I have 3 questions, I am tuning the MAF and I know I will never hit all the cells, does anyone know which cell or range I should be hitting and about smoothing, should this be only done by hand or is it good to also use the smoothing command?
and when I get knock, I have been going to the corresponding cells in the main spark table and decreasing by that ammount and I am quite a bit less spark than stock...is this the right approach?
Thanks for the help!
2002 WS-6, Built A-4, 3000 stall, Lid and K&N, ported TB, 220/224, .551, 114 LSA, roller rockers, LT's, 2.5" true duals with X-pipe, Koni adjustable front and Bilstein rears with Hotchkis springs, front bar and bushings, welded SFC's, boxed LCA's., Midnight Blue trimmed in silver, silver face gauges, custom hood bird, HPT (with lot's of tuning)
Driving normally, plus three or four 2nd gear runs from idle to red-line should populate all the MAF cells you'll ever hit in day to day driving. Get them all to -2, or so and you're golden. WOT cells should show up as 0 when checked against fuel trims.
For timing, I normally take out one-half of the KR value. It's always one cell that starts the KR string, and if it doesn't start, it doesn't knock. If you've made a number of changes, figure out what you've taken out from your stock value and add half of it back in. Then log again.
Best regards,
Bill
Silver 2003 C5 roadster, M6, Euro red/amber tails, Z06 Ti mufflers, Z06 2 cat H-pipe, Z06 airbox, and HPTuners s/w - available to any Corvette or other GM vehicle in Calgary, and also for Ford and Dodge products, including Cummins
Thanks Bill!
2002 WS-6, Built A-4, 3000 stall, Lid and K&N, ported TB, 220/224, .551, 114 LSA, roller rockers, LT's, 2.5" true duals with X-pipe, Koni adjustable front and Bilstein rears with Hotchkis springs, front bar and bushings, welded SFC's, boxed LCA's., Midnight Blue trimmed in silver, silver face gauges, custom hood bird, HPT (with lot's of tuning)
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