vuss

[bensvuss]

Hi guys, no one has an oppinion about timing in an LS1?

Ben.

[bensvuss]

Maybe I should revert back to my old timing table? I must have made some errors, for no-one to have an oppinion about my timing table?:

[Arron]

It looks like you are getting some kr with the raised timing at around 2400-2800rpm at 0.60 g/cyl and up.
I know not that many have access to a dyno but that is a good place to sort out timing , you can see where you have maximum torque with the minimum amount of timing .

This post by EC_Tune may interest you link

[bensvuss]

Hi guys, Arron thanks for your input. The link in extremely valuable, as its short and sweet and puts things down to black and white. Im now trying to setup a config for the scanner to try to manipulate my timing more accuratly.

I have also been working on my A4's, I have a stock standard box which im now running line pressure from 27 and 30 what "psi"? not to sure, and a steady incline up to 96.

It now has a good firm shift, Does anyone run similar pressure, or have had any issues with to much shift pressure?

I wouldn't mind increasing mine further.

Thanks guys, Ben.

[TiredGXP]

Ben:

Here's an image of the histo I was talking about. You probably want to add at least 1 decimal place to the sensor reading.

Attachment 10293

[bensvuss]

Hi guys (AL), hope that you are having a good weekend. I have just had a play with my tune using my now smoothed and slightly reduced timing from 1200 to 1800, as it was seeing abit of knock.

I have loaded the new commanded AFR histo as histo 8, (thanks AL), and im alittle unsure of how to read the results. Does it mean that where im seeing AFR like 15's, 16 and 17 between 2000rpm and 2800rpm this is the lean cruise cells and therefore the cells that I shouldnt alter the timing on.

Can anyone help me desypher my scan?

Only got KR of 1 so will make change and smoothe.

My A4's are good now im running an average of 40 pound preasure in the low cells through to 96 up top. Does anyone run more preasure up top like 120 or something on a standard box?

I would love some input about this, form someone who has done it. "Yay or nay"?

Cheers guys, I will attatch a snapshot of my scan incase you dont have my custom PIDS.

Thanks Ben.

[TiredGXP]

Ben

I suggest that you compare the histo to your EQ ratio subtractor table.

This is what that table looked like in the tune you posted way back in post#7:
Attachment 10387

Note that these values are subtracted from your EQ ratio - translates into AFR's of from 15.3 to 17.1 in the cells that have values. The larger the number to be subtracted, the leaner the engine runs for that cell.

[bensvuss]

Hi Al, thanks for your help. My lean cruise settings are the same as they are in the thumb nail. This is the stock lean cruise settings.

Im sorry to be so thick, but im not really understanding things correctly, the water is quite muddy for me today.

Can you try to fill me in abit more, Ben.

[bensvuss]

Hi guys, I have been busy working on my other toy. My VK WGN street machine, so havent been tuning much and my last set up is pretty well spot on now. But will be playing with it again soon as Im going to put in some aftermarket valve springs, for some added performance.

But my mate has owned a moded Gen 3 wgn with all the mods, and a very stylish harrop blower as a hat which has had the boost increased to 12psi.
It makes 290kw at the wheels and pulls like a mule. It has had alot of so called tuners play with it in the past and I was gob smacked when my stock gen3 with my tune blew his mind. He instantly demand ed that I licence his car.

I have made a few changes to it and he loves it, but he is getting high intake temps, all the time even in 15* night temps. It runs a larger than factory harrop intercooler and the IAT sensor is in the manifold. Which he is getting 5 degrees of knock from like 3800 to 6800 and is rough.

I could and have already suggested the crude right ontop of the radiator approach that i have on my car, and to be honest is crude but fuck it works my car never gets heat soak even in 40*. But he would like to try another approach. Does anyone have any ideas?

I have found that when you get your car generically tuned you dont get the performance and the features that you have access to with VCM suite.

I will post the tune for any interested parties. This is a great performance car and we have alreay customised it emensely. I have not changed the AFR, beacuse it was set up on a dyno and looks really good, but it is rich up the deep end and in our quest for power he would like me to lean it out slightly in the top. Risky huch on a 9000 ++++ supercharged car.

Look forward to chattin soon, ben

[SSUte01]

Hi Ben,

The first thing I would say is that since it appears that the MAF has been failed or more than likely deleted is that you really need to get a 2 Bar MAP sensor and start from scratch with a 2 Bar SD tune. As it stands currently the PCM has no way of knowing it has exceeded atmo pressure and the extra fuel I imagine is coming from the 10.4 commanded AFR. This is IMO is hack methodology and will end up hurting something.

With regards to timing and IAT it has quite a lot of timing for a 12psi setup however I suspect the IAT spark 'would' pull most of this out however the IAT SPark Mult is zeroed from about 4000rpm and up and since you would be on the Low Octane table 20+ through the mid range is too much timing IMO (but it could work but I doubt it) and 16ish at the top end is still fairly high for that setup. This is likely the reason for the knock which is not good at all, I cannot see how fueling can be accurate either but I suppose it could be.

The IAT needs to be where it is as the blower is heating the air going into the engine so this needs to be measured so I would try leaving it where it is to start with at least.

Once you blokes setup it up correctly 2 Bar SD and weave your tuning wand I think you will see more like ~330-350rwkW @ 12psi.

What fuel system does it run?

Hope the ute is running well

[bensvuss]

Hi guys, thanks luke. I was wondering if the two bar map sensor is just a plug in replacement, and then wheather or not you can alter the opperating system to suit and just add the credits to the 1 bar?

How many credits does it take to do a 2 bar?

Thanks guys cheers ben.

[bensvuss]

Hi guys, I havent really changed my tune in any way because it is quite close to were I want it (correction wanted it) but for the last week, when cruise is on and the peddle is applied it was back firing. Now every time I go wot from around 3000rpm shes back firing, untill throttle is released. This is not good in a car that loves to got wot, with the tail out. I have a current scan, can someone take a look and see if there was something a scew.

Thanks guys cheers ben

[bensvuss]

Hi guys is there something wrong with my question?

Cheers ben.

[Arron]

Check out your plug leads and plugs , perhaps fuel filter . If the tune or conditions haven't changed i would guess the car should be going the same . A quick look for air leaks on the intake side couldn't hurt either .

[bensvuss]

Hi Aaron, thanks for your input. I have started tyhe elimination process. I have replaced plugs because the other set orthough not old are white. So for clarity I replaced them, did a quick run at wot and It appears to be lean. I did my ve table in summer, however I have a wideband installed all the time so I will and have been going back over my table. Did you think that it was lean?

I suppose a new fuel filter wouldnt be a bad idea, air intake is sealed up like a drum.

I dont have any stfts or ltfts active in my tune.

Definatly problems with my ve fueling, I have now attached a thumb nail of my afr error and my actual afr, it tells the story.

Thanks Aaron, cheers ben