tuning 06 5.3-help

[jakebdb56]

Well right now I'm trying to tune the timing of the motor and thus far have been able to compare my tune to some others on here and go off of their settings.
I really don't know what a good PE eq ratio is for my truck so I've been messing around a bit trying to find something that feels good. Right now there isn't any KR with the tune. The first log file shows 2 spots where KR kicked in but I changed the spark tables accordingly so there isn't any KR showing up in those banks. Anyways, if some of yall could take a look at the tune and the log files and give me some pointers that would be awesome.
thanks in advance,

Jake

[jakebdb56]

did a little looking around and moved the PE EQ to 1.138. I'm assuming that the negative timing advance in the histogram is from revving the motor and the rpm's dropping back down? btw during the tune I reset the fuel trims to see what the LTFT and STFT's would do. The truck pulls a lot better than it used to with the basic tune. anyways, any thoughts or suggestions?
thanks again,
jake

edit:figured out the negative timing was between shifts. still digging through the logs and looking at stuff. I really need to upgrade to pro and hookup my wideband.

[5_Liter_Eater]

What have you changed apart from the PE ratio? I haevn't compared it to a stock tune but the IAT retard is present at and above 98 degrees, torque management looks to be enabled still, what is your tuning strategy? Have you done anything with airflow calibration? It doesn't look like it because your MAF and VE don't look modified and your fuel trims are pretty high. Worry about spark after you get your AFR dialed in.

[jakebdb56]

what part looks like the trq mgmt is still enabled?
I haven't done anything yet with the airflow calibration, is there a good tutorial here on the board?(will do a search in a second)
The changes I've made from stock is: trq mgmt delete, adjust PE enable rate, adjust PE eq ratio, modified the spark tables a bit, COT is disabled, and a few other items. The IAT I bumped over one column since it pulls so much timing. Is it okay to clear out the table or should I keep it stock? I'm not taking in more than a 105* IAT on a HOT day, it stays around 85-95 right now since it's Houston as you know it lol.
Basically my strategy right now is to just go through almost everything in HPT and research about it. Some stuff I don't bother with since it's way out of my league to understand right now, but I'm trying to get ahold of the principles behind a lot of the fueling/spark stuff within HPT. Would you recommend me starting from scratch off the stock tune again? I'll post the stock tune in a second, it's the only stock 06 silverado 5.3 tune in the repository.
Thanks,
jake

[jakebdb56]

here's the stock file

also, just a little side note how do I get the updated OS for my truck? I know there's been 2 newer OS versions for my truck since I got it, but I don't know how to upgrade. I don't really want to go into the dealership, but I may have to.

[5_Liter_Eater]

-k- the stock tune helps. I'm not an auto tranny expert by any means but under torque management, torque reduction there are still a torque percentage being taken out. Now if zeroing out that table would cause damage to the tranny then I can see why.

Are you having trouble with your LT's throwing secondary O2 codes? You have a lot of O2 DTC's ignored, including primary O2's. Unless you're pitching codes I'd leave them all stock.

You have enabled the ETC rev limiter. This seems like a good idea but I have seen some pretty poor effects on shifting (manual) performance with this enabled. I enabled it just for fun on my olf blown C5 and it lost a few tenths. I'd suggest sticking with the stock limiter. May want to lower the P/N and bad VSS limiters too, unless you want to be able to rap it out in park.

Airflow tables are stock, more on that later.

PE: Pick an AFR and flatline the PE. So if you want 13:1 put all 1.13's in. Adjust this on the dyno to find peak tq and hp AFRs at different RPM's.

Spark: zero out the 98 degree IAT spark base adder (acutally remover). WOW! Timing is drastically different than stock! If you're not pinging that is a much better looking map! Thumbs up on that one. Consider taking a few degrees out of the low octane map IMO though. Knock sensor settings are stock. I like that too.

TM: I still see some room for improvement here. I would max out the max tq vs: rpm table as well as the ETC TPS limit table. I would also zero out the spark retard vs: torque reduction and torque loss vs: spark retard.


For the OS you have a quandry. You can either find the latest OS for your truck in the repository and burn the credits to do a write entire to your PCM and then modify it like you have your current tune or if you're still under warranty, take the truck to the dealer and complain of one or more of the problems that the OS upgrades are supposed to fix. They will flash it with a Tec-II with the latest OS and you can read that off and store it as your new stock tune and then modify it as you have your current tune. Even if you're not under warranty they may do it for a minimal charge.

OK, airflow. Start by plotting the LTFT's against the MAF table. There should be histos to pilfer to do this. Copy and paste the LTFTs that appear in the MAF table histo into the MAF table (copy, multiply by %). Keep doing this until your fuel trims go slightly negative. Stay out of PE because once you go into PE your fuel trims lock out so they are no good to you. Once you get your WB in you can tune the entire MAF table end to end.

[jakebdb56]

Thank You!
Since I have the LT's I was throwing quite a few codes so I set ignore to all the sensor 2 codes (rear sensor correct?). I got the timing tables from a few other tunes on the board and it feels pretty good. I'm going to go get the laptop out of my truck and mess around with the tune and I'll repost it when I'm done. Thanks again for your help you've been a life saver. You going to go out to HRP any time this fall? I'd like to see that C6 run
later,
jake

[5_Liter_Eater]

Banks 1 and 2 refer to left and right sensors. Sensors 1 and 2 refer to primary (front) and secondary (rear) O2's. You shouldn't need to disable any codes for the primary O2's. If you want to arbitrarily disable all the seconrdary O2's thats not a problem.

No plans to go out to HRP. I'm gun shy ever since my GF put my blown C5 into the wall last year (which is why I have the C6). That and the fragility of the '05 vette diffs has me scured it will grenade. I'm sure when it cools down I'll get the itch. I wouldn't expect much out of it. Mid 12's maybe.

[jakebdb56]

Banks 1 and 2 refer to left and right sensors. Sensors 1 and 2 refer to primary (front) and secondary (rear) O2's. You shouldn't need to disable any codes for the primary O2's. If you want to arbitrarily disable all the seconrdary O2's thats not a problem.

No plans to go out to HRP. I'm gun shy ever since my GF put my blown C5 into the wall last year (which is why I have the C6). That and the fragility of the '05 vette diffs has me scured it will grenade. I'm sure when it cools down I'll get the itch. I wouldn't expect much out of it. Mid 12's maybe.

Damn, sorry to hear about the C5, is the GF alright? I'll be going out once it gets cooler to see what the truck does when it's tuned better.
I think I currently have B1S2 and B2S2 ignored in the tune. At least I know one of the sensor 2's was since it's not plugged in lol.

[jakebdb56]

here's the 5LiterEater special tune
I'm gonna go flash it and drive it around a little and log some.

[jakebdb56]

btw, which table in the VCM Editor would I be pasting the LTFT's into? primary VE?

[5_Liter_Eater]

If you want to, start with VE (so disable the MAF). The LTFT histos are built in for that. Then, re-enable the MAF and start over using the MAF table (MAF Calibration/airflow vs frequency). You will need to adapt the MAF AFR Error histo to display LTFTs instead of AFR error. Keep in mind that the MAF is the primary airflow meter so getting the VE spot on will have little effect after you re-enable the MAF.

[jakebdb56]

I see, this kinda sucks since I can't really disable MAF on my truck b/c the IAT sensor is in the MAF

[jakebdb56]

btw, the truck ran pretty good. spun the tires a little when unexpected lol. here's a few logs, I think the 2nd and 4th one I entered PE a couple of times.

[5_Liter_Eater]

Just set MAF Fail Freq to 0 in the airflow engine diags and set P0103 to MIL on first error. This disables the MAF (but not the IAT).

Glad to hear it seems like it's putting more power to the ground.

[jakebdb56]

so will it be safe to drive around with the MAF disabled? even if I enter PE?

[5_Liter_Eater]

You look like you're running lean to me (by looking at the narrow band O2's under WOT). Narrow bands are not accurate for WOT tuning but typically I like to see ~890mV or higher and you are more like 820-830.

[5_Liter_Eater]

so will it be safe to drive around with the MAF disabled? even if I enter PE?

I'd avoid PE since it won't help you in tuning. I don't know if I would say "safe". If your VE is way off and you go into open loop/PE you may not be getting enough fuel.

[jakebdb56]

so maybe I should up the PE EQ ratio? for the lean-ness

[5_Liter_Eater]

Until you can get the WB on it to see what is really happening that is not a bad idea.