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Thread: $100 to anyone who can give me the right.....

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    $100 to anyone who can give me the right.....

    I will give $100 to anyone who can tell me the right answer to fix my car. You need to know something I will tell you. I have just spent over 10 hours in dealership with tech 2 and numerous scanning equipment and they can not figure it out..... Here is what is wrong. Car will not start. It cranks but will not fire.

    It is getting spark, It has the correct compression, it is getting fuel. All of which I first hand watched get checked. All grounds are in place all fuses are good, all relays are good. I have 2 computers both which do not change anything. This car ran and drove. I turned it off and now it will not start.

    There is gas in the tank, the fuel rail shows 58lbs of pressure. There are no check engine lights other then a u1000 and u1016 with I have read mean absolutly nothing.

    The Crank and cam Sensor have both been checked. Both are is good working order and are sending the correct signals

    I am attaching the file. If there is anything that you need to know to help try and diagnose the problem I will be checking frequently to find out what is the problem. Even if it sounds off the wall I will try it. I am desperate.

    This is not a game $100 to whoever diagnoses my problem.

    Here is my file. Good luck.
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system

  2. #2
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    Injector pules?

    Have they actually put a scope on the injector and verified the PCM is pulsing them? Also, have they checked to see if there is power to the injectors? There are 2 fueses (I believe) that supply power tot he injectors.

    I'll look at some wiring diagrams after dinner and get back to ya.
    -Eddie

    1998 GTP - 3.4 [3.2] [3.0] MPS - custom CAI - F.1 Ram Air hood - XP Cam - Ported Heads - 1.84/1.60 Si valves - 1.6 HS Roller Rockers - 72mm Ported TB - LQ4 MAF - 42.5# Lucas Injectors - Pacesetters
    1/4 PB - 13.025 @ 106.81 MPH w/ 2.069 60'
    2021 Chevrolet Colorado 2.8 Baby Duramax

  3. #3
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    I'd put my money on no fuel injector pulse. Either a bad fuse or a bad ground are a definite possibility. How did you verify fuel pressure and spark? Did you look at the regulator or a gauge on the end of the rail? If just the reg i'd check the end of the rail.

  4. #4
    Senior Tuner Russ K's Avatar
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    First off, are you using a 2 bar map sensor with a 1 bar OS? If your tuning in SD, just zeroing the Maf Calibration table isn't going to put the car in SD mode. You need to set the Maf Fail High to 0 Hz, or unplug the Maf sensor.

    Also if you have a boost referenced pressure regulator, the IFR table should be flat.

    Russ Kemp

  5. #5
    Potential Tuner
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    My cousin had a '99 silverado that did something similar to this one time. He turned it off, went into store, and when he came back out it wouldn't start.

    Had spark and fuel pressure but wouldn't start.

    Turned out to be something with the security system disabling the injectors.

  6. #6
    Tuner Dozer's Avatar
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    I looked at your tune and under System/ General/ Security / VATS and it is set to None. I looked up other vehicles like yours in the repository and the VATS are set to PWM.

  7. #7
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    That's kinda where I was going with this (VATS) You can (sometimes) reset the VATS by leaving the key on for 10 minutes without starting.

    The most common problem is the lock cylinder wires break at the cylinder. It's pretty easy to check this. If you have a DVOM, read the resistance in the key (on either side of the pellet) and write it down. Unplug the BCM, and ohm out the wires coming from the lock cylinder with the key in the cylinder. The wires should be white with a black tracer (stripe) (BCM terminal D7) and purple with a white tracer (BCM Terminal C2). Rotate the key and see if the resistance changes. If it does, or if it tests open, this is your problem.
    -Eddie

    1998 GTP - 3.4 [3.2] [3.0] MPS - custom CAI - F.1 Ram Air hood - XP Cam - Ported Heads - 1.84/1.60 Si valves - 1.6 HS Roller Rockers - 72mm Ported TB - LQ4 MAF - 42.5# Lucas Injectors - Pacesetters
    1/4 PB - 13.025 @ 106.81 MPH w/ 2.069 60'
    2021 Chevrolet Colorado 2.8 Baby Duramax

  8. #8
    looking at your last log you had injpw and some timing so the thing should fire. Any of the PCM based fuel cuts will show an injpw of 0. Things like VATS and others stuff will initially fire the engine then die a second later.

    you need to down and dirty on a scope with your injectors and plugs to see if you physically have pulsing at the injectors and spark at the plugs. If you don't then it's likely a wiring issue. also something to check is the phasing of the spark and injection, things like crank reluctor wheel problems and cam sensor gremlins are not unheard of.

    good luck!
    I count sheep in hex...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russ K
    First off, are you using a 2 bar map sensor with a 1 bar OS? If your tuning in SD, just zeroing the Maf Calibration table isn't going to put the car in SD mode. You need to set the Maf Fail High to 0 Hz, or unplug the Maf sensor.

    Also if you have a boost referenced pressure regulator, the IFR table should be flat.

    Russ Kemp
    I think Russ hit it on the head, I didn't notice(in your other thread) you were running a 2 bar map sensor, but basically with your maf table your saying to not deliver any fuel but then you haven't failed the maf & you've set your codes so they won't even throw a maf code until it gets a second error, so its a combination of things but your leaving out alot of info ie do you have a maf ON the vehicle? If so have you tried starting the vehicle WITH the maf on & your maf table populated with something other than 0's?

    And thats all not mentioning the fact that your trying to run a 2 bar map on a 1 bar operating system without doing the work involved to do so.
    Last edited by Bill@HPTuners; 12-20-2007 at 09:07 PM.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all of the replies, To answer some questions!

    Their is no Maf on the car currently. I have run the car the way it is now. Without the maf. I am not sure why that would matter now. But I am no expert.

    Yes I am running a 2 bar map on 1 bar os. Because I have tried 2 bar already and that was 2 credits that I would have liked to use. The 2 bar did not change anything. I will spend another 2 credits though and try it.

    I have checked the injectors with a noid light, I have checked that the spark plugs are getting spark. The techs had a thing that they plugged into the end of the wire and it would spark. We then pulled a plug out and attached it to the fire and it fired also.

    I am going to upload a 2 bar map to it now and try that and see if there is anything that changes
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system

  11. #11
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    Just loading a 2 bar map file wont do much good unless you've made the correct changes to the dtcs & such.

    -Bill
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  12. #12
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    Haev you checked for any error codes thrown on the scanner after cranking?

  13. #13
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    yes the only codes that throw are the ones posted in the first thread. I did follow the changes in the help file when I loaded my sd tune and that still did not help.
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system

  14. #14
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    If you don't throw the p0102 code your not going into SD mode.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to be done in two weeks...

    A wise man once said "google it"

  15. #15
    Tuning Addict WS6FirebirdTA00's Avatar
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    Just for the hell of it (assuming no tuning issues) try to swap two relays under the hood. I can't remember the name of the second on (might be ignition) but it is right next to the starter relay. Swap the two (the starter relay and the one right beside it) and try to run the car.

    Once again, this assumes your tune is not causing the issue and this just happened out of the blue.
    Sulski Performance Tuning
    2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
    2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russ K
    First off, are you using a 2 bar map sensor with a 1 bar OS? If your tuning in SD, just zeroing the Maf Calibration table isn't going to put the car in SD mode. You need to set the Maf Fail High to 0 Hz, or unplug the Maf sensor.

    Also if you have a boost referenced pressure regulator, the IFR table should be flat.

    Russ Kemp

    Ok, I followed the help file for the 2 bar again, I also checked to make sure that the maf cal is at 0, maf fail high is at 0 maf is unpluged the IFR table is a 1.000 all the way across
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system

  17. #17
    Tuning Addict WS6FirebirdTA00's Avatar
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    yeah just saw in your tune you did not fail the MAF sensor. It should still throw the code if it is unplugged though and run, I would think.

    Did you do a write entire on the tune, when going to the tune that worked? Were the same parts on the car? If nothing has changed, I would give what I said 2 posts back a shot.
    Sulski Performance Tuning
    2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
    2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
    Just for the hell of it (assuming no tuning issues) try to swap two relays under the hood. I can't remember the name of the second on (might be ignition) but it is right next to the starter relay. Swap the two (the starter relay and the one right beside it) and try to run the car.

    Once again, this assumes your tune is not causing the issue and this just happened out of the blue.

    I did try that it did not work. I swapped the ignition with the starter. Starter still works but the car still will not start
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system

  19. #19
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    I am trying it now well see what happens
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system

  20. #20
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    Unhappy

    here is the newest tune and scan that I tried.
    99 T/A-TH400-d1sc w/4.0 pulley-FMIC-60lb injectors-3500 stall-Meth-Typhoon Intake-2 bar MAP-boost activated fuel pressure regulator-rail pressure 55psi-return system