***posted in the wrong thread***
***posted in the wrong thread***
Last edited by gman4dx266; 04-16-2008 at 10:30 PM.
Any luck with this?
I think it is just the gearing (4L80E: 1st gear = 2.48, 32" tall tires, 3.73 gears and about 6000lbs). On my truck from a dead stop it will do the same. But if I back up slightly then put it in drive and nail (backing out of my driveway, for example), it will light them up a good amount. Mind you this is not accomplished by quickly changing from reverse to forward and nailing it while the truck is still rolling backwards, I let it stop and normally put it in drive, then nail it. That is the only way I can get it to light them up, besides taking a turn at WOT from a dead stop.
BTW: I have TM fully disabled and no signs of any kind of TM butting in.
I thought 1st was even taller than that, 12secSS? I thought it was like 2.75 or 2.78? Either way, I get it.
Anyways, I dont understand your method...What difference does it make with you just having backed up? You're still going from a dead stop.
And the gearing stuff cant be the problem...other 1500HD's can do it fine, just some fall on their face. I dont get it?
Nope. It is the same trans as the TH400, but with overdrive.Originally Posted by gman4dx266
That is what I was saying, I don't get it either.On a non-dry surface, I can power brake it and light them up though.
The only ones I have seen do burnouts are 4L60E equipped. My neighbor has a factory stock 2002 1500HD, and it does the same as mine, but only a brief tire spin.
Yeah I knew it was a turbo400, but for some reason i thought you were wrong on the gearing. Thats neither here nor there though.Nope. It is the same trans as the TH400, but with overdrive.
That is what I was saying, I don't get it either.
The only ones I have seen do burnouts are 4L60E equipped. My neighbor has a factory stock 2002 1500HD, and it does the same as mine, but only a brief tire spin.
There must be -something- in there that engages when you put it in drive. Im actually at a wifi hotspot now, so ill try that backup trick once i pull out of here. I too can do good on a wet surface, like some of those old ground up seashell roads we have down here...oooo boy! haha
Around here, we have a lot of HD trucks, 15, 25 and quite a few 35's as well. Not too many 1500HD's though since those were short lived compared to others, but the 25's that ive went up against, ive gotten spanked as far as peeling out. And i know those have 4L80's, since its really the same truck. The one guy I know, had actually bought an aftermarket ring and pinion and went down in gearing (actually up in gearing, i know) to a 3.23 because of mpg, and he STILL got me. So to all those who say its my 3.73's...meh
Thanks 12secSS
EDIT: Tried the backup-stop-pedal to the floor trick a bunch of times this morning and it doesn't seem to work for me. I *could* do a neutral drop or a reverse-to-drive shift, but I blow up transmisisons as it is, and I dont do senseless BS like that anyways. What year did you says yours was, 12secSS?
This thing has the ponies, It just doesnt get going too good. I have an 8.11 0-60. Im guessing thats pretty good for a big heavy mofo of a truck?
Last edited by gman4dx266; 04-14-2008 at 02:18 PM.
this might sound like the obvious, but did u press the traction control button for longer then 10secs? It should disable the stabilitrak..
Another option I can say is deleteing all values in the TCS. I remember taking my envoy to the dyno and even with the traction switched off it was still kicking in till I removed all traction control
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Trailblazin:
I've got an even simpler answer than you were anticipating from me: I dont have TCS or Stabilitrak...Only controls I got to play with that are powertrain related are the gas, brake, gearshift and the towhaul button.
Any other thoughts? lol
Have you tried coming up about 200-300 RPM over idle and mashing the gas?
How can I do that? If i give it a bit of gas to bring the revs up, i start moving. And like i said before, brake torquing doesn't work either, so that is out.
I may try something different to test; Using the vcm controls, under the trans section>TCC pwm...set that to something to where the motor almost wants to stall out...then mash the gas and click the 'large increment increase' button at the same time for 100%. It would be hard on the tcc but im only doing it one time.
I wonder if I can go complain to my local Chevrolet dealership. Tell them the truck has no balls and that Im considering switching to a ford soley based on that peelout factor. We'll see what comes of that haha. Course those guys that work in the service dept are usually just drones that go step by step thru the chilton manual.
My 05 K25 was a burnoutless wonder too. Then I found the hidden traction control with the HP and I can now leave senseless clouds of rubber John Force would be proud of when powerbraking it. It still will not even chirp the tires just flooring it from a stop on dry pavement and I have 4.10 gears. Just not enough torque to spin that way. Dunno if your truck has the same hidden traction control as mine or not and I can't look at your cal file (or post mine) on this computer because I lost my application key before I unlocked the HP here...
Damn dude, where the hell was that hidden thing at? TELL MEEE!!! lol
Kinda like brake torquing but don't come up hard on the converter, just 2-300 RPM. then let off the brake and mash the gas to the floor.
When I run my V6 Firebird at the track, If I leave at a dead idle, The timing retards about 14.5 degrees and then advances. The car will just turn the tires a bit. BUT if I come up on the converter to about 1100 RPM ( idle is 775-800) that is well below the stall of the converter and leave like I said above, No more dip in the timing and the car will spin through first gear. The timing dip is still there, but it's there when I bring the RPM up to 1100, not when I leave.
Your tip actual helped a very VERY small amount. I stalled up to about 1300, and jumped on it, and it slipped one wheel about 2 turns or so, locked in, and slipped the other wheel about 1 or 2 revolutions and then took off like a 3 cylinder geo prism like is usually does.
Haha. Im talking about the traction control spark retard vs. rpm and agressive retard vs. rpm tables in the torque management general section.
It was snowing the day I zeroed the tables out. I was running around in 4hi and able to barely spin all 4 in 1st gear and there was minimal drama. After I zeroed the table, it would roast all 4 tires and send snow rooster tails 100 feet behind the truck as it torque steered across 3 lanes. When it dried out again, I discovered I could now do actual burnouts in 2hi on dry pavement with some brake torque.
Hey,
Well, Ive got Bill@HPT looking at my file for another problem I've been having (tcc wont stay locked when coasting) maybe i can get him to look into this as well.Hey,
I've got both those set to 0. Next suggestion?Haha. Im talking about the traction control spark retard vs. rpm and agressive retard vs. rpm tables in the torque management general section.
It was snowing the day I zeroed the tables out. I was running around in 4hi and able to barely spin all 4 in 1st gear and there was minimal drama. After I zeroed the table, it would roast all 4 tires and send snow rooster tails 100 feet behind the truck as it torque steered across 3 lanes. When it dried out again, I discovered I could now do actual burnouts in 2hi on dry pavement with some brake torque.
(truck didnt have TCS to begin with, so it really shouldnt make a difference, but they're still set to zero, nonetheless.)
Isn't the TCC supposed to unlock when coasting when left in OD? So you don't engine brake. If it unlocks while your cruising then it would be a problem.
I want it to stay locked, and none of other peoples settings will work to keep it locked on decel. But thats another thread you can post in if you feel like it. Its annoying and heats up my atf when i have to get back in the gas and have it relock all the time.
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