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Thread: What changes needed for 4000 Stall?

  1. #1
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    What changes needed for 4000 Stall?

    I have tried to search and look for as much information as I can. What changes need to be made when a 4000 stall converter is put into a 2000 Firebird? Thanks in advance for the help?

  2. #2
    Tuner in Training CoolAid's Avatar
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    Just put one in a 06 GTO and would like to know also.

    Thanks.
    -SOLD- 1999 Pewter Metallic Camaro SS. LS1/M6. True Dual Full Exhaust/LS7 clutch/MGW/Lid/Poly/Self tune.
    -SOLD- 2006 Quicksilver Metallic GTO. LS2/A4. Cam/Exhaust/Stall. 11.74@116, 1.61 60ft +2,000 DA
    -SOLD- 2013 Arctic White Corvette LS3/M6. Stock. 12.5 @ 116, 2.01 60ft +2,000 DA

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Really not much... I've done yank pt4400's without doing anything to the trans stuff
    But you will most likely want to change the lockup speeds
    Maybe chang shift points to fit your feel a little better...

    I alway zero out the desired shift time table
    And I take the wot shift speed table and 0 the upshift speeds so that wot is all shift by rpm
    Makes it a lot more consistent

    You may want to play with the downshift speeds and rpm's as well to suit you driving needs
    -Scott -

  4. #4
    Tuner in Training CoolAid's Avatar
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    Im not sure I have a desired shift time table. 06 GTO, E40 PCM / 4L65E TCM. Im not seeing that table anywhere.
    -SOLD- 1999 Pewter Metallic Camaro SS. LS1/M6. True Dual Full Exhaust/LS7 clutch/MGW/Lid/Poly/Self tune.
    -SOLD- 2006 Quicksilver Metallic GTO. LS2/A4. Cam/Exhaust/Stall. 11.74@116, 1.61 60ft +2,000 DA
    -SOLD- 2013 Arctic White Corvette LS3/M6. Stock. 12.5 @ 116, 2.01 60ft +2,000 DA

  5. #5
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    It may not exist in all os's
    It's just something I always do in an ls1 PCM
    -Scott -

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer View Post
    Really not much... I've done yank pt4400's without doing anything to the trans stuff
    But you will most likely want to change the lockup speeds
    Maybe chang shift points to fit your feel a little better...

    I alway zero out the desired shift time table
    And I take the wot shift speed table and 0 the upshift speeds so that wot is all shift by rpm
    Makes it a lot more consistent

    You may want to play with the downshift speeds and rpm's as well to suit you driving needs
    When your talking about this are you just setting the tables 1-2,2-3,3-4 to 0 and going by shift rpm right? What about the downshift speeds. Im still stock on those and it needs some work just not sure what I want

  7. #7
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver2002ta View Post
    When your talking about this are you just setting the tables 1-2,2-3,3-4 to 0 and going by shift rpm right? What about the downshift speeds. Im still stock on those and it needs some work just not sure what I want
    yes...the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 upshift speed set to 0

    the downshift you have to figure out where you want it and put the MPH there...takes a little playing with...
    easiest thing is to plot your gear ratios in excel in a chart and then do some eyeball work to see where the MPH and RPM line up
    that way you can determine the MPH that is too low to hit it in the current gear so it will down shift

    but really...the majority of tranny stuff is all the feel of it to the end user..
    there is some science to it when it comes to making sure it doesnt want to upshift and downshift at the same spot....had that happen once cause I accidentally put in the wrong MPH....put in 44 instead of 34 or something like that...
    yeah...that was a stupid feeling...
    -Scott -

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer View Post
    yes...the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 upshift speed set to 0

    the downshift you have to figure out where you want it and put the MPH there...takes a little playing with...
    easiest thing is to plot your gear ratios in excel in a chart and then do some eyeball work to see where the MPH and RPM line up
    that way you can determine the MPH that is too low to hit it in the current gear so it will down shift

    but really...the majority of tranny stuff is all the feel of it to the end user..
    there is some science to it when it comes to making sure it doesnt want to upshift and downshift at the same spot....had that happen once cause I accidentally put in the wrong MPH....put in 44 instead of 34 or something like that...
    yeah...that was a stupid feeling...
    haha sweet I am going to 0 out those tables. I have the wot shift rpm set to 6800 and the fuel cutoff just a little after that. Ive been trying to figure out why the car wont go to 6800 after looking at my logs and tune its shifting at where the shift speed is set at

  9. #9
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    its a backwards table if you ask me...
    shift speed is where the shift is enabled at...
    then the RPM is where its supposed to shift...
    they could have done away with the upshift portion of that table and made it just downshift speeds only


    I also make my performance and hot tables the same as my normal one
    -Scott -

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer View Post
    its a backwards table if you ask me...
    shift speed is where the shift is enabled at...
    then the RPM is where its supposed to shift...
    they could have done away with the upshift portion of that table and made it just downshift speeds only


    I also make my performance and hot tables the same as my normal one
    Sweet. Thanks for the clarification on that I am gonna go try that here in a little bit. I guess I just need to figure out my downshift speeds with the 4.11's and see what the car likes

  11. #11
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    heres a quickie little excel sheet I threw together to help you visualize for the downshift points...
    Last edited by S2H; 02-16-2009 at 08:42 PM. Reason: made a change to the worksheet
    -Scott -