that VCT that extra 10 degrees close to redline really helps these things pull past 4000 and all the way up to 6000. BUT, that said, you have to raise maximum injection angle up to 270 to make sure your getting enough fuel for the extra air. Rinse and repeat, if a little lean, may also have to tweak some SOI and EOI stuff. I also like to bump fuel pump voltage up about 1 volt on the high ends of the table. Keep WOT lambda around .77-.80 and she will be happy. Bump up the typical turbo limiters too to try to keep that boost strong to redline.
Once these changes are made on the engine side, make sure your trans WOT limiters are adjusted. Seems like a ton of these are set at 5600 for first gear then 5200 for the rest. With the intake timing adjusted, fuel pump voltage increased, and the turbo limiters bumped up, it'll pull hard to 6000 and hold 17 psi or so to redline.
In some training courses I've taken, there is more talk about exhaust side of things on the 2.3 engines, but I haven't had the opportunity to tune any in person so I haven't got to play around with it.
Last edited by bmpcamry09; 02-08-2025 at 04:22 PM.
bmpcamry09,
Thanks so much for all of this! I'm going to add these changes to my GEN2 3.5 Ecoboost rigs right away. Have you seen similar gains with GEN1 3.5 EBs?
I'm pretty curious what can be done with the VVT on a 2.3 as well. I took quite a bit of time to tune a 2019 Ranger and was really happy with the results so far.
Gen 1 should be able to benefit as well! Similar tables in that regard. I keep a much harder eye on fuel pressure on gen 1 though.
Thanks again!
Just sitting down here to make these changes on my 2020 Expedition. To be clear, we are looking at the 38158 "Optimum Power - Intake Valve Opening Angle vs. RPM"? No need to adjust 38151 Intake Valve Opening Angle vs. VCT Mapped Points?
I just got done with a 2020 Expedition for a guy on the expeditionforum. Ill send you a PM
PM sent IARLLC.
For others following, 38158 is the one for WOT opening angle.
Also, don't forget to up your injector duty cycle in addition to voltage. I usually set DC at 1 or 1.1 with max injection angle of 270.
I'm sorry for not getting back on this sooner. I had quite a bit of travel then some work on my Expedition before I could test it. We pulled the 8.8" rear and installed a 9.75" last week and finally installed the big intercooler. I finally got to drive it with bmpcamry09 intake cam recommendations and activating mapped point 14. Exactly as bmpcamry09 said, activating mapped point 14 gave it quite a bit more immediate lunge right off of the line. And the the intake came changes helps it hang on up to redline. I have not had a good chance to log it yet to see the numbers more factually but you can feel a solid difference.
One of my complaints up until now with the 10-speed is that you get such a short time accelerating in each gear. With the small 3.5 turbo motor pulling power even before it starts to shift then taking a bit of time to get the power back up right after a shift I kinda missed my 6-speed 2016 Expedition. But with these 2 changes I feel like it makes better use of the time in each gear.
I'd just like to thank bmpcamry09 publicly.
Thank you sir. Means more than you know!
I’ve been doing a lot of testing with pedal map ratio (not the basic pedal map but the OSS multiplier one) stuff as of late too. Figured out that seems to be the way some of the big guys out there are getting that juicy feel around town. Probably make a post soon.
It only tickles that mapped point 14 for a second, but it helps! You can play around with airmass multiplier under your throttle settings as well. Factory it’s 15%. I think on your file I put it at 30. Seems to help it get out of the hole
IARLLC,
Something else, if you Google "Cobb 10R80 Excel", go to the Cobb site link, scroll down a bit and download the excel spreadsheet. It will give you a good visual representation of your gear change spacing. Factory calibrations have tight spacing which translates to a short time in each gear. I like to evenly spread out with the same numbers from 0-20% APP on the OSS shift tables, then work my way up from there. Usually set 1/2 shift around 400 up to 20 percent APP. Then set 9>10 shift at 2600 OSS up to 20 percent app. Then find the median numbers and fill in everything in between. Then interpolate and smooth and copy that new OSS chart over to that Excel sheet. You'll have a much better spread and it'll spend more time in gear. On some of the latest calibrations I have made, I have actually been keeping the 1>3 skip shift in place at APP under 27.5 which helps with the busy feeling shifting.
bmpcamry09,
Much thanks again! For those reading I should say that I did not copy all of bmpcamry09's changes over to my file. Probably my shift spacing would have been better already if I had done that. I mainly applied the 2 changes that are written about above. Even without increasing the airmass multiplier, the 2 changes that I mentioned are well worth applying. I might still copy the airmass multiplier changes too
I'd used one accel sheet for working out shift spacing/scheduling several years ago. I have not used this one yet. I'm hoping that arranging the spacing this way can give the motor more time to push. My other issue on the 10-speed spacing:
Probably my biggest motivation to put the 1>3 skip back is the super lazy 1>2 at light throttle. Mathmatically my 1>2 and 2>3 are spaced decently but the 1>2 at light throttle takes so long it is almost time for the 2>3 by the time 2nd is applied. I've done a little work to reduce down time between gears but I'm not a 10R80 tuning expert yet. I can build them and tune for noticable improvements in their behavior but I really appreciate your input on all this.
No problem. That 1-2 shift is usually either too firm or too lazy on everything I tune. Adjustments to the base inertia settings, element 0 oncoming ramp tables, and shift verification times can straighten that out easily. Just gotta play around with it. Almost every one I tune is different.
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