Holy Moly, please help

[Julex]

Hello, just a quick briefing of what happened, but basically I was moving slowly through construction area, and when I came out of it my car made a audible backfire then a second later another backfire happened. It was loud enough where the cop came over to check, cause he thought there was a gun shot. Anyways the car just died, while still rolling at 25 miles an hour, till it totally just stopped right at the light. I tried starting her a few times and nothing, barely sounded like it wanted to crank over. Anyways I checked the engine, and no hole for a piston, and no oil or other substances oozing out. I checked underneath all was fine, I just got her back up after 2 weeks of doing little things here and there and also a new clutch install so I checked the axles and the tranny, all good. Anyways I got a construction worker to help me move it off the road and AAA truck was right there so he was going to help me also, and I tried starting it and viola la it started up, running normal, so I drove it home. Luckily I had turned HPT on for the first time just to get a log to make sure she was running nice and clean since the tear down. So anyways here is the log file, basically I have a VERY good idea what it might be, but I want to see what you guys think, before I point the finger at what I think the problem is.

Also I noticed just before it died the ETC spiked up, funny thing is my foot never blipped the pedal like that through the whole time, so that is another thing that is wierd.. And I also had this code on the MIL [PCM] P0335 - CKP Sensor A Circuit Performance (History) (Immature)

[redhotjamedjimi]

you iat2 is super high. and there no long term trims or knock? thats weird.
the iat 2 so high it was retarding your timing under 0 at times. maybe why it died and it wouldnt start. you may want to consider a cobra heat exchange with a 2.7 pulley even tho you didnt use much boost when it backfired under boost youd be sorry. as for the ckp error i dont know what that is so i wont guess.

i have a similar story. i just tuned my cobalt and drove down the road. when it hit pe i got 3 codes. 1 map/maf correlation, one too rich bank one. and another code. anyway a engine pwr disable came up on my tach and it would barely idle with full throttle and it took 10 minutes to turn around and get home. i reset the codes and it was fine. scared the piss out of me. but its been running fine ever since. sometimes shit happens.

[Julex]

IAT 2 is hot because of the short ram it's fine though I was idling for a long while. It runs much much colder once I start driving. It doesn't retard the timing, the timing is just kind of not perfect right now since I've been mostly working on fueling when I have spare time. there is no burst knock under 2k due to me changing the burst knock settings, other than that my car is knock free. And I was running in SD with no LTFT, I've been doing that for over a year now and works great.

The CKP code is a crankshaft sensor A code... WHY it threw it I don't know, hoping maybe someone else knew.

The real thing I THINK it is, is I have been running on 42 lbers for way over a year and running them at 150% idc. So I think they just might have had it and maybe one just stuck wide open, dumped fuel in and caused enough pressure drop to stop adding anymore fuel in the other cylinders, then probably flooded itself, hence why I couldn't start it for 10 minutes, I assume during that time some of the fuel evaporated out of the exhaust valves, enough where it would allow the piston to rise. If this was the problem then the bangs might have maybe been to much fuel in the cylinder where the piston just slammed into it (liquid does not compress) hence why my engine just totally stopped for some reason when it made the backfire sound.

I don't know, it's running great now I just wanted to get to the bottom of this. I'm replacing injectors, just might be awhile due to clutch.

Thank you

[potatoe]

I have had mine flood out several times while driving like that. It cranks over extremly fast.. like no compression, but starts right up after about ten minutes when it dries out. I would think that the dtc may have come frrom the extended cranking and no start.

[Rodimus_Prime]

150% duty cycle and you THINK thats bad lol

[Julex]

I never said I didn't know it's bad, I've known it's bad for a year but when your like me and have no money due to mistakes in life theres nothing I can do but to be smart and stay off the pedal. Thanks potatoe I would have never thought about the cranking code like that. Greatly appreciated.

[redhotjamedjimi]

you could always unplug your injectors and crank for a minute the heat and spark should get rid of the extra fuel quickly.

[Julex]

I'm guessing it shouldn't happen anytime soon, the car is still running fine. But I'll def keep my 10mm socket in the car just incase it happens again, and I'll unplug the injectors. Thanks.

[MMGT1]

Hey guys. I think that your car will disable fuel when gas is to the floor while cranking. My car does(Grand Am) Check yours out before you disable the fuel rail.

[Julex]

Disable the fuel rail? You mean remove it. Gas was not on the floor through that whole day. I've never cranked it over with the gas pedal even being touched. Unless somehow my ETC wire got pinched by something and grounded itself which through it open for a quick second, but it went back to the normal closed position.