How to Program LM-1/LC-1 WB (EASY)

[HeadstrongMS]

Okay I have read some of these forums and Formulas lol. Okay this is very simple believe it or not. All you need to do it have the HP Tuners and the LM-1 be in sync with each other. Example if the HP tuners is 0v is 10afr and the LM1 is 0v is 8 you are going to be all out of wack and believe it or not all you have to do is sync them.

1st - connect lm-1 or lc1 to your comp and open lm programmer. White wire is analog 1 red is analog 2.

2nd - Okay this is were a problem happens. Go to the analog 1 tab at the top. On the bottom right check AFR not Lambda. Top left box volts set to 0v, to the right of that box AFR set that to 10. (Okay not if you have ever tried this before this is were you can run into a problem because the program changer th volts from 5 to 4.996 and the 20AFR to 20.01). Soooooo we are not going to set 5v to 20.... We are going to set 4v to 18 afr now program. (After that if you go to the advanced tab you will see a scale at the top i like 1/16 but thats up to you, you might want to play with this what this does is how fast the signal switches)

3rd - Open vcm scanner

4th - Open Table Display

5th - Click on the EIO input you have the LM-1/LC-1 connected to.
- Right Click Choose insert
- Go to User Defined
- Config user defined
- Name it LM-1 Or LC-1 Or whatever you want
- Sensor set to Air Flow Ratio
- Units set to afr
- Make sure Linear is checked
- The box next to the + set to 10
- The box under it to the right set to .5
- Close it (DO NOT HIT THE RED X)

6th - Right click on the same EIO Input
- Go to User Defined Again
- Whatever name you saved you setting as double click on it.

7th - GOOD TO GO START TUNING.

[S2H]

Okay I have read some of these forums and Formulas lol. Okay this is very simple believe it or not. All you need to do it have the HP Tuners and the LM-1 be in sync with each other. Example if the HP tuners is 0v is 10afr and the LM1 is 0v is 8 you are going to be all out of wack and believe it or not all you have to do is sync them.

1st - connect lm-1 or lc1 to your comp and open lm programmer. White wire is analog 1 red is analog 2.

2nd - Okay this is were a problem happens. Go to the analog 1 tab at the top. On the bottom right check AFR not Lambda. Top left box volts set to 0v, to the right of that box AFR set that to 10. (Okay not if you have ever tried this before this is were you can run into a problem because the program changer th volts from 5 to 4.996 and the 20AFR to 20.01). Soooooo we are not going to set 5v to 20.... We are going to set 4v to 18 afr now program. (After that if you go to the advanced tab you will see a scale at the top i like 1/16 but thats up to you, you might want to play with this what this does is how fast the signal switches)

3rd - Open vcm scanner

4th - Open Table Display

5th - Click on the EIO input you have the LM-1/LC-1 connected to.
- Right Click Choose insert
- Go to User Defined
- Config user defined
- Name it LM-1 Or LC-1 Or whatever you want
- Sensor set to Air Flow Ratio
- Units set to afr
- Make sure Linear is checked
- The box next to the + set to 10
- The box under it to the right set to .5
- Close it (DO NOT HIT THE RED X)

6th - Right click on the same EIO Input
- Go to User Defined Again
- Whatever name you saved you setting as double click on it.

7th - GOOD TO GO START TUNING.

I'm not 100% sure what you are trying to do...
all you have done is shifted a value in the LM1 to equal teh same thing it already was to begin with
the cheaper widebands we use(meaning anything that is not a 4gas wideband) is only really accurate to .1 (one tenth)and if you believe you are getting any more accurate than that you need to see how our cars work and undertstand that you wont ever get there....NASA couldnt even get there with our crude vehicles
so that .01 AFR and .004 volts is not going to equal anything

the programmer changes the value to its closest resolution...the programming used to build it was done with hexidecimal resolution..so thats all the better its going to get..
If it moves by that .01 or .004....dont worry about it...you are splitting unnecessary hairs




and remember If you change the volts in your program you may have to change the formula you use as well...totally depending on what you set the volts and AFR to

its based off of something called a transfer function...
the way a transfer function works it you have to set the formula to be correctand then add or subtract a value to equal its start point
(volts/0.5) this is the formula portion..this is fugured out by taking total voltage represented by the higherst AFR value desired(if 18 is represented by 4 volts and 4 volts is the maximum)... divided by AFR Range(10~18 = AFR range for a total range of 8 AFR)
volts/ (4/8)
+10 this is the offset to equal 0

volts/ (4/8) + 10

which again is

volts/0.5 + 10

and if you shoudl have any issues with them lining up then either your formula portion of it is wrong or your offset is wrong...

[HeadstrongMS]

I am not saying your way is wrong. I am saying that is alot more complicated, the problem with the wb and the hp tuners is the hp tuners has therr settings on the lm1 to god knows what if the LM-1 has there 0-5v at 5-25 afr and the HP tuneres is reading 10-20 at 0-5 the settings will be off. So all that has to be done is the 2 need to have the same values and they will be damn close with my way of doin it. I said the HP Tuners should be set to 10 --- .5 now the hp tuners is set up 10afr = 0v and 20afr = 5v. with the lm1 programer it dosnt like using a 0-5 volt sweep which it does anyway if you put your values in as 0v = 10 afr and 4v = 18afr that means 5v = 20 afr. you can do 0v = 10, .5= 11, 1=12, 1.5=13, 2=14, 2.5=15, 3=16, 3.5=17, 4=18, 4.5=19, 5=20. It dosnt matter as long as the 2 has the same values.

[S2H]

I am not saying your way is wrong. I am saying that is alot more complicated, the problem with the wb and the hp tuners is the hp tuners has therr settings on the lm1 to god knows what if the LM-1 has there 0-5v at 5-25 afr and the HP tuneres is reading 10-20 at 0-5 the settings will be off. So all that has to be done is the 2 need to have the same values and they will be damn close with my way of doin it. I said the HP Tuners should be set to 10 --- .5 now the hp tuners is set up 10afr = 0v and 20afr = 5v. with the lm1 programer it dosnt like using a 0-5 volt sweep which it does anyway if you put your values in as 0v = 10 afr and 4v = 18afr that means 5v = 20 afr. you can do 0v = 10, .5= 11, 1=12, 1.5=13, 2=14, 2.5=15, 3=16, 3.5=17, 4=18, 4.5=19, 5=20. It dosnt matter as long as the 2 has the same values.

the default setting of the LM1(the way it comes from the factory and the way it is set when you pull it out of the box and plug it in to use it with no changes) matches what the LM1 PID in HPT is....


and if you put in 4v for 18...it will not output 5 volts..it will stop at 4 volts.... its made to do that so that if you need to use that output to go into a device that doesnt handle 5 volts then you can set it to a lower value that you can use...an example being if you wanted to use it on something that was set up to handle 2 volts max..and 5v would burn it out..then you could set LM1 to be 0v~2v with AFR of anywere from 7.35 to 22.39 AFR

[HeadstrongMS]

Yes but Like I said for the closest reading the lm-1 does not let it go to 5v it goes to 4.66v. If your going over an 18afr you have more problems then your setting at a lean cruse at the most, most you should have a 16.2 afr.